I'd like to say welcome to AFN! Fellow michigander here and I'm pretty excited to try this stuff as well, I know @Ripper cuts his back just slightly, but do you guys have different recommendations for autos since they don't feed as long or need as much? I'd like to get full potential out of every pot I mix up and not throw away good soil. You guys have any recommendations for autos yet for amounts that differ from photo plants...
I personally haven't ran auto flowers since they first came on to the cannabis scene a really long time ago. So I'm not a guru on auto strains and how they all tend to respond. But like you said the requirements are minimal. Genetics make a huge part in using less soil per pot. Our current recommendations are for photo growers. When running auto flowers there should be no need for anymore than 1.5lbs per grow pot. I would have to say most could even get away with 1lb. which would be about $3.50 to veg and flower your auto flower plant.
 
I'd like to say welcome to AFN! Fellow michigander here and I'm pretty excited to try this stuff as well, I know @Ripper cuts his back just slightly, but do you guys have different recommendations for autos since they don't feed as long or need as much? I'd like to get full potential out of every pot I mix up and not throw away good soil. You guys have any recommendations for autos yet for amounts that differ from photo plants...
I have some growers locally that run GSCxChemdawg.. its a slow grower nice rock solid buds but the veg is just killer slow.. he actually runs 2.5lbs per 5 gallon and that gets him through his 2 month veg to full flower.

If your from MI I'm sure your familiar with all the soil mixes going around here.. detroit nutrient company started one.. M3 medical mix.. etc.. all have short veg times or require adding excess to the grows because the soils can only be so strong the way their system is setup. We take a completely different approach that gives much longer veg times and i can promise your flowers will be denser, larger and better than any other organic system you've ran. How our system is not only setup but also amended creates a different grow from any other amended soil program.

when plants grow into super soils although they have the ability to consistently uptake, they are also forced to uptake regardless of if they want to or not. As water passes through the soils they pick up the water soluble amendments that lightly leach into the water and that alone forces the plant to alway be outpacing food along with their water. It never gives the plant a chance to drink cleaner fresh water with little to no water soluable amendments leaching in. our system gives that freshwater zone (base media area) But also allows the plant to uptake food only as it chooses from the hot soil. The plants never over feed themselves, they always have available feeds so theres never a deficiency and the plant chooses what and when it uptakes.
 
this is that guys chemxGsc kinda hard to tell from a top pic but they are really stout growers.
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I have some growers locally that run GSCxChemdawg.. its a slow grower nice rock solid buds but the veg is just killer slow.. he actually runs 2.5lbs per 5 gallon and that gets him through his 2 month veg to full flower.

If your from MI I'm sure your familiar with all the soil mixes going around here.. detroit nutrient company started one.. M3 medical mix.. etc.. all have short veg times or require adding excess to the grows because the soils can only be so strong the way their system is setup. We take a completely different approach that gives much longer veg times and i can promise your flowers will be denser, larger and better than any other organic system you've ran. How our system is not only setup but also amended creates a different grow from any other amended soil program.

when plants grow into super soils although they have the ability to consistently uptake, they are also forced to uptake regardless of if they want to or not. As water passes through the soils they pick up the water soluble amendments that lightly leach into the water and that alone forces the plant to alway be outpacing food along with their water. It never gives the plant a chance to drink cleaner fresh water with little to no water soluable amendments leaching in. our system gives that freshwater zone (base media area) But also allows the plant to uptake food only as it chooses from the hot soil. The plants never over feed themselves, they always have available feeds so theres never a deficiency and the plant chooses what and when it uptakes.
 
Ive been asked this a lot, heres the issues with wicking or bottom feeders, your bottoms stay way to moist generally. I've never ran it but if its possible to switch it to a top feed, i don't see a issue but with bottom feeding a hot soil your going to keep the bases too moist to get proper rooting IMOP. but again i haven't ran it that way and just knowing if it would work would be something i would appreciate knowing because your not the first person thats asked that.

Welcome to AFN @Kindsoil, happy to have you here and thank you for the opportunity to use your supersoil!

I had a few questions for you; do you think this would be safe/advisable to use in an application like Autopots?

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The idea was to test it out to see if it could be a more "set it and forget" type system.

Second question I had is that I've been growing in primarily coco now for many months; how feasible would it be to start a plant in a pot with Kind Soil using coco as the filler medium? My concern is that I typically feed from day 1 with my coco plants, but if you are not supposed to add feed/nutrients to the Kind Soil mix, what would you suggest for such a setup? A fellow grower suggested a light starter mix in the top layer to give the plant the initial nutrients it needs for the taproot to reach the bottom/kind soil layer. Would you concur with that statement? Would love some advice on it!

Tentatively would like to run two 4 gallon autopots with the Kind Soil, but if it's not recommended for this application I have no problem using my fabric pots.

Appreciate the help and consideration, will be germinating beans shortly and helping to get this show on the road!
 
I have a bag of greenlite from roots that i wanted to use but it has guano in it. Will it be too hot to use with the kind soil? I have a part of a bag of biobizz light mix too. I just got my kind soil and was going to be filling up two 3 gallon pots tonight.
Ive never used green light .. but heres the deal with potting soils. a lot of people think that media is too strong for plants when the majority of POTTING mixes aren't we actually test plotting mixes for customers just to have records of what levels they are at. The issues we've found is that a lot of the soils are way more acidic than most labels or websites state. take ocean forest.. they state 6.3-6.8 we tested it and it came to 5.5.. so a lot of people think ocean forest is too hot when a lot of the time its a PH issue.. especially when someone is feeding synthetics or chemicals in ocean forest it just increases the acidity.. a lot of growers would never know that because they don't test the soils.
 
