New Grower Candy Cane Auto - Mega Crop - Promix HP

@BCBUDY I grow in Rock Wool which is the definition of soilless and I inoculate it with Mykos because the roots are going to create a microcosm of microbes on their own so it is best to start them off with the good guys.

I think you should bring the PH down to 5.8 - 6.1.

The coloration may just be what is called "variegation" it is genetic. don't go chasing symptoms real or unreal at this stage of growth you are likely to do more harm than good.
OK cool, thanks @Mañ'O'Green, I was actually wondering if it may just be a genetic thing. But I agree, I don't want to go chasing symptoms this early.

Variegation, never heard of it, so I'm glad I just learned something new, thanks again!!!

Next watering, I'll lower it to 5.8. I'm a firm believer in pH staggering, so I'll make sure I do that next time. Thanks for all the help friend!!!
 
Variegation is the appearance of differently coloured zones in the leaves, and sometimes the stems, of plants. Variegated leaves occur rarely in nature but are found in a number of house plants.
 
Variegation is the appearance of differently coloured zones in the leaves, and sometimes the stems, of plants. Variegated leaves occur rarely in nature but are found in a number of house plants.
Oh! Very interesting. Well hopefully my plants grow out of whatever is causing the discolouration. Either the PH is off and they're angry with me or it's just a "terrible toddler" phase.
 
Water the whole pot! the microbes in the soil need moisture to function. Sometimes when soil especially coco get dry it becomes hydrophobic - repels water instead of holding it. If that happens use some yucca powder in your fertigation; it is a natural surfactant.

The other thing is roots grow way faster than most peeps realize but if they hit dry soil they will stop growing! This may stunt a plant some.

One of the best ways to learn when and how much to water is by weight. When you first fill your pot with fresh soil weigh it and write it down then slowly water all the pot will hold. Do this slowly over time to get it as wet as you can without much run-off. Now weigh it again and write it down. You now know the dry weight and the wet weight. Subtract the dry weight from the wet and that difference is the maximum water weight the pot will hold. Water/fertigate when when you are at 40% of that water weight. For example the pot weighs 5 pounds dry 10 pounds wet so 5 pounds of water 40% of 5 pounds is 2 pounds so when the pot weighs the dry weight plus 2 pounds it is time to water/fertigate > 3 pounds. Remember to water to just a little runoff in soil and ~20% in coco.

are we suppose to water the whole 5 gallon till run off?
i thought it was slowly increase watering until they hit the side of pots (or atleast 2 weeks old) and you can fully saturate the soil?

kept reading about seedlings drowning/stunted with overwater pot since they dont need all that water..
im still trying to figure out the best way myself..

---

looking good @BCBUDY !
goodluck with the grow.
 
Oh! Very interesting. Well hopefully my plants grow out of whatever is causing the discolouration. Either the PH is off and they're angry with me or it's just a "terrible toddler" phase.

I suspect some issues and they could be more notable as Grow continue and I have no clue as to what they are, I’m not that smart or experienced .....

Pic attached of a variegated house plant, spider plant, I just started from cuttings - mom plant is outside and winter is coming so time to restated inside house.

Best of luck with your grow.

Peace,
MOB
 

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are we suppose to water the whole 5 gallon till run off?
i thought it was slowly increase watering until they hit the side of pots (or atleast 2 weeks old) and you can fully saturate the soil?

kept reading about seedlings drowning/stunted with overwater pot since they dont need all that water..
im still trying to figure out the best way myself..

---

looking good @BCBUDY !
goodluck with the grow.
Yes you can overwater but if you are using proper containers and soil or coco mixtures and follow the 40% rule you will not have problems. I see peeps starting seeds in plastic cups and putting another plastic cup over the top - no air getting to the plants or soil; then they stay soggy and the plants die from "damping off" or mold. Then they blame it on every thing but there own efforts.

I know that a lot of growers swear by it and their proof is the fact that many plants survive the technique but unless seeds are old or have been stored poorly soaking seeds is not needed and can drown them. Then because they need the instant gratification of seeing the tap root they germinate them in paper towels. If you look at a tap root under 200x magnification you will see the “root hairs” that grow laterally out from the tap root. These become the plant’s uptake roots. They will grow into the fibers of the paper towels and are ripped off every time the seedling is move or the towel is opened – ouch. Then when transplanting it is very easy to bump the tap root tip and damage it or kill the seedling – Why?

Put fresh or properly stored seed ½” deep in a Rapid Rooter, Root Riot, rock wool cube or similar or right in the soil. Don't use Jiffy peat pellets the PH is too low. Keep moist – not wet, and ~78°F, 60% humidity with your lights running on 18/6 and they will germinate if viable. Most strains will germinate in 5 to 7 days. Some strains take longer than others. The African sativas can take 21+ days so be patient. 7 plus year old seeds require special treatment that is a separate topic.

