Mephisto Genetics Mephisto Sam’s Crack - Completed - Dry / Cure

But I do have a few Questions, if you care?
sure

What size / kind of pots?

7 gallon fabric pots (filled with 5G to leave room for many mulchings)

What kind of amendments did you add?

bio char (precharged with fish hydrosolate)
insect frass 2-3-2
oyster shell
rock dust
crab meal 4-3-0
Neem seed meal 4-1-2
alfalfa meal
kelp meal
Seabird Guano 0-11-0
Bat Guano 7-3-1
Blood meal
Bone meal
Humic acid (granular)
mycobloom mycorhizae
plant probiotics
watered in some nematodes as well


What was base for mix ... ie 1/3 this plus 1/4 that plus???
60% Peat
20% Unco EWC (probably not the best)
10% Coco coir
10% Course pumice


Did you add EWC, if so source?
yes, got them from amazon, so.....

Environment and control of that environment?

Pots are sitting in a dark room, ambient temps 68-74F, been misting daily.

And probably the most important question, do you have a passion, which I suspect answer is yes - most who go LOS express passion .... Passionate or even desire to wanna grow the best available, LOS it it ..... I’ll take on a Hydro Grow any day, especially if taking blind taste test, LOS Rocks .....

You better believe it sweet cheeks! :frog:

Thank you for the help.:bighug:
I used to run a mix similar to yours in 7's filled 5 full. I did it for years. Remixed/recycled the soil between rounds. Worked steller. Maybe I should share a little more about when I grew that style. It may help someone.
That was back in the days that I did do cover crops of clover. It was in a ring around the outer part of the pot, as described planted with mycos and N fixing bacteria. My original thinking with clover cover crops back then was 4 fold. First was get something growing to get the rhizosphere kicking as early as possible. The second was to fix extra nitrogen in the soil. The 3rd was the beneficial release of enzymes, due to sprouting seeds in the container. The fourth, was using the ring of clover, to hold moisture, and help bring up the RH around a small seedling plant. (I am always putting water in the air). Those were what I thought the advantage of that type of clover cover cropping. The 2nd and 3rd reasons are pretty easy to add in another way. That leaves, trying to aid RH in the zone around a seedling, and having the soil up and running. If this is the case, you want to plant the clover and have it going about 2 weeks before you plant canna seeds. Then every time I mist, the clover holds more moisture.
There is one more super good reason for planting a clover cover crop. The clover can help use up moisture, so that beginners don't overwater as bad. I mean this in reference to planting seeds in their final container. I used to make up 5 gals for my neighbors and always planted clover in the auto's for just that reason. When the clover droops, the pot needs water. When they turn around and water them death by accident, the clover helped regulate that, by using water. I call that in indicator companion plant :).

Now you guys have heard both sides, from my perspective. It is in fact probably more beneficial to run covers on containers, that have been recently remixed. You just have to decide if its worth it to do. Running no tills, I already have the soil up and running, and have the correct mycos already established and waiting for a new host. There is the argument that a proper mulch layer will give off moisture, just as well as living mulch. That being said, I think I have it covered.
cheers
os
 
But I do have a few Questions, if you care?
sure

What size / kind of pots?

7 gallon fabric pots (filled with 5G to leave room for many mulchings)

What kind of amendments did you add?

bio char (precharged with fish hydrosolate)
insect frass 2-3-2
oyster shell
rock dust
crab meal 4-3-0
Neem seed meal 4-1-2
alfalfa meal
kelp meal
Seabird Guano 0-11-0
Bat Guano 7-3-1
Blood meal
Bone meal
Humic acid (granular)
mycobloom mycorhizae
plant probiotics
watered in some nematodes as well


What was base for mix ... ie 1/3 this plus 1/4 that plus???
60% Peat
20% Unco EWC (probably not the best)
10% Coco coir
10% Course pumice


Did you add EWC, if so source?
yes, got them from amazon, so.....

Environment and control of that environment?

Pots are sitting in a dark room, ambient temps 68-74F, been misting daily.

And probably the most important question, do you have a passion, which I suspect answer is yes - most who go LOS express passion .... Passionate or even desire to wanna grow the best available, LOS it it ..... I’ll take on a Hydro Grow any day, especially if taking blind taste test, LOS Rocks .....

