Live Stoners Live Stoner Chat - Jan-Mar '23

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:snow2: Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzz...................................


That was me 15 minutes of Be Kind to Me Treat...............:biggrin:......

We went down the beach for coffee and tapas.....................and the cafe is closed until tomorrow..........:biggrin:...Sods Flipping Law.

I Expected to scream when the wave hit.......:pass: ...but it actually wasn't that bad........


Now I'm Zenned.............:zen:......


wish I could join ya looks beautiful:headbang::pass:
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That would be interesting. I made the comment because I've grown in multiple fashions.. And for me the clear winner is organic as it seems to produce a healthier, much more oily, more potent, and much more fragrant end product.
:biggrin:
The same goes for garden vegetables. A surprising difference in organic VS non-organic sweet potatoes come to mind. When my Mom surprised me with all those potato slips, I had to give some to a neighbor. A very capable gardener, but not organic at all. We both used a mound method of growing.
This was my first growing of sweet potatoes. I knew how to grow them, just never done it. My work schedule wouldn't let me harvest one strain when I wanted. I had nothing but monsters. I just knew I had stringy ass sweet taters, because that's what I've found in the stores.
Nothing could be further from the truth! We're not talking about 'regular' size taters. I had a lot that were close to football size. Most of the taters were too big for one person.
I took one sweet potato to make candied sweet potato for the office Christmas party, I told everyone I'd use just one when we signed up what to bring. It was two big dishes. I didn't take any home. Everyone kept saying how good they were, but no one believed it was one tater. It wasn't stringy!
The same couldn't be said for my neighbor's taters. He was watching me for when I harvested mine, so his were pretty big, almost as big as mine. His big ones were very stringy.
Yeah, It wasn't scientific, but it was the norm in the overall quality of what I grew. My one commercial grow of cantaloupes was quite the success and it was because of the flavor........best I've ever eaten. My disappointments were mainly from strain selections that were wrong for my area.
Taste is a telling factor. Better and more taste means a healthier food. I see no reason the same can't be said for canna.
 
Its ok, I thought that I read rust fungus can be wiped off the surface of a leaf but it will still be infected. I wiped and nothing came off so Im leaning towards cal/mag deficiency. I was just hoping someone read something similar so I knew if I was remembering right.
I remember reading maybe here? That some nutrient are mobile while others are immoble and that effects where you might notice a deficiency at least initially????
 
Theres a thread in the infirmary I believe.
Thanks! I did see a thread with images of deficiency's which was really cool. If it's the one In thinking of there may not have been any diagnostics to it not that I really think that would be easy lol
 
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Thanks! I did see a thread with images of deficiency's which was really cool. If it's the one In thinking of there may not have been any diagnostics to it not that I really think that would be easy lol

I've got a long winded but nice list of elements and their mobility.
Might be useful! :D

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Seventeen elements have been identified as vital to plant growth.
Three elements, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, are non-minerals. The other 14 are minerals.

Carbon and oxygen enter plants through leaves as carbon dioxide.
Oxygen also enters plants with hydrogen through roots as water.

The other 14 must be dissolved in soil water and enter the plant as roots take up water.

Mineral elements can further be divided into primary or secondary macronutrients and micronutrients.

Macronutrients are those needed in relatively large amounts while micronutrients, as their name implies, are needed in small amounts. However, a deficiency in any vital element can seriously inhibit plant development.


The 14 elements essential for plant growth and their mobility and role within the plant.

Macronutrients


Primary


Nitrogen (N) Yes
Formation of amino acids, vitamins and proteins; cell division

Phosphorous (P) Yes
Energy storage and transfer; cell growth; root and seed formation and growth; winter hardiness; water use

Potassium (K) Yes
Carbohydrate metabolism, breakdown and translocation; water efficiency; fruit formation; winter hardiness; disease resistance

Secondary

Calcium (Ca) No
Cell division and formation; nitrogen metabolism; translocation; fruit set

Magnesium (Mg) Yes
Chlorophyll production; phosphorus mobility; iron utilization; fruit maturation

Sulfur (S) No
Amino acids formation; enzyme and vitamin development; seed production; chlorophyll formation

Micronutrients

Boron (B) No
Pollen grain germination and tube growth; seed and cell wall formation; maturity promotion; sugar translocation

Chlorine (Cl) Yes
Role not well understood

Copper (Cu) No
Metabolic catalyst; functions in photosynthesis and reproduction; increases sugar; intensifies color; improves flavor

Iron (Fe) No
Chlorophyll formation; oxygen carrier; cell division and growth

Manganese (Mn) No
Involved in enzyme systems; aids chlorophyll synthesis; P and CA availability

Molybdenum (Mo) Yes
Nitrate reductase formation; converts inorganic phosphates to organic

Nickel (Ni) Yes
Nitrogen metabolism and fixation; disease tolerance

Zinc (Zn) No
Hormone and enzyme systems; chlorophyll production; carbohydrate, starch and seed formation

HOW MOBILE & IMMOBILIE ELEMENTS WORK

Once inside plants, nutrients are transported to where they are needed, typically to growing points. Once incorporated by the plant, some elements can be immobile while others can be remobilized. Immobile elements essentially get locked in place and that is where they stay. Those that can be remobilized can leave their original location and move to areas of greater demand. Knowing which are mobile or immobile is helpful in diagnosing deficiency symptoms.

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth (Photo 2).


11-14-Deficiency-symptoms-1-RON.jpg


11-14-Deficiency-symptoms-2-RON.jpg


Photos 1-2. (Left) Typical deficiency symptoms of a non- mobile nutrient (iron) within the plant. Note newer leaves are more affected. (Right) Typical deficiency symptoms of a mobile nutrient (nitrogen) within the plant. Note older leaves are senescing while younger leaves are still green. Photo credits: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org (left) and R.L. Croissant, Bugwood.org (right)

Most nutrient deficiencies need a certain amount of time after growth begins for symptoms to occur. Early growth is often not fast enough or of a great enough volume for symptom expression. Deficiencies are often revealed when the plant is at maximum growth or at other times of high nutrient demand such as fruit development.

According to Michigan State University Extension, nutrient deficiencies can be due to a number of reasons. The most obvious is that the element is not in a high enough level naturally in the soil. Many sand-based soils with high leaching potential are often low in highly soluble nutrients. In some cases, the element is in adequate levels, but unavailable due to pH being too high or too low or the soil temperature being too low for adequate uptake. Other reasons could be too little or too much water or soil compaction. Remember all mineral elements need to come from the soil and if water uptake is interrupted for any reason, so is nutrient uptake.
 
Do you or anyone got any good links or videos of this process.. I have been considering doing some sort of alcohol extraction simple.. heard the guys in here talk about quick wash or something like that :d5::thanks:in advance
hey @Lil Dab I haven't made any videos. I should really do a step by step when i do my next run.
When using the pucks the wash is so quick and easy, less than 3 hours of it just sitting in the alcohol and teh bags are clean of all the residual rosin.
It's the extraction part that is a pain as it is flammable and pretty bad for you if you inhale it over any period of time. There are plenty of gadgets on the market - but before I went techno, I would take the mixture and filter it through a regular paper coffee filter and sit that on a flat glass dish to evaporate away, it takes a long time like this - using a fan to blow air over it helps speed it up. Other times I have made a water bath and sat the glass dish in there, once the bubbling stops the alcohol is pretty much done
 
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