Cheers for the phone advice, some of that sounds familiar, I'll have another go at it. I can do allsorts with a PC but mobile phone os confuse the fuck out of me. I have yo say the S8 is far more hands on than the S4 I just got rid of (lmao yeah my last phone I had for years XD).
Advice on wind burn and plant buffeting, is point fans towards the walls as it creates a diffused circulating air current or you could blow air across the tops of the plants and not directly at the leaves ( this is especially good for HID users (which we aren't) as it keep the heat off the plants, ).
You just want to stir the air, to stop there being areas where the air stands still (stagnant air) where mold and mildew & mold likes it (warm , muggy and still).
I also (when needs be) use a 4" axial duct fan for the understory, where it can be rather airless, still and close to moist coco/soil.
This is because I have a small cab and cram as much is viable in my cab.(Which is why I have developed my own dwarfing technique, due to space constraints and I get some nice crops that way).
However your girls have a little more space in a 4' x4' and shouldn't need the extra low down air movement.
As for your getting by... I think you are doing a sterling job and your grow looks great.
:smoking:
As long as you replace the air often with your intake and extraction fan for the size of your space, you are halfway there.
I think I read that you had problems with keeping relative humidity up, so that will also help keep nasty molds and mildew at bay too!
If i remember right you had to get a humidifier, where as I'm looking to get a dehumidifier lol
I know some of your plants (the ones on the left) are a bit lime green, it could be they want a bit more food, they don't look calmah def which a bit more stripey on the leaves.
Some strains can be lime green where others can be very deep green.
Always be careful not to give too much Nitrogen though as it can cause overnitification, which can be identified by very dark green leaves, which have the dreaded "claw" where the leaf tips curl under.
Sometime over nitrification can occur to the lower leaves aren't getting enough light due to the canopy above, i would remove these leave as they are not going to get any more light unless you defoliate and even then they are in the lower popcorn zone where the yield is near on negligible.
The odd foliar feed can sometimes help and the nutes can get to where is needed fast (the same goes with calmag def, using calmag and iron in a spray bottle works a treat and fast)!
An added bonus of foliar feeding is it doesn't affect the root ph, so even if you have lockout the plants can use the nutrients through the leaves, whilst you deal with any possible def.
Seaweed nutes have lots of nice stuff in them and make for great foliar feed.
You don't however want to spray buds, for a couple of reasons, one is the possibility of moldy buds, secondly it may affect to taste of the buds and thirdly you don't want to be smoking nutes.
I think you are feeding slightly under what is stated in you nute schedule, due to others mentioning that whilst Remo's nutes are the mutts nuts , they can be a little to strong for some strains at the rated dosage (I think I'm right saying that, I read through you journal fairly quickly so I might be a little off here).
I also imagine you are good with Ph'ing your nutes. Your in coco right? Drain to waste? 20% to 30% run off when you feed? If yes to these questions, then I imagine your coco is not having salt build up and remaining at the correct Ph.
Seedlings do like it a bit more acid and can take a PH as low as Ph 5.5.
Ph 5.8 is the optimal level for cannabis in coco but allowing it to range up and down a little helps make all the nutrients available.
Here is some interesting reading from Canna on Ions and usable nutrients in coco.
Ions; usable nutrients
All usable nutrients become available to the plants internal processes as ions, or charged atoms or in functional groups such as nitrates. Ions affect each other. In fact, in the plants processes they are combined in controlled fashion. In a solution with other ions, and no controls, they still combine or associate with other ions of opposite charge. They also affect the availability of each other as similar charges. This is known as antagonism, where large quantities of one element will decrease availability of another element which is available in smaller quantities.
In this case, as the concentration of potassium increases, the availability of both calcium and magnesium decreases. It is more commonly known as locking out. When combined with the effects of pH and temperature, precipitation of these salts can occur. The effect works the other way too, when calcium increases the potassium availability decreases. Additionally, Potassium has the ability to almost move throughout a plant at will, it is mostly un-regulated; a characteristic all plants have adapted by harnessing these ions to do work as they move around.
This is all very well and good, but how does that affect the use of coconut peat and mulch with plants? As the coco decomposes, it ‘releases’ salts that increase the EC of the medium which will result in burning and imbalances in calcium and/or magnesium and potassium balances or ratios. The ‘greener’ the coco, the greater the problem. About the time this ‘release’ slows down sufficiently to be able to grow a crop in, the structure of the coco has the characteristics of muck peat and needs amendments such as perlite, sand, pebbles or other large particles added to give the growing medium air. Also, the state of decomposition is at its highest, so what is left will not last long, and it is even in danger of being washed out of the container. We know that if we can control the level of salts AND the ratio of these salts at an earlier stage, we would have the advantage of a good physical structure and a proper nutrient balance.
I like to uses well washed coco and one that has been buffered like Canna coco pro but I have recently had good result using "Coco coinz" which are also well washed and buffered!
Cheap coco bricks are cheap for a reason and could contain high levels of salts and be less PH stable.
Also a handy thing to remember if you use PPM to measure your nutes strength, is there are several PPM scales and if you are advised to use a certain ppm b y someone, make sure you are both using the same scale!
I like to use EC as it is a universal scale and everyone is using the same strength if someone says to use 1.1 EC etc.
Some of this you may know but this is some of the info i have so i thought i would share it with you.
To be honest the person to ask about your possible deficiency, is the eminent and very knowledgeable @waria ,who has an unrivaled knowledge, when it come to plant def!
Your spot on the money, where AFN peeps are concerned!!
AFN is a wonderful community of awesome people , who love to help each other out and something which I applaud!
As the they say "always pay it forward"!
I hope I haven't waffled on too much, if I have let me know and I will try to keep it more succinct in future posts lol
Arty