You better believe it sweet cheeks! :frog:

Thank you for the help.:bighug:

Some good stuff, you’ve studied .... but there’s a lot more to go ....

I see an issue with your base mix and would not proceed until more thought is given .....

Soil mixed I use is based on the Coots Soil Mix with my personal variation but basics first ..... Personality I’d address my Base Soil Mix before proceeding ..... I was anxious too my first grow, I knew how to grow - well results ok but couldn’t wait for them to finish cause I f——-d upped, I wanted them done and you bet your sweet rear I studied and learned from my mistakes ..... Will it grow, heck ya, it’s called a weed .. will it look like a weed or the beautiful flourishing buddy plant you envision looking at some of the grows .....

Search Web formCoots Soil Mix and you’ll find this along with amendments he adds but here’s the base, much different from yours ....

Coots Soil Mix

Base:
  • 1/3 Compost
  • 1/3 Sphagnum Peat Moss
  • 1/3 Aeration (Such as pumice stone, rice hulls, lava rock)

7 Gallon Pots, use 5 Gallons, exact same here, good, working for me ....

Amendments .... search coots soil mix and follow .... I’m learning ammdendments to add myself, I did not make my own soil, rather I used two different bagged soils based on coot’s recipe plus couple things I added lmyself ..... I did have worm bins and Organics in the yard before growing so some fresh compost was one thing I added to the bagged soil ..... did I say??? - it is of the upmost importance you establish a worm - If I didn’t I know Sensi did .... gotta have if you want to produce the best ....

Environment- Apologies didn’t specify .... meant grow room environment, lights, etc?

Keep asking, I’ll keep answering!

Peace

PS Check those podcasts with Coot himself, they are a kick to hear, was the turning point in my grow, I know if you just listen to [HASHTAG]#3[/HASHTAG] you’ll be hooked.
 
I used to run a mix similar to yours in 7's filled 5 full. I did it for years. Remixed/recycled the soil between rounds. Worked steller. Maybe I should share a little more about when I grew that style. It may help someone.
That was back in the days that I did do cover crops of clover. It was in a ring around the outer part of the pot, as described planted with mycos and N fixing bacteria. My original thinking with clover cover crops back then was 4 fold. First was get something growing to get the rhizosphere kicking as early as possible. The second was to fix extra nitrogen in the soil. The 3rd was the beneficial release of enzymes, due to sprouting seeds in the container. The fourth, was using the ring of clover, to hold moisture, and help bring up the RH around a small seedling plant. (I am always putting water in the air). Those were what I thought the advantage of that type of clover cover cropping. The 2nd and 3rd reasons are pretty easy to add in another way. That leaves, trying to aid RH in the zone around a seedling, and having the soil up and running. If this is the case, you want to plant the clover and have it going about 2 weeks before you plant canna seeds. Then every time I mist, the clover holds more moisture.
There is one more super good reason for planting a clover cover crop. The clover can help use up moisture, so that beginners don't overwater as bad. I mean this in reference to planting seeds in their final container. I used to make up 5 gals for my neighbors and always planted clover in the auto's for just that reason. When the clover droops, the pot needs water. When they turn around and water them death by accident, the clover helped regulate that, by using water. I call that in indicator companion plant :).

Now you guys have heard both sides, from my perspective. It is in fact probably more beneficial to run covers on containers, that have been recently remixed. You just have to decide if its worth it to do. Running no tills, I already have the soil up and running, and have the correct mycos already established and waiting for a new host. There is the argument that a proper mulch layer will give off moisture, just as well as living mulch. That being said, I think I have it covered.
cheers
os

Perfect Plan, will have to implement ..... I see I can buy individual clover seeds, cheap, and such at the feed store so I’ll get there instead of the cover mix i purchased for this grow.

Best!
 
My amendment mix is basically coots, plus or minus a this or that, but at lower amounts. I agree with lots of aeration. I like 33% perlite or pumice, plus bark and rice hulls on top of that. Good draining breathing mix is key. If I lived in more arid climate, then less aeration.
Another feed store tip
Kelp is often available at the feed store as well. The real lucky horses get fed kelp, other animals as well. Way cheaper than 5 lb boxes. 30 or 50# sacks.
Cheers
Os
 
You got that right, score a fifty pound open bag or organic certified kelp,bla bla bla ... throvilne or something like that, exact same kelp Coot recommends, cost $1.45 a pound, .... broken bag, they charged me for 40 lbs, had more, deal and they loaded in back of truck .... wanna make some corn tea, stuff is laying all,over in piles at feed store, ask and pickup a handful, all you need for s batch ....

