Hi Fairlynew,

Aside from flushing at the end of your cycle, there is really no right or wrong way to grow your plant if things look healthy.

In my honest opinion, your feed schedule shouldn't have to be that complicated. Because of the number of grow products that have come into our office over the years, we've had the opportunity to try pretty much every method of growing and the biggest piece of advice we have is to reduce the amount of steps you have to take (across the board) to get to the end of your grow. It's kind of like how new dishwashers always seem to break down in ridiculous ways because of complex electronics, and that ugly old dishwasher does the same job but if something does happen, it's cheap and easy to fix.

Cannabis is an extremely sensitive plant, especially autoflowers, and you can see this if you just brush up against the secondary stalks of a bigger plant (they'll lose rigidity and start to droop...assuming it's not staked).

Our recommendation would be to keep the feed concentration the same, relative to the size of the plant. Start with a lower concentration (5ml/G) when the plant is small and increase the dosage weekly by 1ml/G until you hit (10ml/G). In our experience 1250 to 1350 ppm is the maximum your plant needs, and any more will just increase the risk of excessive salt buildup or lockout. Once you hit the 10ml/G level, there's no need to increase the concentration, only increase the frequency of your feed, which is to be expected when a plant gets bigger.

You already mentioned flushing but for those who don't know....FLUSHFLUSHFLUSHFLUSHFLUSH...for AT LEAST one week and up to two weeks. If you're using anything (organic or synthetic) with nitrogen or magnesium in it, you need to give the plant time to metabolize them or you risk a final product that tastes like chemicals (nitrogen) or sparks and pops when you smoke it (magnesium). Other than that:

- always cut off fan leaves that are yellow and dying (they never come back)
- always keep plant matter off your soil bed
- gauge your plant's need for water/food by the weight of the pot, not what it looks like on the top of the soil.
- make sure you're enjoying the grow experience; I don't believe in the whole "positive energy" thing, more that people tend to make errors and spontaneous decisions they regret when they're stressed out.

Hope that helps guys and gals,

Joel
Hello Joel do you feed then water in between feeds when using soilless mix in your schedule?
 
I don't see anything about pH on the feed schedule.

5.8 for hydro (DWC, ebb/flow, etc), 6.3 for soil and coco. You've got a little flex room with the formula pH, but keep it consistent through the whole schedule.

Some people say you should drop the pH for flower but this serves no purpose. The plant would never encounter a significant change in soil pH in the wild and if it did, it would only manage to shock the plant and stunt growth during the first week of flower.
 
Hi again Joel,

2 questions about your nutrients:

1. I have a reverse osmosis water system which makes my PPM very low. While I am using the Remo program, will I need to add any trace elements back to the water like calcium and magnesium (or anything else), or will my plants get everything they need solely from my near-zerp PPM water and the Remo nutes?

2. I am using a feminized autoflower starting from seed. The seed folks report that total time to harvest is 90 days. A helpful lady at your office told me on the phone that since I am using soil that starts out pretty nutrient rich already (Fox Farms Ocean Forrest), that I should consider giving the plant no Remo nutes for the first 4 weeks in order to avoid burning the plants. However, if I wait 4 weeks before starting the 12 week Remo nute program (4 weeks for veg / 8 weeks for flower), I will either be waiting too long to harvest, or I will be giving the plants the veg schedule well into the first 1/2 of the flowering phase. Can you elaborate on what I should do please?

Any advise you can give me about the above two issues would be greatly appreciated.

I responded to your PM
 
Hello Joel do you feed then water in between feeds when using soilless mix in your schedule?

ALWAYS feed-feed-water (2 feed/1 water) or feed-feed-feed-water (depending on the size of your plants), over the course of each week..

If you feed-water-feed-water, your soil ppm will fluctuate and you get spikes and deficiencies, leading to lower yield.
 
I am use to feeding every time Joel 1/4 to 1/2 of base nutrients and additives right through until the end unless a certain pheno or strain and needs a drink of water then I give it a drink. I was using G.P. nutrients they want you to water then feed then water then feed that is why I asked. I just did not see that on your calculator Thank you for the information this is going to work really good.
 
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I like the sound of your nutrient line but, I'm disappointed that someone like you falls for the "flushing" myth! Flushing does NOTHING but starve your plant just when it needs nutrients most! And if you say otherwise, I want science to back it. There is nothing removed from a plant by flushing, the only thing depleted is sugars. And you can flush for 2 weeks and guess what? Your buds are still very much alive and full of..........everything! Where do you think those final nutrients are transported to? I've looked and read a fair amount on this subject, what you put into your plant, stays in your plant.

"or sparks and pops when you smoke it (magnesium)" And that is the oldest weed myth yet! I want you to make a pile of 50 ppms of magnesium and light it on fire........... no way in hell its magnesium! sparking and popping are the bodies of mites and bugs exploding when the water in them turns to steam.

I work hard on this forum to educate people about the never ending garden myths people have been mis-informed by. The problem is, no one ever questions statements like this and when people like Jorge etc say it, it must be true right?

Hi Fairlynew,

Aside from flushing at the end of your cycle, there is really no right or wrong way to grow your plant if things look healthy.

In my honest opinion, your feed schedule shouldn't have to be that complicated. Because of the number of grow products that have come into our office over the years, we've had the opportunity to try pretty much every method of growing and the biggest piece of advice we have is to reduce the amount of steps you have to take (across the board) to get to the end of your grow. It's kind of like how new dishwashers always seem to break down in ridiculous ways because of complex electronics, and that ugly old dishwasher does the same job but if something does happen, it's cheap and easy to fix.

Cannabis is an extremely sensitive plant, especially autoflowers, and you can see this if you just brush up against the secondary stalks of a bigger plant (they'll lose rigidity and start to droop...assuming it's not staked).

"or sparks and pops when you smoke it (magnesium)" ok I want you to make a 50 ppm pile of magnesium and light it on fire............ come on! Sparking and popping is The bodies of mites and other bugs
























Our recommendation would be to keep the feed concentration the same, relative to the size of the plant. Start with a lower concentration (5ml/G) when the plant is small and increase the dosage weekly by 1ml/G until you hit (10ml/G). In our experience 1250 to 1350 ppm is the maximum your plant needs, and any more will just increase the risk of excessive salt buildup or lockout. Once you hit the 10ml/G level, there's no need to increase the concentration, only increase the frequency of your feed, which is to be expected when a plant gets bigger.

You already mentioned flushing but for those who don't know....FLUSHFLUSHFLUSHFLUSHFLUSH...for AT LEAST one week and up to two weeks. If you're using anything (organic or synthetic) with nitrogen or magnesium in it, you need to give the plaexpl




nt time to metabolize them or you risk a final product that tastes like chemicals (nitrogen) or sparks and pops when you smoke it (magnesium). Other than that:

- always cut off fan leaves that are yellow and dying (they never come back)
- always keep plant matter off your soil bed
- gauge your plant's need for water/food by the weight of the pot, not what it looks like on the top of the soil.
- make sure you're enjoying the grow experience; I don't believe in the whole "positive energy" thing, more that people tend to make errors and spontaneous decisions they regret when they're stressed out.

Hope that helps guys and gals,

Joel
 
@pop22 can you upload evidence for your words? One month ago you write in other forum, I was asking you, but you didn't reply. Like all of you, I want top quallity products, too. And knowledge behind it, of course.
 
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