FD's Guide to Growing Hefty Autos in Small Places.

Ok guys i have been dragging my knuckles on this for too long. This thread will be dedicated to my actual grow technique. I will have everything in here from the way i germ seeds to the way i harvest and everything in between.

ill cover my soil mixes, teas, water adjustments, feeding schedules as well as the recipes for the soil and teas that i use. My goal is to teach how to grow the bud lumps you see in the small pots i use. I feel if you use this you may have the same success that i do when it comes to autos in small places.

Bare with me as i will update this on the regular, but will be locking it to get it all organized.
 
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Great layout FD! nicely done bro!

i use an air pump and air stones personally... 24 hours seems to infuse the most o2... refrigerating ur water helps it absorb o2... typically 24 hours is best... i find my water stabilizes nice at 24 hours.

JM
 
Great layout FD! nicely done bro!

i use an air pump and air stones personally... 24 hours seems to infuse the most o2... refrigerating ur water helps it absorb o2... typically 24 hours is best... i find my water stabilizes nice at 24 hours.

JM

Thanks JM i appreciate it greatly. I hope that others find the info as useful as i do.
It has brought me great success
 
:toke: Thank you for that, I have had trouble with germination of very tiny seeds, Mi5 ect. Does pre-soaking them help? I currently use a pre-soak method to wake them up. I was also told, not done yet, to place match strike in box and shake seed in match box to crack it a little, have you heard of that method? cheers mike

I have heard of the matchbox method but i am a firm believer of doing it as natural as i can. Seems that anything that speeds up a process like this cant be good on the plant. I know people have success and get outrageous germ times but either the paper towel or the direct to soil is the best. If you have small seeds. Get a paper towel and fold it into a 3x3in square wet it with warm water and then wring it out. Place it in a baggy and then in a warm room, if you have a laundry room that works perfect. In about 2-3 days you will have white tails from them this way. Did this on the last run and got 100% germ rate on my JEMS.
 
Okay maybe this is a already answered or stupid question but what do you use to attach to the pumps? A bubble stone of some sort? or just the tubing putting out bubbles in the jugs of water? How long do the bubbles/pumps take to super charge the water with o2?

Thanks for the write up I will be using this information for sure.

I use a small bubble stone at the end of mine just to keep the noise down. They will be fine with out one. I ran mine with out stones for a good year and still had the same results. Usually at about 24hrs the water is saturated, if its colder than it may take longer as cold water can store more o2 in it than warmer water.
 
Fox Farm Feed Schedule

I have seen a few questions on this as well as had a few directly asked to me about these products. Since there was a demand on the knowledge i figured i would share what i use and how much and when.

Currently i am using my own teas, BUT i still have the FF on standby. When it comes to FF products you have to know one thing these are not organic, but they do have organic compounds in them. You have to be careful with the use of them as they WILL burn the piss out of your plants. With that said lets get into the meat and potatoes of this.

Right now Fox Farms sells a wide variety of cannc friendly ferts, soils, and mixes that suit any need of the grower. It leaves you with several questions as to what to use, how much and when. i hope to simplify this for you after you read this info. i have tried a few of their products other than the FF trio but i have to say hands down that if used right as well as routinely fed your plants will get huge. There is Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom that form the main trio, they offer it in both soil and hydro applications. So they cover both sides of the spectrum here. So you hydro guys are not left out of this as the levels i use for the soil are THE same as i used for Hydro back in the day. Im sure that i could have pushed it a little further in the hydro setup.

Most autos do not need fed until they sex, most of them make it to this point before they ever need any type of feeding other than the pH water. Usually you see the need for feed at or around 2 weeks of life. You will see the Cotyledons begin to yellow and this is usually the first sign for food. At this point most begin to add nutes to their feedings to heal the plant as well as make it grow. I how ever push them a little bit when it comes to the FF stuff. I have grown out several autos and have learned from them what they like and when they like it and most important can handle it.

As you grow out your own autos you will see that they need a specific treatment from one strain to the next, even one pheno to the next. As we know autos are not real stable at this time but are getting close to it. I see this happening in the near future though.

