Lighting Diy cob kit Alibaba

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Hello, maybe I'll try it (it's your fault) to build my first light.
My eye fell on this Alibaba kit:


4 pieces of original Cobu Citizen CLU048 1216 3500K 80CRI

4 pieces of thermal tape

4 pieces of ideal support 50-2204CT

4 pieces of Ideal 50-2100AN

4 pcs of KingBrite Reflector KB-D82-90RF
4 pcs of pre-drilled passive heatsink Φ133 * H70mm (for 55-65W)

5 pieces of Wago quick connectors
1 piece of original MW driver HLG-185H-C1400B

1 pc of linear potentiometer 100 K TOCOS (soldered)
Cables + screws


It will cost 237 us / dollars, what do you think about efficiency? Maybe 155 l / watt?
Thank you
 
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Can't read Italian but I think I get the gist... sound like you got the lot and good starter set up. I think the citizens work better at 3500K that at 3000K. That's Just my opinion over a few grows comparing them.

Why not post the build when you get it up and running.

Have fun dude :pass:
 
There is something that i don't know..... I writed the last message in english but i read it in my language whitout translation...boh...if you read it in italian excuse me please
 
What kind for growing a fototype with thc less than 0,2% and a cbd rate over 20 %?
Maybe i May grow only 3 or 4 babies with 1 kit?
 
What kind for growing a fototype with thc less than 0,2% and a cbd rate over 20 %?
Maybe i May grow only 3 or 4 babies with 1 kit?

if you space them out with 1 foot between them in a square formation they should cover a 3x3 space with no problems, about 4 planst, one cob per plant... when its comes to cobs and a good rule of thumb to work from 32 - 50w per square foot.
 
DO NOT use thermal tape. Ever. For anything. That shit SUCKS. The only thing going for it is it's "ease of use"....which is not ANY easier than using Arctic Silver or other paste type thermal interface. That tape or pad crap is about the textbook example for what u don't want. The whole point of any T.I.M. is to move heat onto the heatsink. There is this new stuff called Liquid Metal which is the best, except it causes issues with alot of different metals, and also can cause alloying to occur. That's what happens when different metals are touching. Kids pushing the boundaries with high end GPUs and CPUs on their computers riding the over clocking limit are digging L.M. Even with the Arctic Paste, which is what u want for KAAAHBS, u only use a MICRO dot. Just enough to smooth out the microscope level imperfections. Any more, and u are actually impeding the heat transfer. Spend $7 and buy a tube for your new LEDs. Masking tape and a razor blade work perfect to keep it clean. Also, 1216s would be cool....a little something different. I can't recall seeing anyone using 1612s actually. LOTS of 1212s....Autocobs use 1812s....I love the 18² and 1825s. There is those newer huge ones that are like $100 a pop too. Citizen KAAAHBS are badass. Don't use pads or tape....I can almost GUARANTEE that u will do long term damage and get less life from them, as heat is the number one enemy of these shitz....and they got HOT.

There called KAAHBS Joe
 
Hello, maybe I'll try it (it's your fault) to build my first light.
My eye fell on this Alibaba kit:


4 pieces of original Cobu Citizen CLU048 1216 3500K 80CRI

4 pieces of thermal tape

4 pieces of ideal support 50-2204CT

4 pieces of Ideal 50-2100AN

4 pcs of KingBrite Reflector KB-D82-90RF
4 pcs of pre-drilled passive heatsink Φ133 * H70mm (for 55-65W)

5 pieces of Wago quick connectors
1 piece of original MW driver HLG-185H-C1400B

1 pc of linear potentiometer 100 K TOCOS (soldered)
Cables + screws


It will cost 237 us / dollars, what do you think about efficiency? Maybe 155 l / watt?
Thank you
Sounds good, my crappy Chinese ones are doing great so far.

Sent from my comfy chair.
[emoji16][emoji41] [emoji43][emoji848]
 
if you space them out with 1 foot between them in a square formation they should cover a 3x3 space with no problems, about 4 planst, one cob per plant... when its comes to cobs and a good rule of thumb to work from 32 - 50w per square foot.

Alibaba says that each cob will work 50w, i will read better bigsmo's post about drivers to be sure of it.
This morning i was reading your post about growing photosensitive plants...i think i will follow that :)))
 
DO NOT use thermal tape. Ever. For anything. That shit SUCKS. The only thing going for it is it's "ease of use"....which is not ANY easier than using Arctic Silver or other paste type thermal interface. That tape or pad crap is about the textbook example for what u don't want. The whole point of any T.I.M. is to move heat onto the heatsink. There is this new stuff called Liquid Metal which is the best, except it causes issues with alot of different metals, and also can cause alloying to occur. That's what happens when different metals are touching. Kids pushing the boundaries with high end GPUs and CPUs on their computers riding the over clocking limit are digging L.M. Even with the Arctic Paste, which is what u want for KAAAHBS, u only use a MICRO dot. Just enough to smooth out the microscope level imperfections. Any more, and u are actually impeding the heat transfer. Spend $7 and buy a tube for your new LEDs. Masking tape and a razor blade work perfect to keep it clean. Also, 1216s would be cool....a little something different. I can't recall seeing anyone using 1612s actually. LOTS of 1212s....Autocobs use 1812s....I love the 18² and 1825s. There is those newer huge ones that are like $100 a pop too. Citizen KAAAHBS are badass. Don't use pads or tape....I can almost GUARANTEE that u will do long term damage and get less life from them, as heat is the number one enemy of these shitz....and they got HOT.

There called KAAHBS Joe


sure, you wrote this somewhere else...i will use artic silver, thanks :)))
i'm reassured about using 1216's type.....somewhere was writed that there are some obsolete 1212 sold at alibaba...then i make this choice, but i was undecided between citizen and cree.....
 
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