so how do you know that you have increased photons? that stuff is all a different language.. I can build it but then how do I know where the sweet spot is in the dimming is there a meter?
To clarify, I'm increasing photon density compared to most available LED growlights, with the exception of very high-end lights like the BML Spydr and some retail lights built with COBs by small companies. Even the Chinese "COB" growlights don't compare.
Yes, there's some jargon to learn and some math needed to figure what you need for drivers etc. Its really worth viewing Growmau5's videos on youtube. He shows and explains things well. Its worth the effort to build a light when the same light retail would cost hundreds to thousands of dollars.
Yes, there's some jargon to learn and some math needed to figure what you need for drivers etc. Its really worth viewing Growmau5's videos on youtube. He shows and explains things well. Its worth the effort to build a light when the same light retail would cost hundreds to thousands of dollars.
Ozone69
Just some lurker dude
It was the section in the 1/7 video with the different beakers of colored water that went into it, if I remember right. Has to do with the efficiency of the COB's. When the current decreases, the efficiency increases. So you're converting more energy per watt used to photons instead of heat. The theory is that if you run more lights at lower current you'll get more photons than you would with fewer lights at higher current for the same overall watts used. The overall price starts going up typically because of the larger number of COB's used, but at the price that pop22 sniffed out I would think that changes the game a bit.
I only watched a couple of the videos the one time so far, though, so hopefully an expert can correct if I'm off anywhere with all that. :smoking:
I only watched a couple of the videos the one time so far, though, so hopefully an expert can correct if I'm off anywhere with all that. :smoking:
Yes that's exactly right. The COBs I'm using are not as powerful as the 3070 or 3590, but still a powerful LED. I'll be running them close to the canopy without lenses.
Heatsinks arrrived today from HeatsinkUSA. I have to say, they are very nice! Well machined, all edges smoothed. An excellent product!
Tomorrow I'll post pics of all parts I have so far. Looks like next week I can start building! Still working on drawings and a template for COB layout. Also trying to find a source of pre-made aluminum housings that I could use to house the wiring and connectors on each heatsink. I've looked at some project boxes but they all look cheesy.... I want this light to look good as I can make it and yet remain simple.
Tomorrow I'll post pics of all parts I have so far. Looks like next week I can start building! Still working on drawings and a template for COB layout. Also trying to find a source of pre-made aluminum housings that I could use to house the wiring and connectors on each heatsink. I've looked at some project boxes but they all look cheesy.... I want this light to look good as I can make it and yet remain simple.
Emailed Growmau5 and this is the info he sent on how he built his
13" x 18" aluminun 0.063" thick that I sourced from www.onlinemetals.com
Using a harbor freight sheet metal bender: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html
13" x 18" aluminun 0.063" thick that I sourced from www.onlinemetals.com
Using a harbor freight sheet metal bender: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html
I'm hampered by a lack of workspace to do things like that, it drives me crazy! I was a millwright at one time in my life, which in the paper industry is a jack of all trades. We built and repaired everything.
I'm hampered by a lack of workspace to do things like that, it drives me crazy! I was a millwright at one time in my life, which in the paper industry is a jack of all trades. We built and repaired everything.
