The stuff I bought wasn't 200x, I just slap a teaspoon into a half-gallon once a week. figure it's better than nothing. After I get through this bag, I'll pay more attention when I order...Do you adjust your Aloe amount?
The stuff I bought wasn't 200x, I just slap a teaspoon into a half-gallon once a week. figure it's better than nothing. After I get through this bag, I'll pay more attention when I order...Do you adjust your Aloe amount?
Generally the soil temp will be 5-10 degrees F less than air temp, with a larger soil temp deficit directly proportional to the length of your night.I have some probe thermometers I use for cooking, but I gotta imagine at 20hrs a day lights on, the soil approaches ambient. These are the tent temps over last 24h
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Generally the soil temp will be 5-10 degrees F less than air temp, with a larger soil temp deficit directly proportional to the length of your night.
With autos the best trick for battling low temps is running lights 24/0, especially when running low heat leds. It’s not what everyone wants to do, but it sure helps in the winter. In my experience, I have better results if I try to get the temps right, even at the cost of losing some humidity.
cheers
os
You want to add only dry things like amendments or mulch, don’t use food scraps or banana peels in your grow container. Fungus gnats and other unwanted pests will flock to your containers if you add food Scraps. Save that stuff for a worm bin or compost pile.Hey @MrOldBoy
Probably more suited to your other thread but... If I get my bigger LOS/SIP containers going, I'd like to consider adding earthworms. I do not have a bin (may or may not start one in the summer). Do you have to add any additional worm food to your SIPs while growing -- or is the organics already in there good enough? Just wondering if I have to throw some produce or something in there to keep 'em happy.
Part of the problem is I got a way roomier tent and only grow in 1/2 - 2/3 of it. That came with a bigger/6" filter/fan combo. I fear anything I try to do inside the tent will be short lived and exhausted outside pronto. The old 4x4 seemed to stay warmer.Generally the soil temp will be 5-10 degrees F less than air temp, with a larger soil temp deficit directly proportional to the length of your night.
With autos the best trick for battling low temps is running lights 24/0, especially when running low heat leds. It’s not what everyone wants to do, but it sure helps in the winter. In my experience, I have better results if I try to get the temps right, even at the cost of losing some humidity.
cheers
os
Fungus gnats and other unwanted pests will flock to your containers if you add food Scraps.
When plants are small, I don’t worry about air exchange much. A little passive exchange is usually plenty. With living soil grows, you get plenty of co2 for small plants from the soil itself. This makes it easier to keep temps up and raise humidity at the same time. That first month to 5 weeks is when all the temps being high enough is most beneficial. After that, going to option 6 is the way I would go. You prob don’t need a carbon filter prior to that anyway. I never vent to outside, it’s just to damn cold and just doesn’t really work out.Part of the problem is I got a way roomier tent and only grow in 1/2 - 2/3 of it. That came with a bigger/6" filter/fan combo. I fear anything I try to do inside the tent will be short lived and exhausted outside pronto. The old 4x4 seemed to stay warmer.
Considering:
1. partially closing vents all around the house to force more heat downstairs. It's unfinished though and all the concrete is probably a losing battle
2. getting an oil heater for inside the tent and trying it
3. going back to 4" exhaust to slow down exhaust
4. running 24/0, but the purples are pretty
5. getting a couple of those 4' heat mats to run under the containers (pita, $$$, and would create the inverse condition. soil temp >> air temp)
6. exhausting the tent inside the basement instead of outside, would maybe get me a point or two raising ambient while lights on.
7. getting rid of the cool mist ultrasonic, replacing with a pan of water+aquarium heater on a cycle timer.
I'm going to try setting up #3, 6, and 7 this weekend and run it a week to see.
You want to add only dry things like amendments or mulch, don’t use food scraps or banana peels in your grow container. Fungus gnats and other unwanted pests will flock to your containers if you add food Scraps. Save that stuff for a worm bin or compost pile.
cheers
os
They are pretty easy to manage if you don’t feed em, and have a dry mulch layer on top of the soil.I'm starting to think that fungus gnats is a never-ending test of wills.
You should put a thermometer in a pot and see where you are at. I think you will be surprised at soil temp when growing in a basement.