twenty20 Twenty20 Mendocino 2021 Grow&show

[WildBill]

Do your plants show good fan fading by harvest? We have a fantastic Aussie grower here, Hecno, who's in the Bush and needs to make his own soils from scratch, and customize amending with supp's he can get.... He blows away most peeps using synthetics, apples-to-apples! Often, I marvel at how green and little fan-fade he get even by harvest, but his smoke is tops... We hear so much about how excess N can foul the smoke, it makes me wonder with organics, a booming soil herd (worms too) and his light tinkering that a better controlled release/cycling and (selective?) uptake by the plant is in play here, vs. synthetic right-now-available ions,...

Yeah, very little fan fade.
Even with all the bat doody and fish he adds, no N-tox comes about. With every thing he adds, I think the biggest key things in his soil building are time, worms and their work they do, microbes and their work and the humic and fulvic acids.
There's a balance there. Nutrients are there and available, by the work done by his helpers, for the plant to use. He could very well vary his additions during the "cooking time" and come up with very close results, but without those key parts, it just wouldn't be the same.



Oh yeah! I forgot his magical pond water!

 

[Waira]

I think a good amount of the nutrients are temporarily tied up in the living things, their cycling in and out of the soil and root zone is a sort of buffering, along with form/chemistry changes...recall that only very specific forms of nute ions can be taken in... It's there, but not all at once like synthetic stuff is. I think many nutes are taken up needed or not, and past a point the plant can't store it anymore (for those that they can I should say; micronute/immobile can't be stored, they get "locked" into place once taken in and metabolized)... Think sudden toxicity vs. slower cumulative uptake... This gets folks all the time, they feed, feed, things look OK, then one day the symptoms start even with no conc. changes...
Hec's soil is so freaking ALIVE it practically walks up to him and asks for seconds! ... I'm sure the worms have a subterranean shrine dedicated to him!

 

[Sour D]

Finally got a minute to get these started.
Strain: Durban Sunrise
Containers: DIY SIPs. 1- 5 gal, 1 -3 gal
Lights: Mars Hydro SP150
Soil: Coast of Maine Stonington
Compost: COM Lobster
Worm Castings: Uncle Jims and live worms.
Nutes: Home Grown Microbe Bokashi
After soil and compost is added, I top dress with

¼ cup Craft Blend, 1/8 cup Kashi, 19 grms dolomite, ½ cup alfalfa, ½ cup barly, 1 tbl azokashi​

03/08 Dropped 2 seeds in water, a little aloe and littler amount of peroxide.

03/09 Transferred seeds to damp unbleached coffee filter
03/11 Planted seeds in boxes---I make a small hole and fill with a seed starter mix.
Once seeds are planted, I add some barley straw mulch and spray it all down with EM1. Then add the cover.

 

[The^Dude]

Day 6 or 7 above dirt
The Great!
Coots mix cut with sphagnum
Soil moistened with ro + a small amount of fulpower fulvic/humic, or whatever I have in the spray bottle that day (always mixed super light)

I had them under my t5s, but I had grabbed the wrong one which has a good bulb and a goofy bulb, so they got a little off center. I’m not worried, main stem will strengthen eventually. Otherwise these girls are happy as can be, two in this location and one in another room and they’re still super uniform and growing at the same pace. Moved these two under the big light today, that room is warmer and more humid. They’re 42 inches from that light, I’ll be monitoring their transition.

 

[hope2grow]

Couple of quickies.. day 3.. Trizzlers 1..

And 2..

Beautiful.

 

[bushmasterar15]

shit I'm concerned you have too much light, literally... like exceeding that max DLI too much! What's the schedule? I would bet you could run 16/8 with no ill effect with 4 in 4x4... know anybody with a PAR meter? I guess you don't need one since FTG has a footprint PPFD graph already for this.... Damn, I'm stoked, wish I could buy a second and retire the AutoCOB's altogether...

I was running 19/5 with the 2 boards, then went back to 18/6 after all boards were blasting the light. But you are right I could probably cut it back even more. I wish I had my own PAR meter but you know I try to keep everything I run on the KISS style. We've watched to many chase problems once they start messing with adjustments.

 

[Twenty20 Adam]

Wow, that sounds a lot better than in the past for such products available to the general public! As usual, the really good stuff lags or never get to the public...
That's the crux isn't it, the breakdown rate...and the factors that mediate it. Adam, do you know if it's much affected by soil microbe activity? I'm very interested in learning how the breakdown rate works to stay fairly consistent in variable conditions, and with the soil herd munching (potentially?) at it!



Do your plants show good fan fading by harvest? We have a fantastic Aussie grower here, Hecno, who's in the Bush and needs to make his own soils from scratch, and customize amending with supp's he can get.... He blows away most peeps using synthetics, apples-to-apples! Often, I marvel at how green and little fan-fade he get even by harvest, but his smoke is tops... We hear so much about how excess N can foul the smoke, it makes me wonder with organics, a booming soil herd (worms too) and his light tinkering that a better controlled release/cycling and (selective?) uptake by the plant is in play here, vs. synthetic right-now-available ions,...
I'll look into the Blue Ocean stuff, or is that commercial only?
...yes, I've heard about that issue with certain metal elements triggering false alarms! What a PITA, you'd think they would be able to verify the sourcing and get exemptions. I understand the limitations of the equipment though, just hate it when dumb things like this happen!
Just recently I was looking to try a new kelp extract, and found one made of several kelp species instead of just good ol' Ascophylum nodosum: Clean Kelp by Bloom City.... looking for a better mix of hormones in it, as I use it mainly on the orchids and stressed out plants...
Do you guys do foliars, and/or soil drenching with the kelp?

