The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

[Epic Genetics]

Hmmm. Here's an interesting development... I made a batch of pale yellow 1~16-18ppm CS last night. Took about 3 hours. Today I made a batch for 10 hours, cleaning the rods twice in the process, and it went from yellow, to transparent grey, and still only read out at 18-19ppm... -____- why is this? It was at 16ppm at 3pm today. 15 minutea ago and it had only gone up 3ppm...... Are either of these solutions useable? I bottled them both up in spray bottles and have them sitting waiting for confirmation lol The weird thing is that a lot of stuff was accumulating aorund the rods still, even though the ppm wasn't really rising much. How does this get to 40-50ppm, or does it not? The company said their generators mare good formaking 15-20ppm cs, but it is a regular 24v outlet generator and it didnt just turn off, because when I cleaned the rods, I unplugged and replugged it in case that was how they set it up. But it doesn't have an auto shuttoff apparently.

Could it be that there was a thin layer of silver on the glass from the first batch when the second batch started. The glass is now overall greyish and the bottom still has silver.


also it was rinsed using distiller water for the first batch and tap for the second. But it wasn't left pooling in the bottom. Think that changed the color? Is it useful grey or should I toss it.

24 volts is overkill , unneeded , and WILL make larger particles/colloids , these companies who claim there generators can make this stuff within a couple hours are ASSHOLES ! especially since most of them are claiming that the c.s. is made for personal health benefits , well screw them , its documented that the larger colloids such as ones made quickly with higher voltage will NOT be of ANY health or medicinal benefit due to being too big to penetrate like the small colloids do , and that same reasoning applies to reversing plants

yellow i guess is accepted by many , however , mine remains perfectly clear

try turning off any lights while you brew it , if need be turn on the dimest light you have and if possible from a distance to do any work/adjustments/cleaning of the wires and once stored do so in a dark spot , light WILL darken the solution and also make it become unreliable

peace

p.s. i could not achieve 18 ppm in a mere 3 hours , that would take me a good 6 hrs , after that 6 hrs the ppm's start rising faster , but at the same time colloids start becoming bigger

 

[EverythingsHazy]

I'm not sure what you did wrong but you made large CS particles that's why its grey. Probably not the best for your plants the particles might be too big to be effective. The yellow stuff should work well though.

I left it really long to get a higher ppm.. Is a pale yellow (noticeably yellow, but nothing is floating around besides a tiny bit more sediment on the bottom im gonna decant again, potent enough? I think it will be, but that's just my guess. Just sprayed it all over the akr that i was using biosilver on before. it already has balls forming but i didnt want them to abort or anything if ethylene production became normal again from stopping cs spraying. Going to spray once daily from now on with the homemade yellow stuff. Will prob toss the grey stuff unless more info comes up saying otherwise by tomorrow lol


***Edit (Didn't see Bob's post while I was typing this one)***

What ppm do you currently let it get to/will it go up to? Mine wouldn't pass 20ppm in 12 hours but it was at 16ppm already in 3.

 

[Epic Genetics]

I left it really long to get a higher ppm.. Is a pale yellow (noticeably yellow, but nothing is floating around besides a tiny bit more sediment on the bottom im gonna decant again, potent enough? I think it will be, but that's just my guess. Just sprayed it all over the akr that i was using biosilver on before. it already has balls forming but i didnt want them to abort or anything if ethylene production became normal again from stopping cs spraying. Going to spray once daily from now on with the homemade yellow stuff. Will prob toss the grey stuff unless more info comes up saying otherwise by tomorrow lol

it doesnt sound like you will need enough to warrant keeping the grey stuff around , maybe run it through a coffee filter to remove the larger colloids and store it for "just incase"

with balls already forming you prolly wont have to spray much longer

peace

- - - Updated - - -

when in doubt about the ppm/strength , get a lazer pointer , sit in a dark room and shoot the lazer pointer through the jar , it should look almost solid sparkly silver instead of red

you can buy cheap lazer pointers at some dollar stores or pet stores used as toys to play with cats/pets

peace

 

[EverythingsHazy]

it doesnt sound like you will need enough to warrant keeping the grey stuff around , maybe run it through a coffee filter to remove the larger colloids and store it for "just incase"

with balls already forming you prolly wont have to spray much longer

peace

OK awesome. Yea I was most likely going to end up tossing it so I can use the bottle for something else. It's cheap enough to make with a generator which is nice.

