Indoor Growing Scrog

I've got a few questions and would love to hear your thoughts:

  • When you pull the top down around day 15, do you keep it down for a couple of days by re-attaching the stake? After 1-2 days, the top often grows back up, outgrowing the stake. How do you handle this?
    • Do you also remove some leaves in that early stage, if they cover small new shoots?
  • I noticed you're watering each plant with just one 1/4-inch line directly to the base of the stalk. It seems to work well, but do you find that a single line sufficiently wets the entire coco or Grodan block? I'd be concerned about leaving parts dry.
  • Do you personally prefer coco or Grodan, and what are your reasons for the choice?
  • Do you always flatten out the plant? Is that technique best for maximizing yield in your experience?
    • Were the Jack Herers also flattened out like this (as shown on page 43)?
  • Do you use any h2o2 or air stones in your water reservoir to keep it clean?

Thanks a ton for sharing your expertise!! And sorry for so many questions :jointman:
No worries Brother! :mrgreen:
Always happy to answer questions.
I keep my tops pointing horizontal for about 20 days by adjusting my coat hanger stake daily. Leaf tucking and minor defoliation is done during that time to expose the nodes.

My feed lines do point directly at the base of the stock and I feel thats the best and easiest way to fertigate. With consistent nutrients following the tap root down into the web of roots I end up with stocks that are 2-3 inches thick which is the main reason I have to cut my Flora Flex caps in half.

I like growing in both rockwool and coco but don't favor one over the other. Sometimes I even run both substrates in the same tent and fertigate from the same reservoir.

I grow all my autos with the high yielding 420autoflower scrog method which requires me to flatten out the plant to maximize full potential. By scrogging out down to the base of the stock at the right time helps create a nice canopy of colas, and even the smallest nodes that are usually plucked (lollipopped) turn into some of the biggest colas on the plant.
The 420autoflower method if done properly will more than double and sometimes triple your yields, and the finished product is also higher quality from everything growing on top of the canopy.

Both Jacks were scrogged out but they obviously grew out of the 4x2’ tent after they finished their stretch, I should have rescrogged them into bigger tents but had too much going on at the time with my outdoor autos. I just harvested my DP Auto Creepers last week which were both paired up like the Jacks in the same 4x2’ tent but I spent the time/energy and rescrogged them into bigger tents when the time was right. Basically doubled their grow space and allowed them to mature properly.
I’ll post some preharvest pics shortly.

I run R/O water in all my reservoirs with no air stones since I’m topping off with 3-5 gallons of fresh feed every evening and recirculating every 4-5 hours.
 
Dutch Passion Auto Creepers harvested 10/19/24 on day 118

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Another 2 massive ladies!:thumbsup: Looking great as always mate!:d5:

How do the trichomes look when you normally harvest these ladies at around 110-120 days?
I'm asking this because these plants are obviously taking much longer than what growers normally need when growing the natural way for example, does it also influence the way the trichomes are ripening?

We know 'stress' can cause delays in flowering and I think that your scrogging technique together with the defols makes them a bit slower in the process. Most of them normally take anywhere between 70-91, with an ocassional 105 days one when grown outdoors in rough conditions. While normally everybody says hydro speeds up the growing and flowering.. right?

Looking forward to your next project again man!:cooldance:
 
Another Krushmoor grow :thumbsup:I should really get some girls going now after seeing these latest monsters ;)

Thank you Brother. :d5:
Would be nice to see you up and running again my friend. :thumbsup:
Hope you figured out your power problem. :rolleyes1:

Another 2 massive ladies!:thumbsup: Looking great as always mate!:d5:

How do the trichomes look when you normally harvest these ladies at around 110-120 days?
I'm asking this because these plants are obviously taking much longer than what growers normally need when growing the natural way for example, does it also influence the way the trichomes are ripening?

We know 'stress' can cause delays in flowering and I think that your scrogging technique together with the defols makes them a bit slower in the process. Most of them normally take anywhere between 70-91, with an ocassional 105 days one when grown outdoors in rough conditions. While normally everybody says hydro speeds up the growing and flowering.. right?

Looking forward to your next project again man!:cooldance:
Thanks Antonio! :toke:
I didn’t take many bud pics with my old phone and they don’t upload the same with the newer iPhone but I’ll post what I got anyways. Buds/colas on both Creepers look great with plenty of trichomes and very greasy, comparable to the 1480 gram Auto Critical Orange Punch I just harvested.
Your Auto Candy Bubatz was harvested at day 98 and Auto Critical Orange Punch #1 at day 110 but in general my autos are taking anywhere from 100-120 days lately. I’m sure the stress I put on my plants does slow them down a bit but it’s also a known fact that running hydro properly will increase your veg and preflower time, must have something to do with the consistent nutrients they get every 4-5 hours. If I hook them up to automated fertigation at day 21 my preflower pistils don’t usually appear until around day 45, giving me a little extra time to work the plant compared to your average soil grow

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Ive got the key to love. I Will let you all know 3verything about it later today.. i have the equation or the mathematical formula: 1 as i am one of the first or least what i belive, with that bing said, i could be the only one, as no one has said or clamid it. You know it’s the truth skinheads
 
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