Dutch Passion yum yums in dwc under l.e.d

[myrakle]

it would only get confusing if you dont know what you are doing, 1st and most important thing to understand is the growth phases autoflowers go through in dwc and soil but im just gonna use dwc as this is how i grow for the example

seedling stage - at this stage of growth its impossible to get a grip on what the plants want in terms of ec so its down to the grower to provide what they want

veg stage - this is where the plants concentrate on putting out lush green foilage and a healthy root system again its down to the grower to determine ec and look for signs of plant discomfort and overfeed in the physical apperance of their plants

sexing- pretty straight forward as this is where the show you if they are male of female

pre-flower stretch - after sex has been shown they then go onto making the transition from vegative growth to bloom phase towards the end of the pre-flower stretch is where you will get the ph drop as she is telling you im now ready to produce fruits, if you have been keeping your plants on veg feed for the pre-flower duration now is the time to switch to a bloom feed

bloom phase 1 - this is where she will start to form flowers and can take 2-3 weeks for this to happen towards the end of this period you will get a ph drop again telling you im ready to gain weight

bloom phase 2- in this phase of growth if you have read the signs you should now be giving her pk boosters to help her produce mass this period can last for 1-2 weeks depending how you wanna administer your pk boosters

bloom phase 3 - after you have finished with her weight gain stage its now time for her to mature and the harvest window opens where her trichs turn from milky to amber, through this period we start to lower their feed as its a sign to the plants to start to finish off as food is running short

flush/harvest - when the harvest window is open its up to the grower to flush the plants and cut them when the have the desired potency they want

that is just a brief description of the phases autos go through and over feeding is something that normally happens right after you have just fed them normaly 1 - 2 days after a res change this has nothing to do with them switching from 1 growth phase to the next, as a grower its your job to give the plants what they need at each stage of growth to maximize their development , after a fresh res change you can monitor the ec and ph and see what direction it goes if the ec drops its a sign they want more etc etc

but now i have given the guidlines above you should be able to get an understanding of what happens at the beggining and end of each of the plants cycles so it should make growing them easier in dwc

you will get different opinions for a lot of growers on how they grow their plants in dwc/hydro like when to administer pk booster but a cannabis plants growth cycle will never change and will always be the same, the difference between soil and hydro is that with hydro you can dial-in to every stage of the plants cycle and give them exactly what they need to get the best end results hence why people choose hydro over soil but at the same time a lot of people do find hydro hassle and love the ease of growing with soil

growing is just my hobby so i dont invest all my time and effort in to it as its just a bit of fun, im pretty sure if i was a full time grower my results could and would be a lot different

hope this helps

i hate sitting here for 30 minutes typing something out that i can explain in 5 minutes through proper speech and the page crashed twice while i was typing it lmfao

great explanation, i really appreciate the time you took out to type all of that. Thank you very much. Btw i enjoy hydro as well. a lot of maintenance but well worth it. I am starting my 3rd ebb and flow grow and i just started my first dwc last week (inspired by you) , which my plant was classified as day 1 today.

 

[green greenie]

need a little bit more info mate, what is your ph what stage of growth are you at and what her current ec is also what nutrients are you putting in your res

give me the info and ill give you my soloution, also #5 got pulled for a reason but im not sure what that reason was i think it was a problem with the plants not being very stable, i know #1 was a non auto issue so with that in mind it might be a genetic problem with the strain as oppose to you doing something wrong

cheers

Hi mate

I've been maintaining a ph of around 5.8ish plus I got myself a better meter as mine died, so I know it's not lock out due to ph.

My starting ec is now 0 and I've been making it up to .4 with sensical (I read this was a good starting point) the first 10 days were made up to .8 with formulex then the next 10 days .9 the sensi cal is now .55 and made up to 1.0 of canna vega. the def was still showing so last night i added epsom salts, i need to take an ec reading tonight as i need to wait for the salts to displve befoe i can get an accurate reading. I Remember you saying that led's can cause an mg def which is why you add sensical. I'm wondering if my light makes the plants need a particularly high amount as my taigas had the same problem early on, all be it not so severe. Would like to sort this out as I don't want it to happen to the td's and they all have tap root in the res now. I think I might add some Epsom salts to them tonight.

