Lighting Grounding a Class 2 LED Driver ??? MW LPC-60-1400

So to clarify:

No earth connection at all on driver.
Driver is plastic.
Remotely mounted.

So should I just run a cable from earth wire in mains supply to heatsink?

Thanks again folks [emoji3]


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Do not ground the frame. The frame only has contact with the DC side. The internals are double insulated in class 2 electronics

So to clarify:

No earth connection at all on driver.
Driver is plastic.
Remotely mounted.

So should I just run a cable from earth wire in mains supply to heatsink?

Thanks again folks [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd use a GFI outlet if concerned about class 2's lack of ground
 
I'd use a GFI outlet if concerned about class 2's lack of ground

Thanks again mate.

It's more a concern about the lack of any ground at all, because the driver isn't grounded. It's protected yes, but not grounded so there is no ground/earth anywhere on the light.




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I am probably seeing this wrong but would a GFI help? Wouldn't that just break the circuit if I've already touched something and been shocked?

I've never come across a mains voltage scenario that isn't earthed? Obviously I am not an electrician though! :)


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Anybody got an autocob? How's it earthed please? :)


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Guys... what about grounding frame? I see some guys do that. I live in EU.
I wire like this: MW driver to power cord (red to red, yellow to yellow, black to black). Then power cord stick in the wall hole.
But... some guys wire third wire (wire like COB to COB) from both yellows to frame.
 
Guys... what about grounding frame? I see some guys do that. I live in EU.
I wire like this: MW driver to power cord (red to red, yellow to yellow, black to black). Then power cord stick in the wall hole.
But... some guys wire third wire (wire like COB to COB) from both yellows to frame.

There is no third wire mate. Only two wires. That's why I don't know how to ground.



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You are ok bro.. If i was. Mounting this to a frame i would just ground the frame to be safe.. But your mounting remotely, so just run the wires to the cob.. You'll be ok.. If theres a short the driver should be able to handle the issue... Hence the double insulation...
Cheers
 
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