I walked into feed store and told warehouse guy I wanted tor to look at fertilizer and he directed me to the store, nope I’m in the right building, got alfalfa pellets and alfalfa bails from his warehouse along with straw .... in the store I got some oysters shells and couple smaller corn brooms - great quality for $5.69 each .... I find quality unbeatable as well as prices at almost any feed store, especially ones located further away from cities ....

Feed and brewery stores, brewery stores spent grain is gold to an organic gardener and free if you ask or even ask for broken bags or specials on malted grainss.
 
You got that right, score a fifty pound open bag or organic certified kelp,bla bla bla ... throvilne or something like that, exact same kelp Coot recommends, cost $1.45 a pound, .... broken bag, they charged me for 40 lbs, had more, deal and they loaded in back of truck .... wanna make some corn tea, stuff is laying all,over in piles at feed store, ask and pickup a handful, all you need for s batch ....

I walked into feed store and told warehouse guy I wanted tor to look at fertilizer and he directed me to the store, nope I’m in the right building, got alfalfa pellets and alfalfa bails from his warehouse along with straw .... in the store I got some oysters shells and couple smaller corn brooms - great quality for $5.69 each .... I find quality unbeatable as well as prices at almost any feed store, especially ones located further away from cities ....

Feed and brewery stores, brewery stores spent grain is gold to an organic gardener and free if you ask or even ask for broken bags or specials on malted grainss.
Life is good and cheap away from the 'hydro store'.
cheers
os
 
Some good stuff, you’ve studied .... but there’s a lot more to go ....

I see an issue with your base mix and would not proceed until more thought is given .....

Soil mixed I use is based on the Coots Soil Mix with my personal variation but basics first ..... Personality I’d address my Base Soil Mix before proceeding ..... I was anxious too my first grow, I knew how to grow - well results ok but couldn’t wait for them to finish cause I f——-d upped, I wanted them done and you bet your sweet rear I studied and learned from my mistakes ..... Will it grow, heck ya, it’s called a weed .. will it look like a weed or the beautiful flourishing buddy plant you envision looking at some of the grows .....

Search Web formCoots Soil Mix and you’ll find this along with amendments he adds but here’s the base, much different from yours ....

Coots Soil Mix

Base:
  • 1/3 Compost
  • 1/3 Sphagnum Peat Moss
  • 1/3 Aeration (Such as pumice stone, rice hulls, lava rock)

7 Gallon Pots, use 5 Gallons, exact same here, good, working for me ....

Amendments .... search coots soil mix and follow .... I’m learning ammdendments to add myself, I did not make my own soil, rather I used two different bagged soils based on coot’s recipe plus couple things I added lmyself ..... I did have worm bins and Organics in the yard before growing so some fresh compost was one thing I added to the bagged soil ..... did I say??? - it is of the upmost importance you establish a worm - If I didn’t I know Sensi did .... gotta have if you want to produce the best ....

Environment- Apologies didn’t specify .... meant grow room environment, lights, etc?

Keep asking, I’ll keep answering!

Peace

PS Check those podcasts with Coot himself, they are a kick to hear, was the turning point in my grow, I know if you just listen to [HASHTAG]#3[/HASHTAG] you’ll be hooked.
Thanks for the feedback MOB!

The [HASHTAG]#s[/HASHTAG] I gave are kinda Willy nilly guessing, I could be off 5-10% on any of those figures. Anywho the mix is quite diverse and yeah I wish I'd a put more drainage, but too late now. Worms have been working the soil and its looking and smelling real good. Gave them a canna leaf mulch and plan to sprinkle some cover crop seeds over that. Also I started soaking some Meph seeds to go into starter cups, then in 2 weeks or so, transplant into the LOS pots. Hopefully they'll have cooked enough by then.
My growroom has 14 DIY cobs, air extraction, and fan stirring air. Humidity between 40-60%, temps 68-75 right now. Summer time is a different story tho.
Need to get a proper worm bin going quick.
 
