New Grower Dried Buds ready for curing Need Advice!!!!

[Peter Pan]

THANKS A LOT GUYS

Well the stem snaps but not dry but the buds crunchy dry not to the center of course. Do I put this Boveda in the Jar? isnt 62 a lot of humidity. Actually what should be my humidity in the jar after a 2 weeks cure?
Thanks again guys

 

[illbethere]

THANKS A LOT GUYS

Well the stem snaps but not dry but the buds crunchy dry not to the center of course. Do I put this Boveda in the Jar? isnt 62 a lot of humidity. Actually what should be my humidity in the jar after a 2 weeks cure?
Thanks again guys

You want your buds to contain just a bit of moisture so the buds can be sticky and you don't just destroy the trichomes by drying them so badly that the crumble and the heads fall off.

It's kinda like wine, with wine the water holds the grape juice and alcohol and let's it ferment etc.. where by the liquid is inhibiting that to happen.
With the moisture that's left inside certain stuff is allowed to evaporate out of your bud and certain minerals are able to develop, because even though dry your bud is still very much alive on a more microscopical level. If you would dry it too much you would kill all life in it or slow life down within and thus preventing it from developing it's fuller quality.

 

[HotBunz]

THANKS A LOT GUYS

Well the stem snaps but not dry but the buds crunchy dry not to the center of course. Do I put this Boveda in the Jar? isnt 62 a lot of humidity. Actually what should be my humidity in the jar after a 2 weeks cure?
Thanks again guys

You want the humidity to be 62% hence the Boveda 62 pack.

 

[Vas Deferens]

Crunchy is not ideal Pete, like illbehere said, a bit of moisture, so it feel sticky but not "wet". If they are a bit "crunchy", jar them NOW. It's hard to do this bit over the net, it's a feel thing, you'll get used to it after a few harvests, at least you won't make my mistake.. I once moulded up 12 oz in 10 jars in my apprenticeship, I was so poissed off....I'll never make that mistake again lol.

 

[A-Train]

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings: I also found some digital minis on ebay for 5 eash.... they worked great too and I bought 5

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

 

[Bammers]

Some good info in this thread - thanks guys!

 

[Gonzo]

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings: I also found some digital minis on ebay for 5 eash.... they worked great too and I bought 5

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Atrain, I bought 2 Caliber 3 on amazon to join them to my Caliber 4 from before, but to be sure about accuracy, I ordered 10 Boveda 62 packs with them.

In Boveda 62 jar with 10x packs inside for some time, after 48 hours readings were 67% and 68% for brand new Caliber 3, so I sent them back, and 59% for Caliber 4, which I calibrated for 3 p.points later on. Before testing Caliber 4, I was suspicious if my 62% jars were not a little bit too wet and in fact that was true, theywere at 65%, when Caliber4 showed 62%. No big deal, but still a little bit dangerous.

Now I keep 10 packs of Boveda in a jar, they do not work and will last for some time, just to sink any of RH meters inside for couple of hours and see where we are. The same with ph calibration stuff, I keep some 4 and 7 liquid and sink ph meter inside (do not reuse) from time to time for the same raeson as with RH meters. Just to be sure.