Top Half of Budding Plants Discoloration

I'm not sure about Diamond Nectar, I just use the base GH 3-part. One other thing I'm noticing is that the lightening looks like it might be from the lights being close...that sort of blotchy white pattern seems like it's more related to the light than something that's wrong in the root zone. Before you add any additives to the root zone, I'd consider your leaf temperatures. If your room temps are in the 60's, you're probably not in the ideal part of the vapor-pressure-deficit curve for that much light intensity, so what could be happening is an acute Mg deficiency only in those parts of the leaves that are most proximal to your light source, which is robust and close given your first post.

My point is that treating this issue in the root zone might do nothing, or create a further imbalance. Something about really high levels of light with low leaf temperatures seems to cause this bleaching effect closest to the lights, and it seems like it's become more prevalent with LED that don't throw off the huge amount of warmth that HID lights like HPS do.

There's a grower on another forum that has an absolute NASA-like grow setup, and he swears by 65%+ humidity and 82* F leaf temps. That sometimes means running a room around 85* since the leaves often get a ton of air movement from circulating fans in a controlled setup. The idea here is that with 82-83*F leaf temps, the plants are able to metabolize everything from the root zone more appropriately in that high-intensity lighting zone. If you go down into the 60's, certain processes shut down that then create the deficiencies you're seeing. Given that your plants appear very healthy outside that max-intensity light cone area, I'd suggest pursuing a more idealized environment before increasing the concentration of fertilizers added to the roots.

This is really tricky for small setups, and can get complicated fast.

Personally, I struggle with this mightily. My environment is crazy arid, so I run a humidifier outside my tent 24/7 and keep my house about 3* warmer on the thermostat than I would prefer, and that still doesn't really address the issue when the lights go off. I try to aim for 78-82*F and 65% humidity, but right now my flowering cabinet runs about 65* lights off, sometimes single-digit humidity levels. That creates its own set of problems, and if you look at my blog entries, you can see the effects of that in the leaf discoloration. I will also say, finishing flowers in cold, super-dry environments seems to create some of the frostiest, most potent weed I've ever seen, like, it's insane. It also cuts my yields by like 30-40%, so I really need to come up with a solution.
@low_and_slow Please point me to some scientific studies that support your LED light burn theories. My personal experience is that LEDs do not cause light burn unless the plant actually touches the lamp. I have Chilled Growcraft LEDs capable of 2200+ PPFD and my plants have grown within 3 inches of those lights with no burn.

IMPO the problem is nutrient based.

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@low_and_slow Please point me to some scientific studies that support your LED light burn theories. My personal experience is that LEDs do not cause light burn unless the plant actually touches the lamp. I have Chilled Growcraft LEDs capable of 2200+ PPFD and my plants have grown within 3 inches of those lights with no burn.

IMPO the problem is nutrient based.

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Not saying burn, you're right that the temperature of the lights is very cool and the tissue is likely not pyrolized unless they touch. What I'm saying is that the leaves experience an acute localized Mg deficiency because they are outside the DLI range given their VPD; the lower parts of the plant receive less DLI, and therefore don't suffer the way the tips do. Basically you're "over fertilizing" the leaves with light, relative to the other 8 cardinal parameters necessary for healthy plant growth. In that sense it might be nutrients in the root zone, but it could also be 7 other things.

CO2 insufficient.
Air movement insufficient.
RH out of range.
Temp out of range.
Water in root zone insufficient.
O2 in root zone insufficient.
Temp in root zone out of range.

My recommendation wasn't to not do what you said, but rather to consider that advice but the other parameters that are also out of the desired range, like the plant being in the mid-high 60's most of its life.
 
Also, are you following this thread correctly? You recommended like 3 different organic products when the OP said he's using GH Flora Trio...just a little confused why that was your recommendation...
 
Also, are you following this thread correctly? You recommended like 3 different organic products when the OP said he's using GH Flora Trio...just a little confused why that was your recommendation...
The Bio-stimulants (some organic some arguably not) would provide the fastest availability to the plant of the micro-nutrients it appears to be lacking. The foliar path is the quickest.

But............... I am not always sure so I looked again and I may have missed this "GH Flora Trio and all the trimmings. "?

@Zootown68 are you using all of these products in the expert program and according to the chart balance?

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The Bio-stimulants (some organic some arguably not) would provide the fastest availability to the plant of the micro-nutrients it appears to be lacking. The foliar path is the quickest.

But............... I am not always sure so I looked again and I may have missed this "GH Flora Trio and all the trimmings. "?

@Zootown68 are you using all of these products in the expert program and according to the chart balance?

View attachment 1291424
Yes I am @Mañ'O'Green. I just used the Microblast at normal dosage. That was the only change I did. Following the week 7/8 schedule presently to a T. I've raised temps to 75-78 and RH is 65 now. SER=35589]@Mañ'O'Green[/USER]
 
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Yes I am @Mañ'O'Green. I just used the Microblast at normal dosage. That was the only change I did. Following the week 7/8 schedule presently to a T. I've raised temps to 75-78 and RH is 65 now. SER=35589]@Mañ'O'Green[/USER]
Ok so you mixed all of these into X amount of RO water and got 370 PPM? Are you using precisely 50% of each? How do you maintain the balance.

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@Mañ'O'Green the feed you posted two above, week nine. I mix all of the nutes into a gallon of RO Water using syringes (diff one for each nutrient), then I fill a 2 gallon Igloo water dispenser about 3/4 way with RO water and pour about half the gallon of mixed nutes into the RO water till I get to 400 ppm. Then I pH the Igloo feed water to 5.8-6.0. That gives me enough feed for the day watering to 20% runoff with my three plants. Both the Igloo and the remaining nutes in the gallon have air bubblers running in them all the time.
 
Air bubblers can shift the pH a surprising amount from when you mix nutes, do you ever recheck the pH after a while?
 
Air bubblers can shift the pH a surprising amount from when you mix nutes, do you ever recheck the pH after a while?

Hiya. I do. I check it again before each fertigation and adjust as needed. And I turn off the bubbler each time before checking because it really does freak out the readings.
 
@Zootown68 It sounds like very skillful nutrient mixing and feeding. Based on this new information You should not be having this problem.

I do not see how that 400PPM can be too much so we need to look at not enough or out of balance. Do any of your products have chrystals on the bottom of the bottles? If the elements have precipitated out of solution they will no longer mix properly. This is a long shot but used to happen regularly with DynaGro as it aged.

If all of your bottles of nutrients seem ok then up the PPM by 100 to 500 PPM. I think you are a little too soon for week nine and you should run week 8 again.

Post some new pictures please!
 
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