@Evil-Mobo Thanks for info. How many worms per 7-gallon pot? Will ful-humix work as a substitute to fish fert? When should I start the waterings with ful-power and fish fert and or coconut/aloe powder ?

Just realized we're in Smo's thread, I will PM you to not further hijack.

Sorry bud @BigSm0
 
@Jupiter just messaged telling me to much calcium may lock out magnesium. I'd love to figure this all out soon. In flower it does look like I have a mag deficiency.
 
@Jupiter just messaged telling me to much calcium may lock out magnesium. I'd love to figure this all out soon. In flower it does look like I have a mag deficiency.

Easy to diagnose. Go to your local pharmacy and buy some epsom salt. Use the directions on the box to add to water for plants. Done. I don't run cal mag in my hydro I do this. You have seen my clones the whole way into the buckets since I got them no deficiencies............it's a cheap try.
 
@Jupiter just messaged telling me to much calcium may lock out magnesium. I'd love to figure this all out soon. In flower it does look like I have a mag deficiency.
567d3be15ac37a0a70b58a93b0e58766.jpg
522e29b4fd435270eb057082b8273a38.jpg
useful charts.

"carpe diem"
 
@Jupiter just messaged telling me to much calcium may lock out magnesium. I'd love to figure this all out soon. In flower it does look like I have a mag deficiency.
It's so frustrating
 
I myself don't use compost teas anymore as it's easier to put worms in the soil and let them do their thing. When they poop you have the best organic material you could ask for right in your soil. If you do see what might be cal and mag issues you can always water with epsom, or add oyster shell meal/dust, or just mix in dolomite lime from the get go. The lime takes longer to get going so it's best done at the beginning of the grow. Sometimes people mistake cal and mag def for N def too which is easily solved with kelp meal top dress or watering with fish fertilizer.

The only teas I do anymore are with molasses during flower or with organic corn seeds. I have simplified my feedings a lot with the no till since adding worms and it's working beautifully. I alternate waterings with ful-power and fish fert, and then ful power with coconut/aloe/silica powder.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
I actually use compost tea's but I am definitely interested in organic corn seeds. What do they supplement in the tea?
 
I actually use compost tea's but I am definitely interested in organic corn seeds. What do they supplement in the tea?

Check here:
https://buildasoil.com/pages/the-complete-system

And here:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLslhwvXNHz5-cEQB4Y7HEFs0N65gxwLx4

Those two sources will explain better than I will brother. I'm more of a practical guy for the no till but it works. I grew up helping my grandfather in his backyard and it was all no till so a lot of stuff just comes easy to me with it because it's what grandpa used to do back in the day but it was just growing to me not a specific type.

I've learned 90% of my no till from brownguy420 on YT. One day I said you know what I'm just going to do what he does and see what happens, then boom, damn I remember this stuff. To me it's easier than hydro in some ways but harder in others. But the "experience" of it is fun in a more connected to nature way because you're creating a living soil (or should be) if you're running organics. The only two things I use in a bottle for my no til is the Ful-Power humic acid supplement and the fish fertilizer because I buy a hydroslate of it that's not as messy as most other stuff on the market and it don't smell as bad.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Last edited:
In response to a question I sent in, the following was provided by Victor, Amare Technology, manufacturers of COB/LED combination lights (and LEDs-only too), with permission kindly given to post on AFN:

Cannabis has a light saturation point of ~1500umol/sec/m2 with Equatorial sativas up to ~1750umol/sec/m2. For veg, we recommend ~200-600umol. For the SS150 @24" [referring to 150 watt draw LED] is optimum. Flower @~1000-1200umol@top canopy. The average par should be ~400umol for veg and ~900umol for flower. The minimum average ppfd should be 800umol , ~400umol at the edge of the footprint and ~400umol at the bottom of canopy for flowering. To calculate the average par(ppfd) @top canopy, you add up the total numbers of spot measurement similar to the attached ppfd mapping for the Pro4 and handwritten Pro9 to show how the average par(ppfd) is calculated. The total ppfd measurements are then divided by the number of spot measurements to arrive at the average par(ppfd).
 
For photo period receiving 12 hours of light per day.
 
@BigSm0 do you have PAR meter? Do you measure your lights? What numbers did you get at veg/flower?
 
Back
Top