Thank you @Kindsoil for your reply. Im new and have little knowledge about the different aspects of soil mixtures. I just used biobizz light mix with mine. 3 gallon soft pots with 2.5 lbs of kind soil in each. Im looking forward to using the soil.
 
:clapper:--yes!! --to the call-out on the F*ksFarms soil fraud that's been going on for years now... I'm so glad to see you find the same sorry pH results that I do; Trust me, I'm not a hater, but I've actually gone out with a quality pH probe to local shops, and shown them straight-up how sour that undercooked shwagg is, OF and HF both; I'm talking different batches, different times of the year, etc.,...:nono: Past rep' still carries them on somehow, but I see so many patients in the Infirmary with pH issues leading back to FF soils,... I puzzle that some get bags that are okay-- several here still swear by their soils- :shrug:..maybe a regional sourcing thing-? I live less than 400 mile away from FF's home base, and all I see here is badly off-pH soil.... Clearly, FF just does not care....

....
Ive been asked this a lot, heres the issues with wicking or bottom feeders, your bottoms stay way to moist generally. I've never ran it but if its possible to switch it to a top feed, i don't see a issue but with bottom feeding a hot soil your going to keep the bases too moist to get proper rooting IMOP. but again i haven't ran it that way and just knowing if it would work would be something i would appreciate knowing because your not the first person thats asked that.
----:greenthumb: Thank you for the input on this, I had concerns about it,... I think coco, with it's unique properties, is the best choice for such systems... the results from some of our finest growers here speak volumes to this! :woohoo1:
 
i hate putting companies on blast.. but your right. so... their ocean forest tested at almost the same levels as B'cuzz purple bag of coir.. heres the results.
they also have a serious serious bug issue. We also have recently used a DNA mills cork ultimate soil.. its test results were also in the same ranges of ocean forest their potassium levels were a tad more elevated than the rest but when it comes to soils like i said when it comes to direct potting mixes theres only so much you can do. the DNA ultimate soil had major bug issues as well.. so much so i thew all our test runs of that soil out because the bugs were so bad.

IMOP for the money coco loco is the better option generally if your wanting a media that is pre-amended .. slightly acidic and still carries a fairly high OM rating.

heres the ocean forest test keep in mind theres aren't professional guaranteed analysis results..MSU agricultural department tests soils for basic results and PH. These are their results from samples we took directly out of their product bags which we purchased at local grow stores.
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DNA ultimate soil
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Coco loco
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B'Cuzz plain coco
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:clapper:--yes!! --to the call-out on the F*ksFarms soil fraud that's been going on for years now... I'm so glad to see you find the same sorry pH results that I do; Trust me, I'm not a hater, but I've actually gone out with a quality pH probe to local shops, and shown them straight-up how sour that undercooked shwagg is, OF and HF both; I'm talking different batches, different times of the year, etc.,...:nono: Past rep' still carries them on somehow, but I see so many patients in the Infirmary with pH issues leading back to FF soils,... I puzzle that some get bags that are okay-- several here still swear by their soils- :shrug:..maybe a regional sourcing thing-? I live less than 400 mile away from FF's home base, and all I see here is badly off-pH soil.... Clearly, FF just does not care....

....
----:greenthumb: Thank you for the input on this, I had concerns about it,... I think coco, with it's unique properties, is the best choice for such systems... the results from some of our finest growers here speak volumes to this! :woohoo1:
 
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we get it a lot here too people swear by it.. but like i said everyone is so different thats why i hate getting on boards and giving my personal opinion cause somewhere theres someone who will always come on and be the devil advocate refuting anything i may say. All because once or twice the system i talk bad about worked well for them, someone they know or something silly like that. Or people don't take into consideration so many other things like simple tap water PH levels which can aid in slightly working to keep PH up when the medias really acidic..where someone in another area could have a low water PH in conjunction with a already highly acidic soil... which over time keeps getting more and more acidic.. so ocean forest may not work for him at all when it does better with someone who's feeding a less acidic water.

:clapper:--yes!! --to the call-out on the F*ksFarms soil fraud that's been going on for years now... I'm so glad to see you find the same sorry pH results that I do; Trust me, I'm not a hater, but I've actually gone out with a quality pH probe to local shops, and shown them straight-up how sour that undercooked shwagg is, OF and HF both; I'm talking different batches, different times of the year, etc.,...:nono: Past rep' still carries them on somehow, but I see so many patients in the Infirmary with pH issues leading back to FF soils,... I puzzle that some get bags that are okay-- several here still swear by their soils- :shrug:..maybe a regional sourcing thing-? I live less than 400 mile away from FF's home base, and all I see here is badly off-pH soil.... Clearly, FF just does not care....

....
----:greenthumb: Thank you for the input on this, I had concerns about it,... I think coco, with it's unique properties, is the best choice for such systems... the results from some of our finest growers here speak volumes to this! :woohoo1:
 
I spent 4 months trying to figure out what was wrong with my grows. I finally got an inkling it may be my water. So I started using bottled water and Bingo! Healthy plants! But the reason it took so long to figure out? My water works fine for my garden veggies and flowers! It only kills cannabis! Still don't know why, even had my water tested and nothing was too out of wack. So I use RO water exclusively for canna. I ph all my water to about 6.8. Never had a problem with ph since

realistically in those odd PH ranges like very alkaline id suggest just obtaining a different water source if possible but thats not always an option. so in those cases we recommend PH adjusting the water with earth juice crystals (not liquid acids like the guy did above) to at least get the water PH to neutral or slightly acidic. Fortunately most growers have water PH levels that range from 6.5-7.0 which is fine.
 
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