Cheers

 

[Kush T]

Try a little Epsom foliar spray greenie.. Putting Epsom into your res sends the EC rocketing!!

Get a L of warm water stir in around a tablespoon of Epsom salts... No more than a tablespoon mind!!... Making sure it's completely dissolved.. Then foliar spray your ladies under & over the leaves.. Give them a good dousing... Then a good few hrs later, next day at the very latest spray with your RO water to rinse it off.. You should see no residue after they have dried after the rinse..

That should sort your mg def...

Sounds to me like you are using way too much cal/mg at base level... From 0.0EC to 0.4EC is quite a lot... At least 200+ppms (500 scale).. That's too much in my opinion.. Maybe try up to 0.2 of cal/mag... & more base nutes.

But SB will know better than me..

 

[seymour-buds]

dont listen to kush as he is a rookie. It sounds like under feeding to me. You should be on 1.2 ec by now. Email tony and ask him why they shelved this plant and im sure it was a genetic default. ill explain more later as im on my phone and its shit

 

[Kush T]

Ouch!!

Slapped down!!

Well don't I feel sheepish..

Sorry everyone I'll pipe down now... Before SB docks my wages..

 

[komach]

dont listen to kush as he is a rookie.

lol

 

[DWCocha]

lol

 

[seymour-buds]

Ouch!!

Slapped down!!

Well don't I feel sheepish..

Sorry everyone I'll pipe down now... Before SB docks my wages..

to be honest if he was to take your course of action there are gonna be 2 outcomes

1. he will spray his plants with the lights on and cause even more problems as the high penertraion from the l.e.d will burn his leaves making the situation 10 times as worse

2. by spraying his leaves he is only masking over the problem and not getting to the root cause of why he has got a magnesium defeciency so its only gonna be a temporay fix

my soloution

1. test auto #5 was pulled for a reason so it might not even be anything your doing wrong

2. your using r/o water with canna aqua nutrients which are designed for hard water this will mean it has less cal/mag in the bottles than if you were was using soft water nutrients, the only reason i know this is becasue 90% of re-sellers in the uk only stock canna aqua in hard water format cause of our tap water unless of course you did buy canna aqua soft water nutrients in which case go to the next option lol

3. your only feeding her on 1.0ec where if you was to follow the canna aqua grow guide by week 3-4 you should be on 1.1 -1.4, this is the recommened dosage for just normal feeding, i have no idea if your plant is an agressive feeder or a light feeder but sticking in the normal range is good , if you are under feeding then their will still not be enough cal/mag in the base feed to sustain growth hence the defeciency
r/o water is like starting with nothing so you have the opertunity to make up what ever ratios you want but id also look into getting soft water nutrients

4.i always warm my calibration fluid to 75 degress before doing a calibration check and its always stored in a glass of water at the end of every use because the probe is ALWAYS meant to be kept moist for accuracy purposes, IF IT DRIES IT DIES, ph wants to be 5.6-5.7 in veg and 5.8 - 6.0 flower

5. if your gonna take kush-t's advice then spray your plants after lights out so it gives them time to absorb what they need and the rest to evapourate

good luck

 

[seymour-buds]

ok guys im gonna need your help on this.......

it getting to crunch time in my grow room as none of my plants have finished their pre-flower stretch and already its getting tight for space, i have 2 days before the yum yums get a fresh res change but the bad news is only 1 of them is gonna get a clean res while the other one is outta there, the only thing is i honestly cannot decide who should stay and who should go, if it wasnt for the white sirius i would keep both but that behemoth wants more room

here is the situation......

soooooo do i keep the blueberry in the middle or do i keep the blueberry on the right hand side ??

this is the yum yum number 1

or will it be yum yum number 2

 

[TaNg]

Girl on the right for me dude.