Mephisto Genetics First run LOS, featuring Ripley's, Fugue, and Creme Stomper

[Roasty McToasty]

Down to just the 2019 testers in coco/hydro. Gave the groom a tidying.
Left to right Hubbabubba Haze, Mango Smile, Pink Panama, and Super Orange Haze.

So I need to drop a bean for pot [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG], Would like it to be either Sour Stomper, Chemdogging, or a rerun of Super Orange Haze. Anybody?

 

[MrOldBoy]

@Roasty McToasty ...... Great attitude Roasty, you’re going do fine, we may trip a time or two but otherwise just fine ..... not like it’s first seed you’ve handled, you already know your stuff, just media different ....

Just an FYI on Perlite .....

Perlite is added to soil for Drainage, right? .... SIP Pots aren’t built to drain, they don’t have drain holes - the soil itself drains but drainage is not achieved utilizing perlite ....

Soil with perlite might wick water but the ideal moisture level will not be achieved in the 100-120 millibar range that is desirable ... Perlite based soils will only absorb so much before they drain back into themselves, the two forces are working against themselves, dirt saying wick / perlite says drain ...... thus top watering will be required and now it’s hard to determine where the dry zone is that’s needs water and how to get it there ....

Peat based soil wicks best in SIP Containers .....

When not using a SIP I still stay away from perlite ....and here’s why .....

Perlite floats and works way back up thru soil, displacement occurs ......

Lava does not work way up or float ..... in addition and very minor, lava rock MAY release small amounts of trace minerals and adding lava rock you find lave rock dust in the bag or make dust if you break own small rocks, which I’ve done .... anyways that dust aids in the worms digest process - worms don’t have a stomach so rock dust is important for them to pass thru their digest system. And remember this is living soil, worms don’t eat perlite.

Peace,
OB

 

[MrOldBoy]

Down to just the 2019 testers in coco/hydro. Gave the groom a tidying.
Left to right Hubbabubba Haze, Mango Smile, Pink Panama, and Super Orange Haze.

So I need to drop a bean for pot [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG], Would like it to be either Sour Stomper, Chemdogging, or a rerun of Super Orange Haze. Anybody?

Keep ‘em growing - always looking good!

 

[Roasty McToasty]

@Roasty McToasty ...... Great attitude Roasty, you’re going do fine, we may trip a time or two but otherwise just fine ..... not like it’s first seed you’ve handled, you already know your stuff, just media different ....

Just an FYI on Perlite .....

Perlite is added to soil for Drainage, right? .... SIP Pots aren’t built to drain, they don’t have drain holes - the soil itself drains but drainage is not achieved utilizing perlite ....

Soil with perlite might wick water but the ideal moisture level will not be achieved in the 100-120 millibar range that is desirable ... Perlite based soils will only absorb so much before they drain back into themselves, the two forces are working against themselves, dirt saying wick / perlite says drain ...... thus top watering will be required and now it’s hard to determine where the dry zone is that’s needs water and how to get it there ....

Peat based soil wicks best in SIP Containers .....

When not using a SIP I still stay away from perlite ....and here’s why .....

Perlite floats and works way back up thru soil, displacement occurs ......

Lava does not work way up or float ..... in addition and very minor, lava rock MAY release small amounts of trace minerals and adding lava rock you find lave rock dust in the bag or make dust if you break own small rocks, which I’ve done .... anyways that dust aids in the worms digest process - worms don’t have a stomach so rock dust is important for them to pass thru their digest system. And remember this is living soil, worms don’t eat perlite.

Peace,
OB

Somehow I knew the perlite was freak you out. It is just a thin layer at the bottom of the pot. I have grown in Autopot's that are all bottom fed. And perlite was used at the bottom. But that was not the same medium. The worms will not inhabit the perlite layer because it will be too wet or too dry for them. They will find nice comfy spaces to be. It will take a combination of top and bottom watering. But at the end of the day, ill make something work. Just have to see how it goes. There is no shortage of rock dust in that soil, this I assure. This perlite ain't gonna float, lots of soil on top of it.

When I remixed the soil, I found most of the worms just above the perlite layer, and none inside it. Threw down a thin layer of bark as kind of a divider between the perlite and the soil.
Guess I'm kind of experimenting, I assure you, it's going to kick ass.

 

[Organic Sinse]

Nice post, thank you for taking the time!

So I just bought that urban cowboy worm sack, looks real nice and I like the flow through design. Picked up 1000 red wrigglers to populate the sack. I also bought some bokashi, not the gro-kashi as it was quite a bit more expensive. Seemed like similar products, so I bought a 6.6lb bag for $35. The Gro-kashi was $50 for 2.2lb.

