Current Live Stoner Gossip May June July 2018
- Status
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2017
- Messages
- 8,490
- Reputation
- 1,771
- Reaction score
- 32,528
- Points
- 0
- Age
- 57
- Currently Smoking
- Gorilla Glue
Very cool!
G.Leave
Cultivators Club
Easy and effective!
I was wondering how you get nutrients to the base of plants so large without crawling in with a watering can, great idea
Sent from my SM-J320ZN using Tapatalk
G.Leave
Cultivators Club
Thats how i used to do it!! But damn, its pure torture on my seriously injured spine!! This year with the addition of 4 more plants(legal grow allows 8 plants) i had to try something!! Looks like this is going to work excellent!
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2018
- Messages
- 436
- Reputation
- 5
- Reaction score
- 1,484
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Royal Queen Runtz, North Thunderfuck, Twenty20 El Diablo
I always hesitate to tell someone to pitch a newborn if she looks healthy, and yours does. Plants grown in dirt seem to sit and stall at first while their roots take hold, so I'd give her a couple of more weeks before making any rash decisions.
There's a little controversy about the best way to do this, but most dirt farmers start their plants in a much smaller container; many like the Red Solo Cup (let's have a party); and hold her under a small light - like maybe a 23 or 42W CFL in a brooder or clip-on reflector, placed 3-4" above the plant. Once you get a good root mass in the solo cup, transplant to a much larger, or even your final size container. Some go through a mid size then final container; many argue the extra transplant is unnecessary. And some argue against anything but starting in the final size container so there's no transplant stress.
I happen to think it's best to get a good root mass started, then transplant. The larger root mass helps reduce stress with transplanting, and establishes a lot faster in the larger container when it's moved.
But you are where you are - give her a chance. She's not really going to take off until the roots get established.
- Status
