Old Reviews KIS Organics water only soil

@MediScrogs did you ever try the bio char and kis soil nutrients pack? If so, what did you think and how did it work for you, how much did you use with your base soil?
I'm curious about giving these a try, any info is greatly appreciated
 
@jackMgood Hey man, yes, I kicked some serious tail with it, three crops last year. Works awesomely and amazingly well!

I finished my thread in the Organics section called A Garden of Goodies, it describes what I did.

Basically, I mixed it myself with a base soil at strengths between 35 and 75%. I also did a test with their prebagged water only soil cut to 90% strength.

My belief is that 75% works great, and it may be possible to mix your batch at 100% without overdosing autos....with the following caveat:

Mixing directions say to use compost, worm castings, or both. I believe an auto grower needs to favor compost. I.e. don't use all castings since the growth cycle is so short, it will make the Nitrogen too rich. This is what I found with the prebagged at 90%, a bit too much N for one plant, but not too bad. Two plants actually, looked real dark green. So my feeling is that you need to emphasize the compost element over castings.

Apart from that, I would also say DON'T start your seeds in that. I started in one gallon containers for ten-fifteen days, then I bury them in 3s or 5s. You can use an airpot or a fabric pot for starting. If you just bury it, the roots will grow right through the fabric. This way, no transplant shock.

But yeah, I really think their product is awesome. You will save a lot of money compared to bottle nutes, will save time and get nice fragrant, smooth buds. Heavy and dense as well.

For base soil I used Oregon's Only [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG], peat and coco and light amendment. It's a light mix, maybe 300 ppm, nowhere near as strong as Roots or FFOF. Has a little worm castings in it already so I tried to account for that when calculating how much compost to add. In the end, eyeballing was applicable. Would recommend to you take notes of what you mix so you can either repeat or modify your recipe. Lol. But yeah, I'm hooked on their product and would never go back to bottles. No calmag probs at all under Led, you'll just want to ph your water a bit with something mild like earth juice down (citric acid). Phosphoric acid ph down is too rough on the microherd. The soil will buffer for you, within reason but not to an infinite degree, so yes, you should adjust to somewhere between 6 and 7, doesn't need to be exact.

I still did a couple "custom" waterings per plant cycle with fulvic, carbs, mycorrhizae, and dilute bone meal liquid or coconut. I'm not entirely convinced this was necessary though.

I did add a bit of biobizz bloom as well in a couple cases where it was needed at 35% strength soil, but when added to 75% was overkill, so I'm confident soil at 75% strength is a good number for most autos. If I were going to use a completely nute-less base soil such as Promix, then I'd shoot for 80 or 85% strength, and just emphasize compost over castings as I've said. Or, run it 100%, I'm just not sure it's really necessary.

Hope that all helps, it's a kickass product :smoking:
 
Guess its time to figure out how much I need, my grow will be outdoors. I was interested in the biochar because I can only tend the plants once a week.
Did you ever try the Biochar?? Thanks for all your help, I'm fired up about this!!
 
Biochar is described as a nutrient attractor. It's function is to provide a home for beneficial bacteria. Detracts somewhat first year just like perlite would. Some use it for aeration, but it would take many years to see a noticeable difference. I use it in my worm bins. There is a youtube two year study with a control and no increase and some decrease in yield. It is for long term soil improvement. After it's spent some time in the worm bin it should be charged enough to provide some benefit to new soil if used in place of other inert aeration.
 
Yeah that. I did use some char in the first two batches, ran out by the third. Yes, it helps provide a home for the benes, it probably helps but I'm not convinced it makes a big difference, maybe it does? :coffee2:

It's a pricey item, if you wanna spend out, why not. If on a budget, don't worry you won't really need it.

For the purpose of maintaining the plants with only a 1x per week visit, I don't believe char is the ticket. Water is your friend/enemy in that case. Are you looking for water retention? Then you need water holding polymers in your blend...and/or some of those nifty ceramic come-shaped bottle tops so you can jam them into the soil area and let them provide some water for you.

But I have no experience with those. I would never consider being away more than two days in the heat we get here. Plants need water bro, item numero uno.

Good luck bro, the KIS nutrient pack is an outstanding product, highly recommended.
 
Thank You for all your help @MediScrogs. I am going to order KIS nutrient pack today. To be clear are you stating to mix the nute pack at 75% with the soil correct???
Im calculating what I need as we speak, just want to be sure I order enough for what I need. Thank you!! :worship::woohoo::woohoo1:
 
Thank You for all your help @MediScrogs. I am going to order KIS nutrient pack today. To be clear are you stating to mix the nute pack at 75% with the soil correct???
Im calculating what I need as we speak, just want to be sure I order enough for what I need. Thank you!! :worship::woohoo::woohoo1:

Yeah man, cool, you'll love this stuff.

The mix recipe makes 30 gallons of soil, or approx 4 cubic feet. 25 gal of peat and perlite, plus 5 gal compost/castings. So for 75%, you could do two things:

1. (what I did) -- Increase peat and perlite. Use about 32 gallons of peat/perlite instead of the 25 gal. Use full nute pack and full 5 gal compost. Maybe slightly less compost if your peat base/base soil has ewc already.

**Note, 32 gallons is pretty much exactly 3 full 1.5 cf bags of soil from a shop, so long as the bags are properly filled by the manufacturer. Promix HP would be a good brand, it's only peat and perlite. Most other mixes have coco. Tad at KIS had told me that peat performs better in their tests, and if your base has a lot of coco, should add more gypsum since coco whacks up your calcium. But my OO#4 mix had coco so there you go, but peat is the first listed ingredient.

If I were using Roots Organics as the base, it's much stronger soil so you'd want like say 4.5 of the 1.5 cf bags, instead of 3 (that's a guess, never tried that). I'd recommend straight peat and perlite per the pack instructions if you can get your hands on a good peat like promix.

Depending what your base mix is, you might want additional perlite since autos prefer a good draining soil. Extra perlite will further dilute your volume so that's something to consider. Ultimately, this doesn't need to be exact, just write a notebook of what you end up doing so you have a reference for the future.
 
Oh, and when you open that nute pack to pour out...it is pretty finely powdered and is going to make a dust cloud that you don't want to breathe, so take the necessary precautions and don't dump out the bag in an enclosed space. :poof: :eek1: :goodluck:
 
Oh, option two is just scale the amount of nute pack + compost versus the amount of soil you want to end up with.

Example -- I want 4 five gal pots. 20 gals of soil. 20 gals is 2/3rds what the full recipe would make. Use 2/3rds nute pack minus another 20% to get 80% (roughly).
14lbs. X 2/3 = 9.3 lbs. - 20% = 7.5 lbs (ish)

Kind of convoluted math but gets there eventually. Means slightly more than half the nute pack. So the compost element should be slightly more than 2.5 gallons. Maybe a shade under 3 gals plus 17 gals peat/perlite to get your 20 gals of 80% mix, in this example.

How that all helps...
 
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