New Grower First Indoor Grow: Jock Horror Auto

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I am starting my first grow ever.
This grow will be somewhat of an experiment. It was suggested that I begin in soil, but due to funds I decided to experiment until I can afford to learn the way it was suggested.
I will be updating this very religiously :peace: and videos will be given as well.
What is the lighting supposed to be for autos? I have been getting mixed answers from searches... anywhere from 12/12 to 24/0 :-/

When I get home I will post the nutrient feeding schedule that I was given with the kit and you guys can pick it apart with your infinite knowledge and wisdom of how completely wrong companies can be lmao

Well, I am off to watch "Savages" I will talk to you guys and gals in a bit! :-)
Oh! I will be back with pictures too!!


General Hydroponics: WaterFarm
4-gallon reservoir
2-gallon growing chamber
Pumping column
Drip ring
Drain level tube
1/2" grommet
Drain level tube
Single outlet air pump
Clay Pebbles


Lighting:
ProGrow 180 LED System


Nutrients:
3-part Flora Kit
 
Oh! One more question, the ProGrow 180 has selective lighting.... what do I need on... and what do I need off? Or should I leave the reds and blues turned on during the grow?
 
Good luck man! I don't really have any Hydro experience, but there are plenty of others here to help you along the way. You can start the first few weeks with the Blue setting then go to mixed red and blue for the rest of the grow. Just my :2cents: here. Pretty straight setup otherwise. :D
 
What about lighting?
Squid, do you know if 24/0 or 12/12 is right? I can't find a straight answer online lol
 
What about lighting?
Squid, do you know if 24/0 or 12/12 is right? I can't find a straight answer online lol

20/4 seems to be the most widely accepted light schedule for autos. good luck sir!
 
Ok, that does not work with my sleep schedule... so I am off to buy a timer. Well, not really... but I will be Monday lmao
 
Hey man, you want to only use about .5ml or less of each of the 3 part nutes until the thing is about 2 weeks old, then keep her at 25% strength nutrients feeling out how she responds to increased feedings. Check your pH twice a day, morning and night, adjust as necessary. Keep her around 5.8.
 
You're off to a good start. Sleep when you're dead man, give them auto's what they NEED, lol. Best advice I can muster up is do NOT give any nutes until the seedling has broken soil and grown it's first true set of leaves(about a week or two after the seedling breaks the soil). That GH feeding schedule will screw ya if you use it with autos. I don't think you'll ever get up to full strength nutrients in DWC with those. That's neither here, nor there, it's just auto's seems a little more nutrient sensitive. I use GH too, and I can't get above half strength without plant's showing signs of overfeeding. Start your nutrients LIGHT. maybe 1/4 strength what it tells you for week 1 and work up from there until you see whether your plant can handle it. You WILL need a decent PH meter, and EC meter. These can be Pricey. I recommend the Hanna Combo meter. PH, Temp, EC, and PPM for 130 bucks on eBay. Any cheap China shit you buy will fail you, and your plant. PH IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING with your setup with EC close behind. Needs to be accurately checked daily. Shoot for 5.8 and don't let it swing out of 5.5 to 6.0. It's a narrow margin. Anything out of that margin and your plants will PUNISH YOU. If you don't have a good PH meter I can almost guarantee failure. Your plant will grow pretty well for about the first 2-3 weeks and you'll think all is good in the world and then out of no where your plant will start doing all kinds of weird shit. Leaves twisting, leaves dying, turning brown, black, yellow etc.... and you will freak out and ask for help and no one will be able to help you because the first question anyone will ask you is what is your PH. The second question will most likely be what is your EC. Third will probably be reservoir temperature or how far your lights are from your plant. In Hydro it's ALL ABOUT PH. A good PH meter is an ABSOLUTELY necessary tool of the trade. If you already have a PH/EC meter than disregard all that, but if not go out and get one PRONTO! Also, with a good PH/EC meter you will be able to tell exactly what the plants need as far as food. If your EC drops, it means your plants are eating and pulling up nutrients. If it goes up then your nute solution is pulling nutrients from the plant and you know you are giving them too much nutrients. Also could be that your plants are just using a lot of water also and your nutrient solution is getting more concentrated. Both good things to know. Both can mess you up if you don't have a meter to tell you any of that. So far what works for me is to keep raising the EC slightly until I see it doesn't drop much over night and then I try to maintain that level. If I push it too far my EC will go up and I then know I need to lower it. I keep my PH at 5.8.

Hope this helps man.
Peace.
Tav
 
I am getting a PH tester Monday, it is the first thing on my list. I was told by someone else that I needed to have one before the first week was over.

I saw one at the Hydro shop for 79.00 I will take a picture and post it, if I get approval I will purchase it lmao if not I will order one and overnight it.

Thank you! I hope you guys stick around :-) :peace:
 
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