Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

[Smiffy_420]

Anyone with tap water ppm over about 160 should at least filter their water. A combo sediment/charcoal filter would clean it up some. With tap water that high you might try for a total ppm of 600. Yes it's additive 600 should be your total.

I actually have a tap filter that i bought a few years ago and never hooked up, i might dig it out and have a go and setting it up

 

[Kyote]

Fast Buds Purple Punch outdoors with Mega Crop in Cinnebar Farms My Soil.. fed up to 750ppm of MC. Highest was 850ppm with BE added. Trimmed up a bit of fan leaves just before going into 36 hours of dark time before chopping. 7 gallon bag. Hung to dry this morning.

 

[4d-Rock]

Beautiful colours on that one @Kyote

 

[Kyote]

Beautiful colours on that one @Kyote

Definitely nice genetics. Fast Buds has a good one here. The smell reminds me of grape soda :smoking:

 

[MassMom]

You can run MEGA CROP 100% all the way through solo, also you can add in PK Boost (0 Nitrogen) type product during flower time to really customize. There are a few other products you can mess around with also depending on your grow preference, but MC is essential and can be used standalone.

I usually recommend to people to do a few solo MC runs and dialed it in first, then to consider experimenting with a few other supplements just to see if it benefits them.


yeah, there is definitely a "dialing in" learning curve, which to be honest comes with literally any nutrient system. MEGA CROP will be easier to dial in compared to other products because its 1 simple product, so you are only adjusting for 1 variable which is the easiest thing to do.

Dialing in is requires because of slight differences in strains genetics, whether its autoflower or photosensitive strains, lighting types/conditions, grow conditions/environment, medium, etc... So the Feeding Chart on the website is basically just a suggestion.

So usually the dialing in process is something like determining how much to feed depending on your week in cycle (week 1 veg, week 2 veg ... week 5 flower), but its usually fairly simple. Like you might end up with something like
week 1: 4 grams per gallon
week 2: 4.2 grams per gallon
...
week 5: 5 grams per gallon
week 6: 5.5 grams per gallon
...

So its going to be somewhat relative to the Feeding Schedule, but slight adjustments may need to be made.

This is full strength, for photos, yes? shouldn't we cut in half for our autos?

 

[4d-Rock]

I’ve seen people posting various approaches for autos @MassMom but the general consensus seems to be maxing out at around 4-5 g/gal for Autos. Or around 500-600ppm. I’ve went higher because I thought the plants were asking but ended up burning and causing more issues.

Here’s a Fast Buds Mimosa Cake Auto (bigger plant in back) that I have going now outside. Been a pleasure to grow so far. I started with plain water for a week or two, did a half strength feed at around 2g/gal, then moved to 4g/gal MC sand 0.5G/gal Sweet Candy by about week 4. I’ve kept with that since with alternating plain water and rainfall.
pic is on day 54

 

[Anasazi]

I’ve seen people posting various approaches for autos @MassMom but the general consensus seems to be maxing out at around 4-5 g/gal for Autos. Or around 500-600ppm. I’ve went higher because I thought the plants were asking but ended up burning and causing more issues.

Here’s a Fast Buds Mimosa Cake Auto (bigger plant in back) that I have going now outside. Been a pleasure to grow so far. I started with plain water for a week or two, did a half strength feed at around 2g/gal, then moved to 4g/gal MC sand 0.5G/gal Sweet Candy by about week 4. I’ve kept with that since with alternating plain water and rainfall.
pic is on day 54
View attachment 1353962

I feel like this is what happen to me as well. Really seemed like plants were asking for more. Large drops in ppms every day etc etc. I up mine a bit and I never got nute burn but I definitely am thinking it caused some problems during flower. Things still turned out well enough tho. I just pulled 220 grams from a mephisto sour crack and there are still a few branches left on the plant I haven't got to yet. My other sour crack is probably the best plant I've ever grown in terms of bud amount and density which is crazy. I just started to harvest that one yesterday but I think what I trimmed so far is at least 150 grams dried and there is still ALOT of plant left lol. I'm expecting at least 350 grams dried if not more. I'm going to try to stick to 500-600 ppm next time no matter what I think the plants are telling me. Hopefully it leads to even better harvest next time.

