New Grower Gratefully green husband

[Unique]

Thanks @Unique This is the kinda info I have been searching for unsuccessfully. Usually it's general and not so specific. I understand it's specific to your situation and your grow madness but I consider all info and try to replicate what pertains to my situation and see if it works for me or not. I may kill a couple crops before success and I accept that. I'm not going to blame nutrients or lights or anything else. It's all on me. I have to learn to use what I have.

ohh you'll get through this, w/o killing anything... I'll tag along...

 

[Unique]

Thanks @Unique This is the kinda info I have been searching for unsuccessfully. Usually it's general and not so specific. I understand it's specific to your situation and your grow madness but I consider all info and try to replicate what pertains to my situation and see if it works for me or not. I may kill a couple crops before success and I accept that. I'm not going to blame nutrients or lights or anything else. It's all on me. I have to learn to use what I have.

yeah it's hard to find correct info about co2, most people not know much about it... I have spent years & years working with co2, I have gotten kinda decent with it.

 

[Smowkabowl]

BTW, I have a VPD chart if you would like one... it will help you keep your temps matched with rh... if your interested let me know...

Yes, I appreciate it. I think somebody may have posted one in this thread or another thread I had seen and found the relationships very interesting and would like to use it.
BTW, I have a BS in Natural Resources and have many study hours of biology, horticultural, plant physiology, zoology, entomology and every other ology out there. I understand what is suppose to happen. I don't have the on hands experience. That is what I'm trying to develop that now. If CO2 just isn't going to work for me then I'll back off, redesign and try again. Also, I have a 20 lb tank and a regulator. I attached the hose to one of the oscillating's, up high so it blows over the plants, the other oscillating is on the floor angled up to blow back over the pots. I'll get a picture. The regulator is attached to a timer to come on for 30 minutes every 4 hrs during the 20 hrs of light. I barely have the valve open. After a day the CO2 levels are Hi, too Hi. I'm going to back off today and try less till I actually get some measurable reading. I may also have to get a digital timer so I can get even more control by setting it for a few minutes every so often to try and keep levels around 1100 to 1200 at the high and 800 - 900 for a low before it turns on again. Trial and error and a little help from some friends.

 

[Smowkabowl]

but no green in them pots right? just coco in them? or even seedlings... once plants are in there with lots of leaves things will change trust me on this...

 

[Unique]

Yes, I appreciate it. I think somebody may have posted one in this thread or another thread I had seen and found the relationships very interesting and would like to use it.
BTW, I have a BS in Natural Resources and have many study hours of biology, horticultural, plant physiology, zoology, entomology and every other ology out there. I understand what is suppose to happen. I don't have the on hands experience. That is what I'm trying to develop that now. If CO2 just isn't going to work for me then I'll back off, redesign and try again. Also, I have a 20 lb tank and a regulator. I attached the hose to one of the oscillating's, up high so it blows over the plants, the other oscillating is on the floor angled up to blow back over the pots. I'll get a picture. The regulator is attached to a timer to come on for 30 minutes every 4 hrs during the 20 hrs of light. I barely have the valve open. After a day the CO2 levels are Hi, too Hi. I'm going to back off today and try less till I actually get some measurable reading. I may also have to get a digital timer so I can get even more control by setting it for a few minutes every so often to try and keep levels around 1100 to 1200 at the high and 800 - 900 for a low before it turns on again. Trial and error and a little help from some friends.

yes you will want to control the co2 ppm in there for sure... I would keep between 1100-1500ppm thats your target area to hold it at(only lights on) make sure none being used during lights off...try to get a controller then if your using tanks it will help you regulate much better...

 

[Smowkabowl]

yes you will want to control the co2 ppm in there for sure... I would keep between 1100-1500ppm thats your target area to hold it at(only lights on) make sure none being used during lights off...try to get a controller then if your using tanks it will help you regulate much better...

So, last night before I went to bed the CO2 reading was off the chart and it just said HI.

I turned it down and it was set to come on at 4am and 8am. I checked it at 945am and it was in the 500s, so I must have basically turned the valve off last night. That's ok, the one plant grew 1/2 inch overnight and stands at 1 1/4" the others are at about an inch. So, I opened the valve a itty bit more. Lights out at noon til 4pm when the CO2 will come on again. I'll check again at 430 or so.​

This was taken after I had been in the room for about 5 minutes.
Fan with CO2 hose.

