Indoor Grow one with FD

:stir: OK, OK, Remember folks, some of us Texans have had the hinderance of being educated in the state ranked 49th on the Verbal SAT & 46th on the Math SAT. (thanks rick)
We aren't dumb, just undereducated and defensive when we don't understand something. :D

tb26
It seems to me you are overthinking this.
Remember this method is generally for people with limited grow space and that want to wait for sexing to devote more soil & space to the females.
And is based on the fact that autos like to go down with the tap root and then develop branch roots.
If you have the room to start off in tall pots, go for it.

1. Cut very bottom out of 1 party cup A.
2. Poke drainage holes in party cup B.
3. Place party cup A inside of party cup B.
4. Place soil inside of the nestled party cup combination
5. Place seed in soil.
6.Allow 2-3 weeks growth, during this time tap root will grow down, some few branch roots will develop.
7. After the 2-3 weeks of seedling growth, slide party cup B off of party cup A very carefully.
* (you may be able to see tap root and some branch roots in the soil visible on the bottom of party cup A)( in the original 1party cup method, cutting the bottom of the cup could lead to accidental injury to the tap root, causing shock, so the 2 cup method was initiated to remedy that problem.)
8. Now in your larger pot that is filled with soil, dig a hole about 2 inches deep and place party cup B (along with it seedling) into it. Most of the cup will be exposed.
*This will give your seedling a chance to send its tap root deeper into the soil of your larger pot. As it does this, it will begin to send branch roots out creating the rootball you are worried about hindering.

Again, all this is done mostly to accomodate growers with limited space considerations and to give the autoflowers the room to send their tap root deep, as the length of the tap root is as important as the width of the root ball.
Just like my wife, they want length & girth. (It is good that I was able to provide what she required) :D

Lastly, patience is good to exercise. I have been lurking on this site for months and reading many of the grow threads post by post. I have found most of the theoretical answers to my questions just by reading through them. It takes time, but once my grow commences, most of my questions will be specific to my grow or situation rather than theoretical.
 
Well i was going to quote a good bit of this but there is too much info to cover. I want to first thank the rest of the members for filling in while I am out. I appreciate the, for lack of better term, brotherhood here. Andy I really appreciate the time you have dedicated to helping TB.


Now with that said I'll clarify a few things that seem to be in question. The cup method, is for limited space growing. As we all know the tap root from an auto does just what the rest here have said it goes straight down and then the feeders come out. Now the trick here is in the soil. The light soil that i make allows for a different root structure than you would normally see. The roots in the cup do not die and would only die if you stopped watering both levels. Even then osmosis will bick up the water from the lower container, so the roots would still receive what they need in the up cup to survive. But i get better results fro m watering both. Now once the plants have sexed in the cup there are usually 3 to 4 main thick roots in there and then the rest is filler and feeders. Once the transplant happens thigs shift. Once the thick roots hit the lower light soil they start dropping feeders only. What I mean by this is when i harvest the plant and look at the root ball you see no circulating roots at all. No root bound bottom and nothing running around the sides, every single root is contained in the soil.

This is why I transplant them that way, to get more of the feeders out and less of the denser roots. This is what attributes to the size and yield of my plants in six inch pots. If they have more mouths to eat with the better they will do. Now I don't think that i could be any more clear on how and why. At this point its up to you texasboy to give it a shot. There are images and logs about this method here and in my other thread and if you have questions feel free to ask, but with respect. That's what we are about here to help each other get our meds the best way that we can. I do not like the tone you have used in here, but yet at the same time its a reflection of you not understanding the method and wanting to. So I understand that but will ask that if you have anymore questions that you do it in a respectful manner, as people here are only trying to help people in your situation.

---------- Post added 09-28-2011 at 11:27 AM ----------

Well that makes perfect sense, isolating completely, starting cup from final dirt. More ladies more better. Could not get jiffy seed start mix, "we only carry that in the spring", only thing I could find was Burpee. Everything else had some kind of fertilizer or compost. Burpee is coconut coif, with nothing added. Closest thing I could find short of mixing vermiculite and perlite myself. LOL FD, I would like your opinion, use what I've got or get jiffy online?

The burpee stuff should be just fine, personally i wish that i could get that local
 
:stir: OK, OK, Remember folks, some of us Texans have had the hinderance of being educated in the state ranked 49th on the Verbal SAT & 46th on th

It seems to me you are overthinking this.

Thanks.
I meant no harm.
 
Sending up burnt offerings to the great ganja goddess......:smokebuds:


join me in one..:smokebuds:



karma already on it's way...:wiz:
 
I'll hit that I :smokebuds:and karma sent FD I hope everything sorts its self out.
 
I'm in :smokebuds: positive vibes and good karma sent from WV ---> May the Ganja Gods be with you and keep you up.
 
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