jamaican berry superauto

[BFS]

jamaican berry superauto. - A little over 2 months old

• DWC
• 600 W HPS - 17.5/6.5
• RO Water
• Botanicare Pure Blend Pro
• Botanicare Cal Max
• Botanicare Hydro Max
• PH - close to 5.8
• Air temp 72-79
• RH - 50-70
• Good air flow

I just did a water change and added mfg directed amounts. Normally I am at half as much. I fear I have been running the nutrients too low since I experienced chem burn on another plant. My TDS seem to go up on most of my buckets unless I am running a very low TDS (300). I was using tap water with a TDS over 530 before anything was added when I got the chem burn. The guy at my local hydro store tells me I can't burn them with organic nutrients. Water temp has crept up to 72 but I was getting this when the temps was 69.

I also read mention on another site that the botanicare products have dropped in quality in the last few months.

 

[Waira]

--- that is some strange looking symptoms mate,... it's K defc. looking by the pattern of necrosis, but I've never seen it turn black like that,.... I'm not a hydro guy, so I'll double check with some others, but organic and DWC is challenging to begin with; keeping pH stable and microbe pathogens seem to be major issues using organics, along with line clogging, etc,... Res' temp should be lower than 69F too,... True, organics are less likely to burn, but not fool proof! And you have synthetic nutes going in as well,.... Great that you switched to RO, that hard water was the main problem before,.. Get me a pic of the whole plant, BFS, this will help with diagnosis, normal light is best,... I suspect mix and match nutes are not well suited for hydro, and/or your nute ppm's are just too low...

 

[BFS]

--- that is some strange looking symptoms mate,... it's K defc. looking by the pattern of necrosis, but I've never seen it turn black like that,.... I'm not a hydro guy, so I'll double check with some others, but organic and DWC is challenging to begin with; keeping pH stable and microbe pathogens seem to be major issues using organics, along with line clogging, etc,... Res' temp should be lower than 69F too,... True, organics are less likely to burn, but not fool proof! And you have synthetic nutes going in as well,.... Great that you switched to RO, that hard water was the main problem before,.. Get me a pic of the whole plant, BFS, this will help with diagnosis, normal light is best,... I suspect mix and match nutes are not well suited for hydro, and/or your nute ppm's are just too low...

Here are some whole plant pictures taken with normal light.

 

[Waira]

thanks mate,... OK, she's in serious trouble, I see multiple symptoms of deficiencies,...longer term it seems,... Have there been big drifts in pH? Have you double checked the water chemistry recently, and calibrate the pH meter? well, please fill out what else is missing from above too,... https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...ill-out-first-with-the-data-that-matta.45991/

... I need to get a hydro guru here, but my initial impression stands, something about the nutes is not playing well in the res',.... it's the only thing that would cause all these symptoms,... han tight man,...

 

[BFS]

I look at the list and I cover all the fields, but in case it helps:

Problem: Leaves turning brown at edges, then losing color and then turning brown - see picts

Medium/grow method: DWC I had indicated high water temps but I was going off another tank that is elevated off the concrete floor. the H2O temp is 67 PH - close to 5.8. I have had it swing but I stay on it pretty much once a day.

Feed: and supplements used:

• Botanicare Pure Blend Pro
• Botanicare Cal Max
• Botanicare Hydro Max

water source: RO

Strain/age: jamaican berry superauto. - 71 days

light used:

• 600 W MH - 17.5/6.5 Was 600 W HPS but MH for the last 30 days

Climate:
Air temp 72-79
RH - 50-70


Additional info:

 

[Waira]

thanks bud, I PM'ed my old mentor here,... I'll see about others, as I mentioned, I'm not a hydro guy! What's the distance to the tops from the light? Just to be sure, can you look at your nutes, and see if there;s any sign of them going foul?

 

[Waira]

:smoking: hey bud,... here's what he had to say:


... " That is a strange looking problem, one I can't say I've seen before. If he's only running a TDS or 300 that's only about 150 ppm, which is way low and could account for it. I would expect a plant that old to be needing at least 300 ppm, if not more. I agree on the K deficiency plus it looks like it is lacking N as well. Autos have higher N requirements and I find a little extra N can be beneficial. Outside of their cal/mag and silica, which are good products, I'm not a big fan of Botanicare. I got some samples with my cloner and the clones too forever to root, then only got nubs. I ended up trashing them and switching to Dyno Bloom and now get roots within 7-9 days.

Botanicare doesn't make a product called Hydro Max. I found a UK company that sells a product by that name and it's an A/B bloom nute. There is another product called Hydro-Max but it's a wetting agent derived from Yucca. So something isn't right there. He could also be using too much cal/mag. Thinking about it more, that very well could be the issue.

Here's what I would suggest. Dump the system and refill with RO. Add enough cal/mag to set the ppm to around 125. Then add the Pro Blend nutes but leave the Hydro Max out. Add enough to set the ppm to around 350 (500 scale) and give it a few days. See how his pH and ppm are going. He's probably too late for this grow but he needs a P-K booster as well."

so, there's that! have a go with his advise, and let's see if the worst of it slows and halts,.....

 

[BFS]

Sorry, I confused Hydroguard with Watermax thus Hydromax. Both to keep root rot away. One bacteria based and thus dated, the other chemical. I think your mentor would agree that the Hydroguard Bacillus root inoculant is needed once I give the correct name

I have attached my records so you can see the history of TDS and PH

The suggestions was:
Dump the system and refill with RO. Add enough cal/mag to set the ppm to around 125. Then add the Pro Blend nutes but leave the Hydro Max out. Add enough to set the ppm to around 350 (500 scale) and give it a few days. See how his pH and ppm are going. He's probably too late for this grow but he needs a P-K booster as well."

What would you suggest for a P-K booster?

By the way I also have a sour crack that I just switched an hour ago from the Pure Blend pro to Maxi-Bloom. I had just topped off with nutrients. After I did that, I looked at the plant under “house lights” and realized I had nutrient burn again so I made the switch there.

I want to go with the simple lucas formula nutrient (would have gotten Jacks but maxi bloom was at the local hydro store) for now. You had indicated the organics were difficult in DWC, so.

 

[BFS]

I feel like I got this plant turned around, but I don't know if it is in time or not. I switched to using GH Maxibloom 7 grams/gallon of tap with some watermax to keep away the root rot. I am at day 91 and the breeders page says 90-105 days. It definitely looks a whole lot healthier.

 

[Waira]

... good to hear BFS! ...sorry, I missed the previous post,.... Maxibloom is a good product, so is KoolBloom as PK booster-- two types, liquid 0-10-10, and the dry, which is crazy strong, i forget the NPK#'s,....