New Grower Mandycheese made a woopsie

[sativalover]

even an experienced grower can benefit from a five dollar soil moisture meter
found usually in a cheap tri-meter
lifting buckets and placing finger in soil is like using cheap ph meter in the end wildly innacurate plants have a dif requirement from day to day
place meter in soil and only water till meter tells you to quit
while flushing this is dif but point is it changes
and oversaturation even by alittle will cause alittle lockout from changing ph
ph is a constant changing thing as molecules transfer and w/o the proper oxygen ratio this can not occur properly to be generic
hence the adding of h2o2 and air bubblers in hydro eventhough they are constantly saturated to be quick
gotaa run and burn some will stop in later

 

[The Squid]

even an experienced grower can benefit from a five dollar soil moisture meter
found usually in a cheap tri-meter
lifting buckets and placing finger in soil is like using cheap ph meter in the end wildly innacurate plants have a dif requirement from day to day
place meter in soil and only water till meter tells you to quit
while flushing this is dif but point is it changes
and oversaturation even by alittle will cause alittle lockout from changing ph
ph is a constant changing thing as molecules transfer and w/o the proper oxygen ratio this can not occur properly to be generic
hence the adding of h2o2 and air bubblers in hydro eventhough they are constantly saturated to be quick
gotaa run and burn some will stop in later

I partially agree. While a moisture meter would prove beneficial, there are SO many growers here just going by the weight of the containers, and it works just fine with a little practice. Not for me, haha, but it does for them. You can calibrate yourself using weight by learning, but you cannot do that with a shitty ph meter no matter how hard you try.

 

[sativalover]

I partially agree. While a moisture meter would prove beneficial, there are SO many growers here just going by the weight of the containers, and it works just fine with a little practice. Not for me, haha, but it does for them. You can calibrate yourself using weight by learning, but you cannot do that with a shitty ph meter no matter how hard you try.

1. well i would say partially true as seing that for thousands of years mj was grown w/o a newer ph meter either
   point is if i am telling you to be exact here to push the limits it is ridiculous to tell you to best quess it there
   the way i learned to tell soil ph when i was a child and had no ph meter on the farm was to TASTE soil yes taste it well needless to say i'am not going to recommend it to you for alot of reasons but guess what it was the standard for a few thousand years and as un exact as lifting the bucket
   i promise you can't get a true reading even really by weight even w/ an extremely accurate weighing devise let alone arms fatigue if you lifted two hundread buckets think you might have a dif from beginning 10 to last 10 yeah i think fatigue would set in just as example
   that this is a ok way to go if you are well experienced but even daily plant changes and needs can't be considered spot on like an instrument that measures ppm temp fluctuation conversions just to name a quick few we take for granted from time to time w/ a ph meter
   in truth i have grown alot of crops only checking ph a few times was it the absolute best use of resources no of course not but end result was more than satisfying so din't need the extra work
   now could i have pushed more of course
   it depends on your specific needs in every situation
   would i recommend doing this for a newer grower not at all for the best results
   like i said point is if you want precise more predictable results you need that balance as close as possible never dipping tooo far to one dir or the other regardless of the specific variable in question we could also go real oldschool on soil moisture as well but it is obv not good to container soil
   pull a handful of soil from ground if it drips at all you overwattered and some potential oxygen was displaced which would have more rapidly developed the balance needed
   do this too many times say good buy to beneficial microbe friends and hello to nutrient ph issues
   ummmm.... oh yeah...
   Mandy...
   still there
   hope any of this helps i promise it is very crucial in the end​

 

[Noods]

Sativalover, for knowing what you're talking about and patiently explaining, I added some rep points to your account. (I sort of hoped that burning one just before might have helped you find at least a "period" on your computer keyboard, but hey, you win some, you loose some...

 

[sativalover]

Sativalover, for knowing what you're talking about and patiently explaining, I added some rep points to your account. (I sort of hoped that burning one just before might have helped you find at least a "period" on your computer keyboard, but hey, you win some, you loose some...

no periods or complete sen only wandering sen fragments hoping to combind the needed thoughts for close to the wanted result
this is the way my wondering displaced mind goes
should see me in the store w/o a list
i can read labels and compair for wayyyy to long
i figure when i talk i leave no periods either usually only when inferring a reply
sorry i am much better in person but you would have to deal w/ my sarcastic sense of humor so it is a toss up
in short my friend you are awesome and i reallyyyyyyyy enjoy that sense of humor present in that post it is more me than you know
hey where is that period thing anyway is this it>
but .... shouldn't it be loose some...)
oh yeah plus a crappy connection that has deleted manyyyyyyyyyyyyy a page when i got long winded and was more specific in an individual post
oh yeah thanks for the plus rep sounds good but still don't know what or where it is

 

[Noods]

