Indoor First Grow - starting late

[The Plant Whisperer]

I would already be on bloom nutes.I would do half veg and half bloom and transistion over.Your not gonna get much stretch from them plants.Look at the crowns they are popping off like crazy.A healthy plant thats flowering will have 1/3 of the stretch over by time they crown out on the tops.Now youll get the small bud leaves that grow from the tops as they get a little taller.I dont see more than a foot higher as we sit if your lucky.
One of the biggest reason i hate soil cause the PH has so much affect and its hard to get right before you even plant in it.I can see a magnesium deficiency because its on the lower leaves and in the lighted areas.MAg moves through the plant very slow and needs to be in from sprout and very early on,and calcium will appear on the newer leaves towards the top.Starts with a weird leaf curl on tips than brown spots all over the leaves.If your PH in soil is to low the plants wont take it up through the roots.You can look at a PH chart and see what nutes are taken up at the best PH range.You can dump a gallon of pure calcium or MAG in that pot but if the PH is off it wont absorb it.
I personally dont go chasing every little spot or crack on a leaf untill i see the plants slowing down.
Perfect example im in DWC and my plants are dropping my bucket PPM by about 30 a day but if my PH drifts over 6.4 they will stop eating and the PPM will actually go up.
I dont think you have a Calcium issue whatsoever.Your plants are not that far in to start showing that kind of deficiency and FOX FArm should have enough to get you thru for 30 days..I think your PH might be out of range for MAG. especially if your using TAP water in dirt you shouldnt be having that much deficiency

.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

I would already be on bloom nutes.I would do half veg and half bloom and transistion over.Your not gonna get much stretch from them plants.Look at the crowns they are popping off like crazy.A healthy plant thats flowering will have 1/3 of the stretch over by time they crown out on the tops.Now youll get the small bud leaves that grow from the tops as they get a little taller.I dont see more than a foot higher as we sit if your lucky.
One of the biggest reason i hate soil cause the PH has so much affect and its hard to get right before you even plant in it.I can see a magnesium deficiency because its on the lower leaves and in the lighted areas.MAg moves through the plant very slow and needs to be in from sprout and very early on,and calcium will appear on the newer leaves towards the top.Starts with a weird leaf curl on tips than brown spots all over the leaves.If your PH in soil is to low the plants wont take it up through the roots.You can look at a PH chart and see what nutes are taken up at the best PH range.You can dump a gallon of pure calcium or MAG in that pot but if the PH is off it wont absorb it.
I personally dont go chasing every little spot or crack on a leaf untill i see the plants slowing down.
Perfect example im in DWC and my plants are dropping my bucket PPM by about 30 a day but if my PH drifts over 6.4 they will stop eating and the PPM will actually go up.
I dont think you have a Calcium issue whatsoever.Your plants are not that far in to start showing that kind of deficiency and FOX FArm should have enough to get you thru for 30 days..I think your PH might be out of range for MAG. especially if your using TAP water in dirt you shouldnt be having that much deficiency
View attachment 691465 .

Great stuff here. So can a plant have a calcium toxicity? You said you don't think I have a calcium issue but you see a magnesium deficiency. If I start feeding with Cal mag can the calcium become toxic to the plant? I did a Cal mag foliar feeding on all of them today. Lightly. And plan on adding calmag to the feedings from here on out, unless I shouldn't for some reason. The ph is high, which I understand could slow the uptake for certain nutrients, but it's in the right range for calcium and magnesium. Soil ph is just under 7. Also bloom nutrients on just the one I showed? The other two aren't flowering at that pace.

