Vlada... that's soul feeding good news on how Duda is getting relief!
...So to review, BioCanna soil and nutes, all organic,.... Ca and Mg products are separate, which is fine, and yes usually using both is often best just to cover the bases,... but how much and when depends on your water source (high mineral content water is something to consider and compensate for, with Ca,.. also pH buffering)... how well the soil is amended, and what's in the base nutes... I assume the BioCanna soil is already amended, and the nute's have some Ca/Mg in them too,.. adding more automatically is not always the best, overuse is fairly common, and can lead to pH issues and other nutrient uptake problems... LED users do find they need to add extra especially later in the grow,... Oh, and do you know to never mix nutes together in conc. state, always into water solution,.... any Ca/Mg should go in first also,...
...about pH, with these products it's true, there's no need to adjust them after making the nute solution; however, there's no guarantee of pH being stable and staying in proper range
once in the pot, even with organics.. they are less likely to go off pH, but nothing fool proof about it,... certain types of well made TLO soils can do this magic, but that's a different story vs simply using organic nutes/soil,... No matter how you grow, you need a pH meter (for liquids) and the appropriate solutions for storage and calibration, a TDS or EC meter to provide critical info about your water (along with it's pH), and in other applications, your nute solutions, and sometimes in trying to figure out problems in the grow,... lastly, and most difficult to find probably for you, where you are, is a basic soil pH probe... this will measure the actual in-pot pH, without the dubious use of run-off; finding a good quality one is a problem often overseas,.. only one I trust is either the Accurate 8 (Control Wizard, might me another brand name in EU), or a true professional unit ($$!),.... point is, there are so many things that can affect the pH once in pot, it's unwise to assume it'll stay in proper range the entire grow,.. it might, but if it goes wrong, and you have no tools to deal with it, the grow may be in danger... pH is everything, to keep nutes in available forms,... plus with organics, you need a healthy soil microbe population to break down and convert the organic nutes into absorbable forms,... I would consider looking into inoculants,... badly off pH will harm the microbes as well! Basically, pH monitoring is key to preventing troubles from starting, or catching them before they get too far out of hand!
... CO2 supplementing is pretty advanced stuff, and it's predicated on the plants growing so well/large, that the CO2 is the limiting factor in there, not nutrients... I seriously doubt you're there with these plants,...
might be of limited help if the room is very well sealed and little fresh air is getting in,...
otherwise it's a waste of time and $$,... for new growers, I always recommend the KISS philosophy: Keep It Simple Stupid--
( an old American saying, from the military I think?)... the fewer complex variables you juggle, the better!
>> plant symptoms: edge and tip browning/wasting is usually a nute burn issue,... but with the low cumulative inputs, and it being organic, it's odd to see this,.... such symptoms are pretty generic too, other things can cause this... and here's where in-pot pH comes into play and relevance... it helps eliminate or identify the problem! .... I don't see tip burn up higher, or the distorted new growth that is often part of the symptoms of nute burn, which has me wondering about the pH more now, not less,.... the high RH% may be a contributing factor here as well,... when it get too high, 70+%, it starts to interfere with transpiration, the movement of water from the root up through the leaves, where it get evaporated; this puts a drawing affect on the plant, pulling nutes and water up to the tops... in high RH%, evaporation rate plummet, something you know well if you live in humid, warm climates,... so, poor evaporation, poor water movement, poor nutrient transportation, and this can cause some odd deficiency issues to show,... Are symptoms still advancing? New pics if you can, in normal light,...