Keep it Green, my friend! :smokebuds:

 

[sativalover]

I'm a big fan of foliars too, sati, and what you say is very correct. In that first post from me I was only concerned about Mandy's buds getting moldy. But I agree with you. Foliars are the best quick fix. Just try to keep your buds dry and don't forget the bottoms of the leaves, Mandy.

thank you for a good point when foliar feeding the undersides of leaf are better at absorbing but are more delicate than the sun protective layer on top of leaf so go easy in any event
less is more and you can't take out once you stepped over that line
Mandy still there???????
she was in a running car i hope it wasn't in a closed garage waiting for me to shut up she would surely be dead from carbon monoxide by now
gotta go to roast may hop in later .Peace

 

[Hugo]

Hey Mandy,

So by now you know of a very good add to your nutes cabinet for next growth right? A good Cal/Mag supplement is as important as any other nute you already have. I'm sorry for not answering sooner, but I hope I can contribute a little to help out in a simple fashion.

It's to my understanding that you cannot go to an hydroponics store, but if there's a garden center, or perhaps a good garden aisle in your supermarket you can get yourself some calcium tomorrow and some limestone aswell. If not, there's an alternative to quickly supply some calcium to your soil: wood ashes. Do you have any? You can use them sparingly on top of soil as it contains about 45% Calcium carbonate. It will also raise your soil pH. Other sources are as follow: Gypsum, Bone meal, Soft rock phosphate, Aragonite (seashells), Egg shells.

Regarding pH IMO I think 6.3 is perfect! Again IMO, most people think that Ca deficiencies occur because of a lockout (?). Well, it's not. We are giving our plants most of what they need with our NPK formulas, but we keep forgetting Calcium. Calcium is the most important nutrient in the susteinability of our skeleton. So why wouldn't it be such as important to plants aswell? Calcium deficiencies are very rare outdoors because the soils are usually very rich in it. It's not the same with our small pots. Ca is needed as much as nytrogen! Remember: add Cal/Mag nute to your nute's cabinet.

Ps - don't overdo on the wood ashes because too much is toxic! Just enough to slightly cover the soil.

Hey squid (I'm waving)Thank u guys, I'm thinking cal/mag then.....so now I have a problem....what can I use for this? As I dnt have any of that.... Need to feed today so I'm thinkin I can start treating her if nything in the house can be used? Oh and its the biobizz nutes squid.

 

[sativalover]

Hey Mandy,

So by now you know of a very good add to your nutes cabinet for next growth right? A good Cal/Mag supplement is as important as any other nute you already have. I'm sorry for not answering sooner, but I hope I can contribute a little to help out in a simple fashion.

It's to my understanding that you cannot go to an hydroponics store, but if there's a garden center, or perhaps a good garden aisle in your supermarket you can get yourself some calcium tomorrow and some limestone aswell. If not, there's an alternative to quickly supply some calcium to your soil: wood ashes. Do you have any? You can use them sparingly on top of soil as it contains about 45% Calcium carbonate. It will also raise your soil pH. Other sources are as follow: Gypsum, Bone meal, Soft rock phosphate, Aragonite (seashells), Egg shells.

Regarding pH IMO I think 6.3 is perfect! Again IMO, most people think that Ca deficiencies occur because of a lockout (?). Well, it's not. We are giving our plants most of what they need with our NPK formulas, but we keep forgetting Calcium. Calcium is the most important nutrient in the susteinability of our skeleton. So why wouldn't it be such as important to plants aswell? Calcium deficiencies are very rare outdoors because the soils are usually very rich in it. It's not the same with our small pots. Ca is needed as much as nytrogen! Remember: add Cal/Mag nute to your nute's cabinet.

Ps - don't overdo on the wood ashes because too much is toxic! Just enough to slightly cover the soil.

interesting observation since p cal and mag will begin lockout at 6.3 ??????
and in return 6.6 will begin lock out mn, fe
6.5 is the best range of overall nutrient availability in soil if this is what we are talking about?
or 5.8 in soiless or hydro but at 5.8 mn is more unavailable but plant needs less of this and usually gets during swing in ph levels
do what you wish but on a side note if the wood ash has ever had pressure treated lumber burned there it is useless for using as it is toxic
and lots of spring water has plenty of cal in it also well water around here is blessed w/ too much so it is atleast mixed w/ R/O water or rain water to thin out the levels
still wonder what water you are using?

 

[Hugo]

They're not locked out! They are slightly less available. Which is not bad at all! because there has to be a compromise between what you get here and there from soil. I already said once, and I'll say it again, I don't like that chart. The micro and macro nutrients don't just get locked out from 100% to 0% in a matter of a tenth of a pH variation. There's a curve!! It's simbioses man...

I prefer a chart that takes into consideration the natural ways of life:

By the way, it's dated from 2010.