Next step I guess is to get a leaf mulch going again, and cover with straw, then cover crop. And then hang out till transplant.

Still need to get into a moisture meter, I'm sure that is a useful tool. Going to try and get a wicking reservoir for each pot and hopefully will just need to add water to the rez and mist the top to keep them worms happy. I am very confident that these pots will wick, have a wild card up my sleeve.

Blu mats may be a future purchase, kind of want to see how things go before jumping on that one.

If I can just get on base this first attempt, that will be satisfying. A home run with my first at bat, would be amazing. All due to the great coaches I have been blessed with. (that's you OB and OS).


Awesome bro, feel free to show her off in here.


You honor me water farm!! Thank you.

But seriously I am no master, maybe in another decade I may get good at this LOS thang. Right now I am student, leaning from the real masters. You know how you are. You are smashing the shit out of these testers, love seeing your updates. I could never get the super soil to make it the whole distance, but you've gotten very good at it.

This LOS is like growing with SS but with worms. Well, I guess some other stuff too. Thanks for coming along.




This is exactly like I envisioned doing it, except even better. Thank you for sharing that.

So the wild card up my sleeve is, I put an inch layer of straight perlite at the very bottom of my pots. Then a half inch layer of straight bark before the soil went back in. This has always assisted in the wicking of bottom fed containers for me. But I'll be happy top and bottom watering.



My god they look so effing healthy! And Plump!

I would put the inch or 2 of perlite under the smart pot (instead of lava rock I'm guessing), not in it. The bark should be ok. I tried the adding a blanket of perlite in the bottom of a smart pot like you mention, it didn't drain right. Kept the bottom of the pot way to wet inside. It may work with your soil mix, but didn't with mine. It way have even started some root zone rot issues. It smelled bad when I broke the pot down right after that grow.

I personally think that top watering thru your mulch and other layers is key. You want to be able to get soil organic matter particles to travel down into the soil mix from the top. Getting bigger particles down into the soil mix, especially toward the bottom is what keeps the soil working in the long term. The top watering also assures that things are continuing to break down (dry stuff doesn't break down well).

Just my $.02
cheers
os

 

[MrOldBoy]

Started girls with soil in 80-90 millibar range, field capacity is 80 millibars (lower numbers wetter) and thru continuous misting of mulch, able to maintain 100-120 millibars thru 30-35 days of grow - I would pretend I was a auto drip system and do a spray here and there and hold nozzle on sides for like 3-5 seconds and move around - I have couple heavy duty trays that pots sit on and I have lazy Susan bearings under so I just spin the pot around and mist .....

I learned how the meter worked, it’s not an instant thing, anyways every now and then I would add 4-5 oz out of cup in few locations around Pot .... watch meter and maintain 100ish to 140ish settings .... Still watering thru spray but more applied via cup or sprinkle can.

 

[Qwin08]

IThanks again OB! I've looked on amazon, but they are numerous and look like cheap Chinese chit. That one looks nice, however expensive. Ya get what ya pay for though.


Still need to get into a moisture meter, I'm sure that is a useful tool. Going to try and get a wicking reservoir for each pot and hopefully will just need to add water to the rez and mist the top to keep them worms happy. I am very confident that these pots will wick, have a wild card up my sleeve.

Blu mats may be a future purchase, kind of want to see how things go before jumping on that one.

here on amazon

Amazon product

Blumat used to say Ideal settings for cannabis growing = 120-150 mb in veg, 150-180 in bloom can't seem to find the official documents but still in some product description for the digital meter

 

[MrOldBoy]

here on amazon

Amazon product

Blumat used to say Ideal settings for cannabis growing = 120-150 mb in veg, 150-180 in bloom can't seem to find the official documents but still in some product description for the digital meter

Believe those numbers would be fine but memory tells me closer to the 100-120 range and a little dryer, higher number for flower ...... The Gals in the 22 quart containers are consuming 1.4 quarts water day and Sam Crack in about 54 quart container is upwards of 1.6 gallons a day .... Sam always used lots of water but now unreal amounts in flower ..... I just started keeping rough log of outgoing water containers.

Peace,
OB

Two plants per tent with Sam’s tent has best environment..... here’s chart - not much of a chart but it shows daily usage - this is rain water I’ve collected coming from outside into room and sitting on concrete at 68 degrees and given to plants, once Container is empty, it then gets counted, incoming means nothing.