Thanks for the feedback MOB!

The [HASHTAG]#s[/HASHTAG] I gave are kinda Willy nilly guessing, I could be off 5-10% on any of those figures. Anywho the mix is quite diverse and yeah I wish I'd a put more drainage, but too late now. Worms have been working the soil and its looking and smelling real good. Gave them a canna leaf mulch and plan to sprinkle some cover crop seeds over that. Also I started soaking some Meph seeds to go into starter cups, then in 2 weeks or so, transplant into the LOS pots. Hopefully they'll have cooked enough by then.
My growroom has 14 DIY cobs, air extraction, and fan stirring air. Humidity between 40-60%, temps 68-75 right now. Summer time is a different story tho.
Need to get a proper worm bin going quick.
Very nice! if you are on the fence about starting a worm bin this may help change your mind. Its more motivational than informational.


Cheers
os
 
Thanks for the feedback MOB!

The [HASHTAG]#s[/HASHTAG] I gave are kinda Willy nilly guessing, I could be off 5-10% on any of those figures. Anywho the mix is quite diverse and yeah I wish I'd a put more drainage, but too late now. Worms have been working the soil and its looking and smelling real good. Gave them a canna leaf mulch and plan to sprinkle some cover crop seeds over that. Also I started soaking some Meph seeds to go into starter cups, then in 2 weeks or so, transplant into the LOS pots. Hopefully they'll have cooked enough by then.
My growroom has 14 DIY cobs, air extraction, and fan stirring air. Humidity between 40-60%, temps 68-75 right now. Summer time is a different story tho.
Need to get a proper worm bin going quick.

Hey Roasty good to hear from you ..... So let’s work backwards ....

Worm Bin ..... Numerous types including bags and bins ... Flow-Thru etc ..... Brother Sensi posted video to help ..... Myself I like the convenience of the Urban Wrom Bag and getting educational emails from the Owner, Steve who is dedicated to his craft .... Urban Worm Bag available on Amazon under $70 without frame or $110 with frame, frame is just pipe and corners, u can do yourself easy .... Then you have @Organic Sinse who uses bins and those work very well and a ton of other creative methods .... Myself and Sinse use three kinds of worms, Reds, Euro and African but if you could only use one, use the reds, they are top feeders and out eat their counterparts by a mile ...... Euro midddle and African work the bottom .... Remember this phrase ..... Worms are the Worlds Best Gardeners .... feed the worms, who feed the soil and the worms have delivery service where they take to the roots and give them some air, while there .... You cannot beat the worm, period .... Feed your worms foods like Karanja, barley, neem, kelp, horse manure, leaf mold and they will,produce killer dark rich castings .... Bro Sensi has it down to a science, he has castings for different stages of growth but focus on just one for now and nail it, then expand .....

Humidity/ Temps ..... Veg state I Rwanda Break in the 78-82ish range with RH around 68-75% - kinda like a sauna..... as she got older I decrease humidity to 65-70% and then came preflower and 60% on humidity and temp still 76-78 ..... Now she is in flower I’m lowering humidity, working in the 59% range right now with temps 75ish .... as she flowers I lower humidity some more to get to 45ish range ..... I follow a VPD (Vapor Pressure Deficit) Chart I found here on a post and printed out, so I don’t have the link but here is a link to Wikipedia quick explain of VPD https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour-pressure_deficit ....

Your temps RH inside tent NOT good for babies, your more in a flower temp range, especially on humidity side ....

Grow Room ..... Individual Cons good as you can adjust per plant, consider getting a PAR Meter so you can fine tune each individual light .... PAR Meter measures intensity of light and its important to have dialed in PER STRAIN - while strains generally a lot of light not all like the same intensity ..... Not until I had everything dialed in on my second grow did I realize 3 Bears OG can’t handle same light as Strawberry Nugs so had to adjust for that, with the PAR Meter I always know how close or far light should be, without its a guess ..... But individual COB makes it a whole lot easier to adjust.

Current Soil ..... Only thing that needs modification is drainage, just add some drainage material, preferably small Laba Rock and it should be good ..... If soil,still,coooking, no problem adding after but before planting ..... the drainage is so important .... prevent defense ..... fungus gnats, fungus gnats love wet soil ..... drain or pain?

What strains are you planning?
 
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