 

[CannabisMingus]

Or around 500-600ppm. I’ve went higher because I thought the plants were asking but ended up burning and causing more issues.

 

[Nosias]

I’ve seen people posting various approaches for autos @MassMom but the general consensus seems to be maxing out at around 4-5 g/gal for Autos. Or around 500-600ppm. I’ve went higher because I thought the plants were asking but ended up burning and causing more issues.

Here’s a Fast Buds Mimosa Cake Auto (bigger plant in back) that I have going now outside. Been a pleasure to grow so far. I started with plain water for a week or two, did a half strength feed at around 2g/gal, then moved to 4g/gal MC sand 0.5G/gal Sweet Candy by about week 4. I’ve kept with that since with alternating plain water and rainfall.
pic is on day 54
View attachment 1353962

Agree 500 - 500 PPM on the 500 scale. Sweet looking ladies. I can hear them talking from where I sit. SWEET

 

[MassMom]

The problem with your statement is your comparing bottled nutrients to solids for one thing. For another MC was designed specifically for Cannabis. It works as well or better than many bottled brands. As to the amount of N, just because its common practice among growers, doesn't mean it is correct. I've not seen one science based fact to support the claim that you need to reduce or eliminate N. I've also seen "bloom booster" with an NPK of 5-50-17!!
Let's take your organic soil for example. With organics you pre-charge the soil with organic nutrients, including N sources. Does that N go away when your plant enters flower? Your plants take in what they need when they need it. And Cannabis adapts to a wide range of nutrient availability. Look at the Moroccan Hash plant. According to growers in Morocco, the soil there is so bad, "the only thing that grows here is Cannabis and Olives".

As to organics, even your no ph'ing ignores that fact that there is a lot of shitty water out there. Put my tap water on your organic plants and they'll be dead in a week! I HAVE to use RO water, so I have to add cal/mag and have to PH adjust it. Have you ever fed pure RO or distilled to your plants? Unless you have near toxic levels of calcium and magnesium in you soil, your plants will suffer.
Yes, organic is simpler, and less prone to the problems of feeding manufactured nutrients. Is organic problem free? Not in containers! Organics in containers is a balancing act between having enough nutrients to last up to say 90 days, and having too little or too much. I've seen more than one organic grow where the plants were starving be the end of the grow. Of course rather than admit that, people claim it is natural for the plant to be dying at the end. No, it's not. You can clip all the buds off a photo period and it will reveg. Other than tropical climates, the plants die when the weather changes kill it. Organics have the same problems growing with manufactured nutrient has: Grower error and lack of accurate information. Your example of buffering coco is an example of what I mean. And there is also the " more is good and too much is just enough" attitude of many growers ( and encouraged by bottled nutes manufacturers ). And yes, organic growers are guilty of that as well. If you have good quality compost which is not so easy to buy, your better off making your own. With good compost you don't need organic amendments, no gaunos, no "glacial rock dust ( which is a total waste of time and money )etc. The addition of a little lime might be needed, depending on the quality of the base soil, but compost should be all you need. For the last two years, compost is all I've added to my raised beds and my veggies and greenhouse canna all do fine. My beds, have been organic since day one, 5 years ago. I've grown some pretty hungry plants in them,like squash, pumpkins, and tomatoes. I've yet to see an issue caused by not enough nutrient availability.

Both sides have their pros and cons. I'm returning one of my tents to organic, just because I like the simplicity. But I'll continue to use MC because it works and works well. I use it start to finish and I never flush. The only reason "flushing" was introduced was the nutrient companies recommending you over feed! Then your flush out all that excess and add more??? where's the sense in that? In some one's bank account and for sure not yours!

And lastly, coco. You couldn't pay me to grow in coco! t's a great water retaining amendment for soil, it's a never ending pain in the ass as a hydro medium in my opinion. Tried it for a year, hated it! lol! Like any hydro, if you enjoy fussing over your grow and playing mad scientist to keep it under control more power to you! I have better things to spend my time on than hand feeding and babying a coco grow....... but hey, that's just me. What ever style works best for YOU, is what you should do!

Exactly!! Everyone has their own style, their own way of growing. I tried soil...HATED IT!! I found that I like to have the control over everything that is going into my plant. I love to "baby them" It is all about personal preference and what works for US.