So if you would like to super charge your autos this is what I do. But remember that this is my feed schedule to my conditions as well as soil amendments. SO if you know you have a hot soil ease up on the mix to make sure you dont burn and if your soil is plain compo you can get a little brave but less is more here.

The back of most of the FF bottles say 2teaspoons for regular feed and 3 for heavy feeding. I never use the 3teaspoon regimen. 2tsp is ideal for a 1/4 part break down.

Week
1 pH water only

1.5 add in Big Bloom to the mix at 1/2 tea spoon

2 1/2tsp Grow Big 1/2 tsp Big Bloom

2.5 3/4 tsp of grow big

3 1tsp grow big and 1/2 Tiger bloom 1/2 tea spoon Big Bloom

3.5 1/2 tsp Grow Big 1/2tsp Tiger bloom

4 1tsp Tiger bloom 1/2 tsp Grow Big

4.5 Clean pH'ed water to clear out salt build up

5 2tsp tiger bloom 1/2 grow big

5.5 1 Teaspoon Grow Big

6 Begin Flush for the final weeks. At this point i can flush for a week before i begin to see yellowing of the fans.

I like to leave enough time to get all the salts out of there before the harvest. This stuff WILL salt up on you and cause build up and lock out.

Hope this helps some of you out there and remember this may vary to your application. This is just MY feed schedule.
 
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Hi mr. FD.
Thx a lot for the tips and guides for setting up things.
Just a question, which would be the closest replace to the powdered egg shells?? I can't get that around here, and I don't eat many eggs to make some nice powder.
About the nutes, are there good organic mixes to replace FF trio??

Cheers and thx for the wisdom
 
Tiered Transplant Method

In the time that i have been growing autos i have been searching for new way to increase the size of the plant. Idea being if i can increase the size of the plant i can increase the yield. Allowing more branching and more bud locations.

I was already getting good results with just the amended water in the small 6" pots but i wanted to be able to add root depth as well with out increasing the size of the pot. This way i didnt have to germ to the final resting place. The tiered transplant was the answer to both of these as well as another.

I start the plants in either a 16oz cup or one of the biodegradable planters that you can get from Jiffy. I germ the seed to the soil directly here. I use a paper towel every now and then but either way will work. Once the seed has cracked and it is above soil, ill let it grow for 4 to 5 days before i begin the next step. After they have established a little bit of size you can prep for the transplant. i usually fill the 6" pot all the way and then remove the dirt from the middle of the pot about 2.5 in deep or enough to set the bottom of the cup in with out worry of it tipping. Then i take the cup that the seedling is in and i cut away the bottom. This leaves the plant intact and no chance of disturbing the root ball at all. Then i place the cup with the removed bottom into the larger 6"pot. Pack the dirt around the newly inserted cup lightly and then move to the next plant.

Here is the nice part. Once you have done this the area of the cup is the only thing that still needs watered until you notice the plant getting fairly big. Once it gets to a decent size, usually once the leaves reach out past the cup, i begin to water the whole pot. This method has doubled the size of the plants i am growing in the small space. Not only has the plant size increased but the yield has too.

If you apply this to your grow i am sure you will see the results as i did. One thing to remember though about this. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER forget to water both the pot and the cup after the plants begin to put on size. As the plant reaches it bigger size the plants main roots are in there. So if you forget to water there it can impact you grow.

G/L to those out there who try it :toke:
 
Hi mr. FD.
Thx a lot for the tips and guides for setting up things.
Just a question, which would be the closest replace to the powdered egg shells?? I can't get that around here, and I don't eat many eggs to make some nice powder.
About the nutes, are there good organic mixes to replace FF trio??

Cheers and thx for the wisdom

As far as the egg shells go i am not sure. I always make mine from egg shells so i have never bought them. I live near a chicken farm so i can get as many as i need as well as the chicken poo. But that stuff stinks the whole place up...

As far as an organic replacement for FF i use a tea that I make. I am going to put the recipe in here soon just have to get it together. I have used it several times and my most recent JEM's were raised on them, not a sign of a burn or def. So keep an eye out for that
 
if the oxyganated water is the key y not use bubbleponics so the root system are constantly in oxygenated water with the perfect nutes?
 
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