​

pH pen, strips and drops and charts I understand the importance of pH but I don't trust any of them for 100% accuracy. I thought about investing in a $150 - 300 instrument but couldn't afford it right away. I like the argument about getting a couple $20 pens and replace as they go bad instead of a expensive one that you have to replace the pen @ $130 or so every year or two. I'll continue with Pen and double check with strip and liquid for reference. But I am using RO H2O. I have a Garden model RO system that adds CAL & MAG back to the water and the ppm is about 45 and the pH is usually about 7.3 or 7.5. I add a couple drops pH decrease to a gallon or 2ml to about 10 gallons to get to pH of 6.3 to 7.0 since that is what the Living Soil supplier recommends.

Well, that's where I'm at, I continue to learn by the moment and looking forward to seeing it through.

 

[Smowkabowl]

Question about pH'd water. If you have, say 10 gallons of water and you pH it to where you need it and use some of it and then the next time you check it the pH went back up. You pH it again and use some. How many times can you do that before you should refresh your supply of H2O. I have a 10 to 15 gallon cooler I fill with RO water and oxygenate with a air stone and pH a few times before I dump it and make more. I notice the water doesn't smell the same after adding pH decrease or increase.
Thanks for any input. :smoking:

@Mañ'O'Green @Hypathetical Gardener @Dudeski @mcpd_refugee @Rollin_along @AutoWonders @912GreenSkell @archie gemmill @Need4Weed @hesgone13 @Unique

 

[Smowkabowl]

Yayayay!!!!
My personal research and experience only... Lower the lights to 3ft and start from there. Also would suggest 18/6 as thats what MOST breeders suggest and theres a certain efficiency ratio. But if its not an issue go for 20/4. There is some growth difference. I personally start light cycles while the seed is still a seed. Becuse nature does.
Best luck and im sure some pros will chime in. [emoji106][emoji106]

Fire one off for me [emoji108] HG

Ok, what I did was, I switched the light to the early veg stage (from about 240w to 440w, 2 COB to 4 COB) and left it at 5 foot. My plan is, once the light is running at its max 675w, 6 COBs, I will start lowering it until it's 24 inches above the canopy. During the last 2 or 3 weeks of flower I will lower an inch at time and push the plants to finish up. If it's too much heat for 'em, raise it back up.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Question about pH'd water. If you have, say 10 gallons of water and you pH it to where you need it and use some of it and then the next time you check it the pH went back up. You pH it again and use some. How many times can you do that before you should refresh your supply of H2O. I have a 10 to 15 gallon cooler I fill with RO water and oxygenate with a air stone and pH a few times before I dump it and make more. I notice the water doesn't smell the same after adding pH decrease or increase.
Thanks for any input. :smoking:
View attachment 950836
@Mañ'O'Green @Hypathetical Gardener @Dudeski @mcpd_refugee @Rollin_along @AutoWonders @912GreenSkell @archie gemmill @Need4Weed @hesgone13 @Unique

Usually PH rises in water that is being aerated due to calcium carbonate dissipating. It is a PH buffer. I do not know what the science is in RO water that would cause that since theoretically the calcium carbonate has been filtered out. Unless that is what your system is adding back in? Water should not have a smell. It is inert. something else is in there that you are smelling.

 

[Unique]

So, last night before I went to bed the CO2 reading was off the chart and it just said HI.

I turned it down and it was set to come on at 4am and 8am. I checked it at 945am and it was in the 500s, so I must have basically turned the valve off last night. That's ok, the one plant grew 1/2 inch overnight and stands at 1 1/4" the others are at about an inch. So, I opened the valve a itty bit more. Lights out at noon til 4pm when the CO2 will come on again. I'll check again at 430 or so.​

View attachment 950821 This was taken after I had been in the room for about 5 minutes.
Fan with CO2 hose.
View attachment 950824
View attachment 950829

View attachment 950828 ​

pH pen, strips and drops and charts I understand the importance of pH but I don't trust any of them for 100% accuracy. I thought about investing in a $150 - 300 instrument but couldn't afford it right away. I like the argument about getting a couple $20 pens and replace as they go bad instead of a expensive one that you have to replace the pen @ $130 or so every year or two. I'll continue with Pen and double check with strip and liquid for reference. But I am using RO H2O. I have a Garden model RO system that adds CAL & MAG back to the water and the ppm is about 45 and the pH is usually about 7.3 or 7.5. I add a couple drops pH decrease to a gallon or 2ml to about 10 gallons to get to pH of 6.3 to 7.0 since that is what the Living Soil supplier recommends.

Well, that's where I'm at, I continue to learn by the moment and looking forward to seeing it through.

hey we have same ph pens