Understanding pH runoff - 4 plants, 2 have identical as input, other 2 are at least .5 higher

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I have 4 different strains going in coco. 1 nch, 1 MS, 1 CDLC, 1 SamOG. The only differences I can come up with are the rootmasses/nutrient uptake are smaller in the cdlc/samog as here pH runoff is about the same as whatever I put in. The NCH tends to be .5-.7 higher and the MS tends to be .4-.6 higher. Their roots are definitely far larger as they are poking out all over the fabric at this point.

The TDS/EC runoff is generally a smidge lower than what goes in so as I understand it there is no large salt buildups occurring.

What would cause runoff to be higher in the 2 bigger plants?
 
Anyone with any insight or need more info? I'm, beginning to get some deficiencies that look like potentially calcium issue (dark brown spots near tips but then also some leaves with a little yellowing around the edges of the first 1/4 of the leaf) and these are on the plant that I've had almost little in the way of needing to do things for and is insanely bushy and robust.

I considered the pH being a potential problem to cause it due to lockout since the runoff was so much higher but I don't know what reasoning runoff would be higher.
 
Anyone with any insight or need more info? I'm, beginning to get some deficiencies that look like potentially calcium issue (dark brown spots near tips but then also some leaves with a little yellowing around the edges of the first 1/4 of the leaf) and these are on the plant that I've had almost little in the way of needing to do things for and is insanely bushy and robust.

I considered the pH being a potential problem to cause it due to lockout since the runoff was so much higher but I don't know what reasoning runoff would be higher.
i will try to get you some help @Arthur is great for most plant problems also @Fitzy @Mañ'O'Green also i don't believe no plant is the same and as you say the other has a bigger root mass so maybe that would change the uptake I'm not sure of the answer so one of these guys will help when they see it
 
@NoFrillsNoBills Can you post some pictures taken in daylight or flash. Turn the grow lights off. Then include as much of this information as you can.

Please fill in this form: (copy and paste part is below, this first one tell what specifically to include)

-Problem: (brief description)
-Medium/grow method: soil; soilless-- coco, or peat based like Promix, etc. (please provide the actual product name); DWC, NFT, etc.
-Feed and supplements used: include brand, dosage/strength, frequency of feeding and watering (alone); method-- by hand, drippers, rercirc' or drain-to-waste,... N-P-K #'s too if you can!
-Water source: RO/DI; tap- dechlorinated-?..... EC or TDS reading; pH (don't bother with this on RO/DI, do bother with TDS/EC though to confirm it's working well enough)
-Strain and age
-Climate: night and day ambient T and RH%; res' temperatures; any extremes in T/RH% exposure
- Light used: HID, LED, COB, combo of,... wattage; light cycle hours (20/4, 18/6 , etc.); distance to tops....
-Additional info: PH in the root zone. How long have the plants been affected?...How fast did symptoms appear?... Anything else you think might be relevant..

--Pictures including WHOLE PLANT PICS, and troubled leaves.. use normal light or flash as other light sources ruin color rendering, critical for diagnostics! Turn off the grow lights.

✂ - - - - - - - - - - -
(copy and paste)-->

Problem:

Medium/grow method:

Feed: and supplements used:

water source:

PH in the root zone:

Strain/age:

light used:

Climate:

Additional info:
 
Problem: I have pH runoff that is coming in close to 7.0 but my input is around 6.1-6.3. I noticed this a few days ago, and then yesterday I noticed what looked like brown spots forming and some leaves getting yellowing around edges. I feel like whatever it was has stopped as it is not spreading. I upped my calmag solution 2x and have dosed it as such the last few days as I was concerned it was calcium issues potentially being caused by a pH lockout but that didn't make sense as the pH'ed water is 6.1-.3

