@Eekman how are you buddy ?

Everything looking good ! but I would suggest going for ph 5.7 - 5.9 max at this stage, and slowly up the pH to 6.2 6.3 late flower.
It all about nutrient availability.

Also, since you're using RO, the order is quite important. You need to drop cal mag first, the let mix well, then the rest. I highly suggest a small bottle of liquid silicon as pH up. Not only does it pH up, but is beneficial to plant in such small doses. Silica promotes strong stems and thicker leafs. Also with RO and cal mag will make you pH more stable (useful if you run a big rez like I do)

Do you have an EC meter? General rule of thumb, start low and look at the plant. Coco is inert so there are no nute in there.

Subb'ed up! :pop:
 
Hey @Fairlynew

Today is day one, at what point do I start adding nutrients? And that is at half strength, did I read that somewhere?
:deadhorse:
Seedlings from germ can go up to 2 weeks with out nutes.
I usually start them at 1/4 strength after 1 week of them with head above the soil.
week 2 , 1/2 strength.
Starting of in coco you want to start with a more acidic nutrient solution around 5.5 to 5.6 which is good for young roots.
As you go through the grow you can go to 5.7 for veg growth and in flowering take it up 6.0 in the final week of flowering.
upload_2017-2-6_16-8-7.png

I took this screen grab from the picture up the page.
It is pointless to state ppm quantity if the user doen't know which PPM scale is being used.
Not all PPM scales are equal as you can see from the chart.
So when anyone gives a PPM reading you should always ask which scale they are using.
I advise phoning them/ Email them and finding out which scale it is or it could through out your dosing and end up with under feeding or over feeding.
upload_2017-2-6_16-10-15.png


I use EC as it is the most universal scale, if some one gives you an EC reading, you know it will be that value (unless the meter isn't calibrated, calibration should be done before you start each grow for peace of mind and the electrodes should be washed with distilled water to stop any residue build up throwing out the readings).
Dry with a totally clean cloth.
I start my solution at 1.0 - 1.1 EC and take it up to 1.6-1.7 EC at the end of the grow.
I observe how they are responding, if they are greedy then it goes up , if they are sensitive and show leaf tip scorch I back it off.
Coco love to steal (lock up) calcium so if you have soft water cal mag is a must.
Mag def will often show up at week 3 so start using calmag a bit earlier than this.
LED lighting seem to affect the uptake more than HID or CFL, If you get some noticable paling inbetween the leaf veins, then the fastest way to get the mag there is with foliar feeding of some epsom salts or a proprietory calmag solution.
I tsp of epsom salt dissolved in a little hot water and topped up to 1 liter will do the trick.
Spray the tops of you leaves at the start of your dark period and keep any air movement fans moving air around , which will help the leaves dry.
With my COB light I turn them down to minimum as I run 24/7 light, those big beefy COBs with a lens attached bump out a seriously strong beam, and will give you leaf scorch under full power.
I see the coco has other amendments like basalt which isn't in my coco.
Aged forest materials??? what kind of forest?? I hope it is deciduous rather than pine forest.
It has perlite in it, I add perlite to my coco at a rate of 20% of total mass.

@JAYAR is a coco legend and some one who got me interested coco, maybe he can add some info, other wise check out his grows.
 
Also, what about PHing the water.?
I mentioned I start at 5.5 for seedlings going up to 6.0 last week of flower.
You can also just Ph to 5.7 as an average and let it range up and down between 5.5 - 6.0 for a basic PHing.
 
@Eekman how are you buddy ?

Everything looking good ! but I would suggest going for ph 5.7 - 5.9 max at this stage, and slowly up the pH to 6.2 6.3 late flower.
It all about nutrient availability.

Also, since you're using RO, the order is quite important. You need to drop cal mag first, the let mix well, then the rest. I highly suggest a small bottle of liquid silicon as pH up. Not only does it pH up, but is beneficial to plant in such small doses. Silica promotes strong stems and thicker leafs. Also with RO and cal mag will make you pH more stable (useful if you run a big rez like I do)

Do you have an EC meter? General rule of thumb, start low and look at the plant. Coco is inert so there are no nute in there.

Subb'ed up! :pop:
I agree, i didn't see you were using RO water so calmag is a must!
 
I agree, i didn't see you were using RO water so calmag is a must!

As I was being conservative. I too start at 5.5 for better roots and end around 6.4. In fact I like my pH swinging most of the cycle by +/- 0.2

I have a bluelab guardian that I clean and calibrate every six months. They advise more frequently but this thing is a tank and after calibration I've never ever have it off mark. 4 years constant use. Super piece of kit.

If I had a cheap pen, even calibrating I'd go for a solid 5.9 +/- 0.3 to account for precision error. Yeah, I am that of a geek :smoking:

All in all coco is extremely forgiving. Just go for it :shooty:
 
As I was being conservative. I too start at 5.5 for better roots and end around 6.4. In fact I like my pH swinging most of the cycle by +/- 0.2

I have a bluelab guardian that I clean and calibrate every six months. They advise more frequently but this thing is a tank and after calibration I've never ever have it off hark. 4 years constant use. Super piece of kit.

If I had a cheap pen, even calibrating I'd go for a solid 5.9 +/- 0.3 to account for precision error. Yeah, I am that of a geek :smoking:

All in all coco is extremely forgiving. Just go for it :shooty:

I concur , I have a bluelab truncheon and it is a great EC meter.
 
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