The Blue Ocean is definitely a hot mix. That’s why we like it. We can correct nutrient issues in real-time as apposed to waiting for 2-week lags and consequently over-correcting. You can also control the release rate substantially by applying as dry pellets (slow release) or soaking briefly and top dressing as a sludge (fast release). Dollar for dollar (price per elemental nutrients) I don’t think you can hardly beat the price compared to other OMRI products. We use it by the 50lb bag and many other local farms do as well. It is a Sparetime product and should be available nation wide.
Concerning osmocote, we mix near the high end for mature plant transplanting and near the low end (50ml/1.5cf) for starting seedlings. The auto flowers love it and grow like crazy. You are correct, the wild card is climate, soil moisture. It works great in our particular setup but the same formula may not work so good for others. Concerning fade, it really depends on the pot size we use. Larger pots 3-5 gal will get a plant through the entire cycle with very little fade. 5 in squares and 1 gallon pots are tough to keep green at the end. It's also largely strain dependent as well.....another wild card. Producing seeds requires different fertilizer inputs and is generally harder on the plants if they get super pollinated.

 

[Twenty20 Adam]

Finally got a minute to get these started.
Strain: Durban Sunrise
Containers: DIY SIPs. 1- 5 gal, 1 -3 gal
Lights: Mars Hydro SP150
Soil: Coast of Maine Stonington
Compost: COM Lobster
Worm Castings: Uncle Jims and live worms.
Nutes: Home Grown Microbe Bokashi
After soil and compost is added, I top dress with

¼ cup Craft Blend, 1/8 cup Kashi, 19 grms dolomite, ½ cup alfalfa, ½ cup barly, 1 tbl azokashi​

03/08 Dropped 2 seeds in water, a little aloe and littler amount of peroxide.


03/09 Transferred seeds to damp unbleached coffee filter
03/11 Planted seeds in boxes---I make a small hole and fill with a seed starter mix.
Once seeds are planted, I add some barley straw mulch and spray it all down with EM1. Then add the cover.

View attachment 1295881View attachment 1295882

Nice pics. Wow I'm impressed with you guys and your custom organic blends. I bet you grow some fine smoke!

 

[idiopathic neuropathy]

TRIZZLERS 2 plants & WHISKEY ZULU 2 plants
Born 2/28/21
End of week 2
***Note-the first picture below(trizzlers)-this germinated seed had a small black spot on the tap root-I have not encountered this before with any seeds I have grown. The seedling is rather short. I'm watching to see how it develops. If anyone has experienced this before please share your thoughts if you'ld like. You can p.m. me so not to tie up this thread.

 

[Waira]

yup, @Waira has finally found sumbody that speakz his own language ppp

Hey somebody has to ask the tough questions! ....... here's me brown eye winkin' at ya

Finally got a minute to get these started.
Strain: Durban Sunrise

very nice germ' pics SD

... and soil fizzing with Life!

The Blue Ocean is definitely a hot mix. That’s why we like it. We can correct nutrient issues in real-time as apposed to waiting for 2-week lags and consequently over-correcting. You can also control the release rate substantially by applying as dry pellets (slow release) or soaking briefly and top dressing as a sludge (fast release). Dollar for dollar (price per elemental nutrients) I don’t think you can hardly beat the price compared to other OMRI products. We use it by the 50lb bag and many other local farms do as well. It is a Sparetime product and should be available nation wide.
Concerning osmocote, we mix near the high end for mature plant transplanting and near the low end (50ml/1.5cf) for starting seedlings. The auto flowers love it and grow like crazy. You are correct, the wild card is climate, soil moisture. It works great in our particular setup but the same formula may not work so good for others. Concerning fade, it really depends on the pot size we use. Larger pots 3-5 gal will get a plant through the entire cycle with very little fade. 5 in squares and 1 gallon pots are tough to keep green at the end. It's also largely strain dependent as well.....another wild card. Producing seeds requires different fertilizer inputs and is generally harder on the plants if they get super pollinated.

I think that's one of the more difficult things about working with organics when you're low down on the learning curve,.. how to deal with nute hiccups quickly= ...thanks for that tip!
....it kills me that so many great products are N/A to the public in reasonable amounts .... Last year I saw a Podcast from KIS featuring BioWorks/BotryStop anti-fungal bio-agent. I wrote them to see if it's available to private personal growers, and it's not unless you want 6 bloody pounds of it! But I plead my case, and they very kindly sent me a sample to try! ... I ran it to good effect IMO, despite some troubles with fires, ash-fall, and program spraying interruptions at the worst time possible (start of budding)... it still helped plenty, I think outright saved the Strawberry Amnesia which proved to be plain weak against mold... After some alarming sudden attacks, it stomped it down to a low level small spot chase here and there, easily spotted and excised....

I would really like to see that osmocote product tested here... looks just like with a "super soil", volume = more reserves... Do you mix it inand plant right away, or does it get some cooking time? I'm curious about how fast it starts to release for that critical early stage...
I've been interested in learning more about how those are made, the compounding, coating, nano-tech chemistry-?.... do you know if there's an equivalent available to individual growers? What's the brand name?