Lighting DIY mars conversion. Questions and answers here.

Also how hot do the 1812s, or even 1212s run? The 300s have no heatsink whatsoever, so I'll be getting some for those. However the vipar has some cheap looking heatsinks, and I'd like to reuse them if they would work.
 
Yes 4 cobs on the 300's. If the viper has 4 drivers then yes 8 cobs. I personally like the 1812's the most. Little less efficient then the Cree 3590 but half the price. For an inexpensive upgrade that's the ticket. Get your feet wet and then later on if you like them you can start doing some larger high wattage builds.

You will wire the cobs in series so the voltage is split between the 2 cobs. 2x50v=100v well within the drivers limits. The amperage stays the same at 550ma per cob. To figure the wattage you multiply amps x volts. .55a x 50v = 27.5w per cob. Should be over 50% efficient too.
 
Thank you for the info!
Yes, you read that right. The 300s have absolutely no heatsink. Unless you consider the 1/4in thick piece of metal the LEDs are attached to a heatsink!
I was running at around 74 degrees in my tent with just the vipar. I added 3 of the 300s, 'temps went way up to low 90s. So I opened the case to see what drivers they had, and to check out the heatsinks (that don't exist). I have since removed the glass on all of the lights, which made them remarkeably brighter and my temps are back to normal.
 
@BigSm0 I need some advice. I have a mars 48 ref series it draws 98 or 100 w through 3 drivers. What cobs am i looking at to safely upgrade? Also do you know if the reflector plates create issues? I can tell its performance is declining quicker than they let on.

I also have a mw hlg 240h c1050b that i pre maturely purchased because it was a steal.
 
Thank you for the info!
Yes, you read that right. The 300s have absolutely no heatsink. Unless you consider the 1/4in thick piece of metal the LEDs are attached to a heatsink!
I was running at around 74 degrees in my tent with just the vipar. I added 3 of the 300s, 'temps went way up to low 90s. So I opened the case to see what drivers they had, and to check out the heatsinks (that don't exist). I have since removed the glass on all of the lights, which made them remarkeably brighter and my temps are back to normal.
Does the 1/4 plate have any fins at all? Do you have pictures? What is the actual wattage? You can assume 80% of the original wattage was heat from inefficient leds and the newer cobs will be closer to 50% efficient meaning less heat per watt.
 
@BigSm0 I need some advice. I have a mars 48 ref series it draws 98 or 100 w through 3 drivers. What cobs am i looking at to safely upgrade? Also do you know if the reflector plates create issues? I can tell its performance is declining quicker than they let on.

I also have a mw hlg 240h c1050b that i pre maturely purchased because it was a steal.
Very typical reply lol. I don't know much about the reflector series besides seeing a few pictures. It's possible but probably not to easy without taking that crazy chrome plate off the front of it. @Jupiter hacked apart a few 1695$ kind lights to install cobs. Any things possible and any time you can swap an epistar led for a cob is a great upgrade.
 
So youre not sure if its safe to run cobs through them?
I know the plates are removable i was just unsure whether the cobs would be sunk into the case a bit.. If thats even an issue.
 
No fins on these, just a simple plate with the LEDs attached. Unfortunately I don't have a meter, but I believe these lights are 130ish actual draw watts.
I am excited to upgrade these. I bought them at $40 a piece, so I'm not in the hole to deep yet. $120ish for a light much more powerful and efficient is not a bad deal.
 
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