 

[The Plant Whisperer]

some folks use epson salt but calmag does the exact same thing.Its hard to give a plant to much calcium,It will be there they just wont use it.In extreme cases i can see how to much can lock out other stuff but i doubt you would have that issue.Foliate spray straight to the leaves is good.If there locked out at the roots it will help but i wouldnt do it under the lights as it might give you some weird spots.Do it after the lights go out and give some time to soak into the leaves.
Runoff is not telling you squat on the PH so i would not study it whatsoever.I had 12 plants that i was testing runoff on and was getting numbers all over the place.I had 1 healthy plant and 1 not so much with issues and the PH runoff was almost the same on both plants and PPM also.I could not nail down any consistency testing soil runoff.The best way to remotely get it half ass right is pull some soil from the root zone and use 1/4 soil to 3/4 distilled water.let them sit for 24 hrs together.run the mix thru a coffee filter and test the PH.Soil has a buffer that will force the PH to return to where it was when you run water thru it,so the runoff is telling you nothing.it takes more than a quick run thru to give you accurate soil PH.without accuracy your chasing your own tail down a rabbit hole.It would be like hydro growers not having a PH pen and watching there plants to get it right.
If those were my plants i would get a PPM or EC meter and test your water that have been giving them.If your in the 200 or bigger on your tap than there is prob no way its a calcium or mag issue.Usually tap has a crap load of that stuff in it.last thing you wanna do is add full strength cal mag to tap water already full of it.This is just one reason i hate soil.I hate dealing with guessing the PH and hoping its right from the start because it will make or break your final yield.
Did you see how long its taking your plants to dry out after you water them?Are your pots staying heavy for a few days after you water?That could be a whole new can of worms
If your plants are just holding water and not really going thru the wet and dry cycle rather quickly than there is not enough oxygen in the roots,that can cause issue.
Im not necesarily saying them spots are a mag issue cause other stuff can cause that.You could have just got a terrible batch of FOX FARM.its happened to me and my plants were shit no matter what i tried to do.you start chasing all these different things and youll end up making em worse.Watch the new growth on your plants.that will tell you more than anything if you have things worked out.Very slow growth and plants that seem to be hung up means you have issues.
I personally will never tough fox farms again.Just to many inconsistencies in there dirt.One batch i get would give me 8 zips a plant and the next would give me 1 or 2 tops.Its all about the soil PH.The PH of the soil is like the roads we use.You can have a nice ass car and a place to get to but if the roads are screwed up shit aint going nowheres.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

some folks use epson salt but calmag does the exact same thing.Its hard to give a plant to much calcium,It will be there they just wont use it.In extreme cases i can see how to much can lock out other stuff but i doubt you would have that issue.Foliate spray straight to the leaves is good.If there locked out at the roots it will help but i wouldnt do it under the lights as it might give you some weird spots.Do it after the lights go out and give some time to soak into the leaves.
Runoff is not telling you squat on the PH so i would not study it whatsoever.I had 12 plants that i was testing runoff on and was getting numbers all over the place.I had 1 healthy plant and 1 not so much with issues and the PH runoff was almost the same on both plants and PPM also.I could not nail down any consistency testing soil runoff.The best way to remotely get it half ass right is pull some soil from the root zone and use 1/4 soil to 3/4 distilled water.let them sit for 24 hrs together.run the mix thru a coffee filter and test the PH.Soil has a buffer that will force the PH to return to where it was when you run water thru it,so the runoff is telling you nothing.it takes more than a quick run thru to give you accurate soil PH.without accuracy your chasing your own tail down a rabbit hole.It would be like hydro growers not having a PH pen and watching there plants to get it right.
If those were my plants i would get a PPM or EC meter and test your water that have been giving them.If your in the 200 or bigger on your tap than there is prob no way its a calcium or mag issue.Usually tap has a crap load of that stuff in it.last thing you wanna do is add full strength cal mag to tap water already full of it.This is just one reason i hate soil.I hate dealing with guessing the PH and hoping its right from the start because it will make or break your final yield.
Did you see how long its taking your plants to dry out after you water them?Are your pots staying heavy for a few days after you water?That could be a whole new can of worms
If your plants are just holding water and not really going thru the wet and dry cycle rather quickly than there is not enough oxygen in the roots,that can cause issue.
Im not necesarily saying them spots are a mag issue cause other stuff can cause that.You could have just got a terrible batch of FOX FARM.its happened to me and my plants were shit no matter what i tried to do.you start chasing all these different things and youll end up making em worse.Watch the new growth on your plants.that will tell you more than anything if you have things worked out.Very slow growth and plants that seem to be hung up means you have issues.
I personally will never tough fox farms again.Just to many inconsistencies in there dirt.One batch i get would give me 8 zips a plant and the next would give me 1 or 2 tops.Its all about the soil PH.The PH of the soil is like the roads we use.You can have a nice ass car and a place to get to but if the roads are screwed up shit aint going nowheres.