Medium/grow method: Coco 5 gallon fabric pots

Feed: and supplements used: Canna A/B and calmag 7.5ml/gallon a/b and 2ml/gal calmag currently. By hand

water source: city, haven’t added a dechlorinator, pH out of tap is 7.8

PH in the root zone: n/a

Strain/age: Mango Smile roughly 40 days

light used: 2x hlg 320xl - raised to roughly 30" at full strength (did this as the mango was starting to curl upwards at times - since raising the light the curling has stopped) 18/6

Climate: ac cooled room temps range 68-74F - humidity ranges from 52-67%(midday/night time)

Additional info: spots set relatively unnoticed. Additional spots developed quickly. Color changes seem to be progressing quickly over last 48 hours. Pics included as requested

This photo was shot 2 days ago. The next photo immediately below it is just now with grow lights off and phone flash as requested. The changes dont look to have gotten worse since I went in to correction mode. The last photo is the top of the canopy. It shows some brown spot issues as well as the leaf discoloration on a separate leaf I was referring to.

IMG-2582.jpg

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IMG-2593.jpg
 
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Ok, so I may have spoke to soon. Other leaves are beginning to show the color changes (not the brown spots but the yellowing around the front of the leaf) wasn’t able to really inspect until this morning.

I ordered a pH soil meter over a week ago but it’s lost in shipping still. I have no idea when it will actually end up being delivered. Could be Monday, could be another two weeks.
 
It looks like they may be a little over-fed? I see some tip burn so back off on the strength of your nutrients by 15%. Did you wash and condition the coco before the grow? We need to know a couple of things. Get the water report from your city and check for Ammonia in the sanitation section and more important is the total hardness. If you have hard water you might be overdoing the calcium.

You should get a couple of tools EC meter so you know the PPMs of your starting water and the PPMs of your nutrients before you fertigate. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work. This will let you know the PH in the root zone where it counts.

Run-off is notoriously inaccurate for PH. The roots of the plants exude carbohydrates and other chemicals to stimulate and feed the root bio-sphere. Salts can be high in run-off. These can change the PH.

:vibe:
 
It looks like they may be a little over-fed? I see some tip burn so back off on the strength of your nutrients by 15%. Did you wash and condition the coco before the grow? We need to know a couple of things. Get the water report from your city and check for Ammonia in the sanitation section and more important is the total hardness. If you have hard water you might be overdoing the calcium.

You should get a couple of tools EC meter so you know the PPMs of your starting water and the PPMs of your nutrients before you fertigate. You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work. This will let you know the PH in the root zone where it counts.

Run-off is notoriously inaccurate for PH. The roots of the plants exude carbohydrates and other chemicals to stimulate and feed the root bio-sphere. Salts can be high in run-off. These can change the PH.

:vibe:
This is the soil pH meter I ordered last wing and still waiting on delivery.

I didn’t wash the coco. It was Canna Coco Bricks and everything I’d read before finding this place had said, including Cannas directions, said not to wash/buffer as it had already been done. So I followed the directions. I’ve seen people say since then that you should wash and buffer always regardless.

I thought I included the ppm information but I see I left that out. I water twice a day right now, and the PPM level is 700~ generally which as I understood it equaled 1400 a day.

I’m including pictures of the water report pdf. I don’t see ammonia listed anywhere. I don’t know a lot about water hardness or how it is measured exactly. Is that the one talking about calcium carbonate hardness?

82A6A718-E29E-4B89-A1B2-1B62094846C3.jpeg
58992AC6-495C-4875-A9A4-80584A023B46.jpeg
0112FC7B-7878-42C1-B312-440E589B6FA2.jpeg
B3BD2005-633F-45F7-94CB-9F114E335BFA.jpeg
DA122298-B5BB-45A9-8E7F-992E1320F187.jpeg
 
There are several variables at play... Ph naturally rises at the medium dries out.. You also want to be using the run off after you've ran about a half gallon of ph'd water though the medium. The first few cups of run of should be thrown out and not checked.. It's mostly old build up..
 
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