 

[MrOldBoy]

Great video By two kids - Global Buckets, their mission to reduce world hunger using two cheap plastic buckets, a plastic drink cup, garbage bag, 2’ of pvc pipe and some string ..... Pretty amazing story and educational,,,,, hope this spawns some ideas

http://www.globalbuckets.org/p/new-designs.html

 

[Roasty McToasty]

@Roasty McToasty ...... Great attitude Roasty, you’re going do fine, we may trip a time or two but otherwise just fine ..... not like it’s first seed you’ve handled, you already know your stuff, just media different ....

Just an FYI on Perlite .....

Perlite is added to soil for Drainage, right? .... SIP Pots aren’t built to drain, they don’t have drain holes - the soil itself drains but drainage is not achieved utilizing perlite ....

Soil with perlite might wick water but the ideal moisture level will not be achieved in the 100-120 millibar range that is desirable ... Perlite based soils will only absorb so much before they drain back into themselves, the two forces are working against themselves, dirt saying wick / perlite says drain ...... thus top watering will be required and now it’s hard to determine where the dry zone is that’s needs water and how to get it there ....

Peat based soil wicks best in SIP Containers .....

When not using a SIP I still stay away from perlite ....and here’s why .....

Perlite floats and works way back up thru soil, displacement occurs ......

Lava does not work way up or float ..... in addition and very minor, lava rock MAY release small amounts of trace minerals and adding lava rock you find lave rock dust in the bag or make dust if you break own small rocks, which I’ve done .... anyways that dust aids in the worms digest process - worms don’t have a stomach so rock dust is important for them to pass thru their digest system. And remember this is living soil, worms don’t eat perlite.

Peace,
OB

Keep ‘em growing - always looking good!

I would put the inch or 2 of perlite under the smart pot (instead of lava rock I'm guessing), not in it. The bark should be ok. I tried the adding a blanket of perlite in the bottom of a smart pot like you mention, it didn't drain right. Kept the bottom of the pot way to wet inside. It may work with your soil mix, but didn't with mine. It way have even started some root zone rot issues. It smelled bad when I broke the pot down right after that grow.

I personally think that top watering thru your mulch and other layers is key. You want to be able to get soil organic matter particles to travel down into the soil mix from the top. Getting bigger particles down into the soil mix, especially toward the bottom is what keeps the soil working in the long term. The top watering also assures that things are continuing to break down (dry stuff doesn't break down well).

Just my $.02
cheers
os

Started girls with soil in 80-90 millibar range, field capacity is 80 millibars (lower numbers wetter) and thru continuous misting of mulch, able to maintain 100-120 millibars thru 30-35 days of grow - I would pretend I was a auto drip system and do a spray here and there and hold nozzle on sides for like 3-5 seconds and move around - I have couple heavy duty trays that pots sit on and I have lazy Susan bearings under so I just spin the pot around and mist .....

I learned how the meter worked, it’s not an instant thing, anyways every now and then I would add 4-5 oz out of cup in few locations around Pot .... watch meter and maintain 100ish to 140ish settings .... Still watering thru spray but more applied via cup or sprinkle can.

here on amazon

Amazon product

Blumat used to say Ideal settings for cannabis growing = 120-150 mb in veg, 150-180 in bloom can't seem to find the official documents but still in some product description for the digital meter

Believe those numbers would be fine but memory tells me closer to the 100-120 range and a little dryer, higher number for flower ...... The Gals in the 22 quart containers are consuming 1.4 quarts water day and Sam Crack in about 54 quart container is upwards of 1.6 gallons a day .... Sam always used lots of water but now unreal amounts in flower ..... I just started keeping rough log of outgoing water containers.

Peace,
OB

Two plants per tent with Sam’s tent has best environment..... here’s chart - not much of a chart but it shows daily usage - this is rain water I’ve collected coming from outside into room and sitting on concrete at 68 degrees and given to plants, once Container is empty, it then gets counted, incoming means nothing.

View attachment 1037787

Great video By two kids - Global Buckets, their mission to reduce world hunger using two cheap plastic buckets, a plastic drink cup, garbage bag, 2’ of pvc pipe and some string ..... Pretty amazing story and educational,,,,, hope this spawns some ideas

http://www.globalbuckets.org/p/new-designs.html

Thanks guys, you are making this thread very informative. Much appreciated!

So yesterday I prepped the pots for transplant, gave em all a leaf mold, covered with straw, and threw down a cover crop.

Here are the kids, wonder what's in that 4th starter cup?
Front left Fugue, front right Creme Stomper, back is Ripley's.