Yeah this is my first/last time with ffof. I have a ph meter for the soil specifically, not the run off. I've never tested the run off, just my water and the soil. The plants dry every 4-5 days it seems. I'm not really counting but it's not taking terribly long in between feedings . The last time around seemed shorter for the blue dream maybe 3 days?. And those are looking good no spots on the leaves really, just the AH. Forgot to add that my water is well water, untreated.

 

[BayLee420]

calcium become toxic to the plant?

No. (but then again I am not an expert on botany)

Soil ph is just under 7

That's fine...6-0-7.0...it's a range that matter's not exact numbers.

The oF soil you are using is good for house plants and not really cultivating autoflowers. oF and Happy Frog are notorious for causing all kinds of cannabis plant issues especially an autoflower. There is really nothing you can do, but wait out this grow. Next grow use a better soil or go soil less.
I am afraid to tell you that you will be more than likely chasing your tail on every little spot or curled leaf. The best thing you can do is build a health soil or try to get out the most of what you have, A Kelp concentrate like Thrive Alive is a general purpose plant tonic. Greens up vegetation and great for bud forming. Your girls are not even in true flower yet...that's when the real fun begins.

 

[BayLee420]

The plants dry every 4-5 days it seems

That's normal for a well saturated soil in a Wet/Dry cycle...

I'm not really counting but it's not taking terribly long in between feedings

FEED-WATER-WATER or FEED-WATER-FEED....What is the FEED cycle as per nutrient recipe.

 

[The Plant Whisperer]

yeah the blue dream is drinking it up.Thats a good sign.that pot has good aeration and PH is prob a lil better.I tried a batch with Roots organic and wasnt crazy about the dirt when i poured it out but gave it a whirl.I ended up with over a pound on just 3 plants.
Im really a Hydro lover and wanted to try dirt and see if there was a difference in taste etc.i saw none really to speak of.
I have not read anything on a soil PH meter being worth a damn.Everything i have read on them says they are terribly inaccurate and a waste of time.I looked into them when we was calculating soil PH for bean fields and calculating how much AG lime we needed.what it all came down to was sending the soil samples into a co op and waiting for the results.And all the research i did on Lime was basically the same thing.It takes a few months for lime to change the PH of the soil.pelatized works the fastest next to liquid but to reach full strength in the soil it takes a couple months.
How big are your pots?

 

[The Plant Whisperer]

I would not say that repotting is out of the question.I bet he could upsize his pots and get a couple bags of roots organic or something similar and depending on depth of root ball just put enough in bottom of new pot so when he puts his plants in they are the right depth than put dirt around the sides.I bet his plants would respond instantly to doing that.Than put some on top to close it all off and water it all in.
It would definitly be something i would consider if they was mine.the roots are probably so root bound anyway he could lift the entire thing out no problem.
throw the PH meter in the trash and start feeding them half strength every other watering till they bounce back.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

yeah the blue dream is drinking it up.Thats a good sign.that pot has good aeration and PH is prob a lil better.I tried a batch with Roots organic and wasnt crazy about the dirt when i poured it out but gave it a whirl.I ended up with over a pound on just 3 plants.
Im really a Hydro lover and wanted to try dirt and see if there was a difference in taste etc.i saw none really to speak of.
I have not read anything on a soil PH meter being worth a damn.Everything i have read on them says they are terribly inaccurate and a waste of time.I looked into them when we was calculating soil PH for bean fields and calculating how much AG lime we needed.what it all came down to was sending the soil samples into a co op and waiting for the results.And all the research i did on Lime was basically the same thing.It takes a few months for lime to change the PH of the soil.pelatized works the fastest next to liquid but to reach full strength in the soil it takes a couple months.
How big are your pots?

They are in 3 gallon pots.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

That's normal for a well saturated soil in a Wet/Dry cycle...

FEED-WATER-WATER or FEED-WATER-FEED....What is the FEED cycle as per nutrient recipe.

Feed water feed