Lighting Grounding a Class 2 LED Driver ??? MW LPC-60-1400

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

I have three, sorry to hijack your thread.

No mate you didn't hijack! You were helping

i didn't know there would only be two wires until I took it from the box!

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

You are ok bro.. If i was. Mounting this to a frame i would just ground the frame to be safe.. But your mounting remotely, so just run the wires to the cob.. You'll be ok.. If theres a short the driver should be able to handle the issue... Hence the double insulation...
Cheers

Thank you very much mate, much appreciated.

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

Thanks for the help guys.

It works! Currently testing to make sure it doesn't catch fire

Gave it a good prod with this to double check.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

Temporary earth to heatsink just to make sure!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pop22]

your still confusing the AC side with the DC. There is no reason to ground the DC side.

Temporary earth to heatsink just to make sure!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

your still confusing the AC side with the DC. There is no reason to ground the DC side.

I'm not confusing anything mate. Check out the last 4 words above.

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

your still confusing the AC side with the DC. There is no reason to ground the DC side.

Could you maybe tell me what I should have done then mate if it's wrong? I'm trying to understand and do it properly but struggling.

You suggested a GFI and I wasn't sure if that was the answer in this case. That would cut the circuit if I touched something live and was electrocuted correct? But that isn't the same as a ground/earth is it?

What I don't understand is how the light is earthed? I am aware that the driver is double insulated, but I still don't see how anything is earthed? Rather confused.

Thanks.

 

[pop22]

there is no ground ( earth ) on the AC side by design. The housing is water tight and double insulated. The only way your going to ground that device is to open it up and solder a ground wire to the internal frame. It is by design that it does not have or need a ground as per Class Two rating. The only path to the frame of the light, etc, for the AC current would be by a severe internal short, which would blow the breaker/fuse. The housing itself it an insulator rate plastic.

I'd recommend getting the HLG series driver if you feel uncomfortable using LPC drivers, the HLG includes an ground wire for the AC side

 

[Hippy_BiotabsF70]

there is no ground ( earth ) on the AC side by design. The housing is water tight and double insulated. The only way your going to ground that device is to open it up and solder a ground wire to the internal frame. It is by design that it does not have or need a ground as per Class Two rating. The only path to the frame of the light, etc, for the AC current would be by a severe internal short, which would blow the breaker/fuse. The housing itself it an insulator rate plastic.

I'd recommend getting the HLG series driver if you feel uncomfortable using LPC drivers, the HLG includes an ground wire for the AC side

Thank you very much indeed mate I really appreciate you taking the time to explain

I do have a few HLG series drivers that I've made lights with and am familiar with. I ordered an LPC driver to make a cheap single cob and only realised it was Class 2 when it arrived. I then read up on class 2 and thought I understood but then came across this video:



That's when the paranoia set in. I did also make sure it was safe by testing it etc, but the seed of doubt was sewn.

Again I really appreciate your help. Thanks very much.

 

[pop22]

Always glad to help.