Stinking whole flat Help

[draxcel]

Tag me anytime GrowBro. I am happy to help. I do not use carbohydrates in hydro until the last two weeks before harvest. I use AN Bud Candy one time only two weeks before harvest and molasses one week before harvest. This improved the terpene profile.

In soil molasses is going to feed the microbes and they will multiply like crazy. It is this big increase in microbe population that can cause an imbalance in the nutrients available to the plant. Recharge and other products like it can do the same thing if used at the wrong time. I would only add molasses in late flower and then not too often.

Sulfer is an important element needed for plant growth. Sulfur is a natural occurring element in molasses. The amount here is not a problem. Sulfured molasses is when the sugar cane is treated with sulfur to prevent spoilage while being stockpiled for processing. Sulfured molasses is mostly used for animal feed. The bottle will plainly state on the front if it has been sulfured. Most of what you can buy for human consumption will have been made with fresh sugar cane.

Thank you so much,I don't know how to Say Thank you anymore...really.
Would you mind some pictures of my sick plant?
I think adding Molasses triggered something bad that week when I mixed It with nutes...

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thank you so much,I don't know how to Say Thank you anymore...really.
Would you mind some pictures of my sick plant?
I think adding Molasses triggered something bad that week when I mixed It with nutes...

Snap away........... Natural light 5000K turn off the grow lights. I have some errands to run but will look when i get back.

 

[draxcel]

Snap away........... Natural light 5000K turn off the grow lights. I have some errands to run but will look when i get back.

Here we go:
NUTES:Biobizz all line except for Calmag that I Fed twice during week 3 or 2.
Day:37-38
RoyalQueen Green gelato auto.
Soil:Lightmix and One handful of work humus plagron.
Used:molasse once/twice 1ml per liter
Light:lumatek 200 watt attis on 80% 35-37 cm away
Schedule:24/0 to keep humidity 60-55 and temp 24° C


The issue:It started with very weird Orange like rust gigantic patches,one leaf totally became orange and crispy and wrapped on itself,other leaves showed Orange to pinkish broad patches,and hammered veins so I did only water for one week.Followed the biobizz schedule by half or full dose from start.

Then,She has not grown a lot and stopped,started flowering and showing those little nectrotic spots and recently,started yellowing at TOP LEAVES,showing those purpleing from the tip.
Very weird.
Ph: on check,I put 6,4-5 and It Runoff 6,4-3
Ppm:I don't use Them anymore,very misleading.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

You have a Phosphorous problem. The tough part is that lock-outs look exactly like deficiencies.

The plant is really green so it does not look hungry. It looks a bit nitrogen rich.

So because Ca locks out P. You added Cal-Mag just before the symptoms Light mix is made with Dolomite Lime which provides a steady release of Ca and Mg enough for the grow and more. Then we need to talk about the source and yes PPM of your starting water. A good EC meter and the ability to use it will help you farm. Tap water can be very high in Ca.

There is not much you can do at this stage in soil. Flushing causes more problems than it solves. Feed the bloom formula at 50% strength, no cal-mag. PHed to 6.3 Do a Water, water, water water, feed, repeat schedule

I believe plants need a night time to produce a good product. Get a small oil filled heater with a built in thermostat ( I think they all have them.) and go to an 18/6 schedule.

RH is an every day battle for most of us home growers. I own a humidifier and a dehumidifier. It is like Yin&Yang. . The first device you have for humidity control in the tent is the exhaust fan. Buy one bigger than you need with an automated speed controller and sometimes this is enough not for me. I have to add gallons of water to the air every day in the summer and run a dehumidifier in the the lung room in the winter. Learning to control the environment just takes practice and vigilance. That is why growers earn a badge for their first full grow and harvest journal on AFN.

Edit: this might help!

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[draxcel]

You have a Phosphorous problem. The tough part is that lock-outs look exactly like deficiencies.

View attachment 1397630

The plant is really green so it does not look hungry. It looks a bit nitrogen rich.

So because Ca locks out P. You added Cal-Mag just before the symptoms Light mix is made with Dolomite Lime which provides a steady release of Ca and Mg enough for the grow and more. Then we need to talk about the source and yes PPM of your starting water. A good EC meter and the ability to use it will help you farm. Tap water can be very high in Ca.

There is not much you can do at this stage in soil. Flushing causes more problems than it solves. Feed the bloom formula at 50% strength, no cal-mag. PHed to 6.3 Do a Water, water, water water, feed, repeat schedule

I believe plants need a night time to produce a good product. Get a small oil filled heater with a built in thermostat ( I think they all have them.) and go to an 18/6 schedule.

RH is an every day battle for most of us home growers. I own a humidifier and a dehumidifier. It is like Yin&Yang. View attachment 1397635 . The first device you have for humidity control in the tent is the exhaust fan. Buy one bigger than you need with an automated speed controller and sometimes this is enough not for me. I have to add gallons of water to the air every day in the summer and run a dehumidifier in the the lung room in the winter. Learning to control the environment just takes practice and vigilance. That is why growers earn a badge for their first full grow and harvest journal on AFN.

View attachment 1397638



Edit: this might help!

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Thank you so much.
A Word on Ppm:I measured what I put in 360 ppm circa and got runoff 650 circa last feeding.
About light schedule yes,I will try to bring It at least 20/4.
I'll do water water water water(distilled so No Ca there) feed as you say,doses at 50%
❤ Thanks for your help.Yes I have the biobizz schedule but I thought It was too much of doses for autos.