Also if you are using fabric pots try to move them as little as possible once the plant gets going. The soil can shift a lot when moved and may damage the roots if moved too violently. This makes them susceptible to secondary infections.
 
are we suppose to water the whole 5 gallon till run off?
i thought it was slowly increase watering until they hit the side of pots (or atleast 2 weeks old) and you can fully saturate the soil?

kept reading about seedlings drowning/stunted with overwater pot since they dont need all that water..
im still trying to figure out the best way myself..

---

looking good @BCBUDY !
goodluck with the grow.

Soil in entire pot should be at 100-110 millibar range from jump street ..... Your Soil for sure is not .......

With respect to overwatering yes it happens but keeping half of the soil dry is not the solution - IN FACT - overwatering could be enhanced by over saturation of the root zone area and no place for the roots to spread out, as they won’t grow in dry soil .....

Here is a fact - Do internet search to satisfy your curiosity ...... Four reasons for plant failure are:

Over Watered
Under Watered
Over Fertilized
Under Fertilized

Get any one of these wrong and your plants will suffer or worse, die.

Not sure this helps for this grow but perhaps for future ?

Peace,
MOB
 
Yes you can overwater but if you are using proper containers and soil or coco mixtures and follow the 40% rule you will not have problems. I see peeps starting seeds in plastic cups and putting another plastic cup over the top - no air getting to the plants or soil; then they stay soggy and the plants die from "damping off" or mold. Then they blame it on every thing but there own efforts.

I know that a lot of growers swear by it and their proof is the fact that many plants survive the technique but unless seeds are old or have been stored poorly soaking seeds is not needed and can drown them. Then because they need the instant gratification of seeing the tap root they germinate them in paper towels. If you look at a tap root under 200x magnification you will see the “root hairs” that grow laterally out from the tap root. These become the plant’s uptake roots. They will grow into the fibers of the paper towels and are ripped off every time the seedling is move or the towel is opened – ouch. Then when transplanting it is very easy to bump the tap root tip and damage it or kill the seedling – Why?

Put fresh or properly stored seed ½” deep in a Rapid Rooter, Root Riot, rock wool cube or similar or right in the soil. Don't use Jiffy peat pellets the PH is too low. Keep moist – not wet, and ~78°F, 60% humidity with your lights running on 18/6 and they will germinate if viable. Most strains will germinate in 5 to 7 days. Some strains take longer than others. The African sativas can take 21+ days so be patient. 7 plus year old seeds require special treatment that is a separate topic.

Also if you are using fabric pots try to move them as little as possible once the plant gets going. The soil can shift a lot when moved and may damage the roots if moved too violently. This makes them susceptible to secondary infections.

:pass:

EXCELLENT POINT on the Root Hairs - Exact reason I don’t do paper towel method - rather soak 24 hours and then into soil ...... Another fine point is the movement of plants in cloth pots!
 
are we suppose to water the whole 5 gallon till run off?
i thought it was slowly increase watering until they hit the side of pots (or atleast 2 weeks old) and you can fully saturate the soil?

kept reading about seedlings drowning/stunted with overwater pot since they dont need all that water..
im still trying to figure out the best way myself..

---

looking good @BCBUDY !
goodluck with the grow.
So we're both trying to figure this out, but I do know that it's ok to water the whole pot, even until a bit of run-off, this early, the trick is simply not watering too often. As in, the soil/medium is still wet to the touch. Re-watering while it's still wet will drown the plants.

I just wasn't sure if it was necessary to water the whole pot because of wasting water and nutrients. That said, I did a (failed) organic living soil grow and with the insane amount of research I did, everything was telling me you want to water the whole pot right from the start so that all the beneficial microbes and bacteria can start doing what they do, right away.

Didn't know it works the same with soilless, until @Mañ'O'Green said so, but it makes sense, in fact it makes even more sense when using something organic like MegaCrop.

And by watering the whole pot from the start, every time I go to water around the edges of the pot, the water sucks in air and pushes fine, nutrient enriched towards the root ball. And so as you keep doing that, it's almost like refreshing the soil that's in the root ball.

Here's a link to a very interesting article "the proper way to water potted plants":

Anyways, the article made sense to me, but I wasn't sure if it was necessary to start that method this early or not.
 
Autos have a short time frame to grow, flower and reproduce, messing with the roots at anytime is a bad idea. By that I mean transplanting or potting on. It is best to sow the seed where it will grow so no trauma. That said the system I am using now has a transplant of sorts but I make it as gentle as possible. Read my current grow for a full description.
 
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