And thats good about not having to keep spraying much.

What ppm do you like to use for reversals now with your homemade stuff? I know the article on the first post said to make it to 40-50ppm. Do you still do that?


also here is something I found in regards to health benefits.. not sure what weight it holds for cannabis reversal

WHAT COLOR SHOULD COLLOIDAL SILVER BE?
Colloidal Silver should have no color what-so-ever. Suspended particles in water can produce color by refracting light, however the size range of silver particles that produce this phenomenon is between 0.2 to 1.2um[SUP] (3)[/SUP], much too large for a quality Colloidal Silver product. If a colloidal silver product is yellow or dark it is a result of;
a.) The silver particles being too large
b.) The presence of an unwanted substance
c.) Both of the above
As a result of the research he conducted Professor Ronald J Gibbs, director of the Center for Colloidal Science at the University of Delaware between 1981-2000, reported that all of the highest quality colloidal silver products were colorless.[SUP](1)[/SUP]

HYPE BUSTING FACT​

Professor Ronald J Gibbs is known as the most respected author ever to have written about Colloidal Silver, and was the director of the Center for Colloidal Science at the University of Delaware for nearly 20 years. His body of work includes over 85 reviewed journal articles and 5 technical reports. He edited 14 books and presented lectures at 61 national and international meetings. In his excellent book Silver Colloids - do they work? Professor Gibbs tells us on page 25 that a Colloidal Silver with any color is "not acceptable" and goes on to state "The highest quality colloidal silver products tested were all colorless".Ironically some manufactures of Colloidal Silver who lean heavily upon Professor Gibbs research for the production and marketing of their product, often times even quoting his book Silver Colloids - Do They Work?, will also claim that colorless Colloidal Silver is ineffective. This would certainly seem an inexcusable contradiction in light of the fact that Professor Gibbs expressly states that all high quality Colloidal Silver is colorless.

WHAT ABOUT PARTS PER MILLION (PPM)?
Probably the most misunderstood concept in regards to Colloidal Silver is parts per million (PPM). Higher ppm does not equate to a more effective product, as a matter of fact we believe that concentrations over 12 ppm causes a colloidal silver product to be LESS effective. We have the ability to produce much higher ppm Colloidal Silver at absolutely no additional cost to us but we believe it would reduce the quality of our CS. The reasoning behind this assumption is that concentrations of silver particles at 12 ppm or greater tend to agglomerate producing larger particles. These larger particles hinder absorption and bio-availability thereby rendering the product less effective. This also explains why 12ppm and greater concentration products are yellow or dark.

HYPE BUSTING FACT​

Even marketers of "Particulate Colloidal Silver" include ionic silver when calculating parts per million of total silver concentration. If ions are not particles how then can they be included when counting parts (particulates) per million?

 

[Epic Genetics]

OK awesome. Yea I was most likely going to end up tossing it so I can use the bottle for something else. It's cheap enough to make with a generator which is nice.

And thats good about not having to keep spraying much.

What ppm do you like to use for reversals now with your homemade stuff? I know the article on the first post said to make it to 40-50ppm. Do you still do that?


also here is something I found in regards to health benefits.. not sure what weight it holds for cannabis reversal

i dont even know where my metre is anymore , stopped using it not long after starting this thread , the lazer pointer has been very reliable for me

peace

 

[evol]

I honestly don't check ppm. I always make my cs pale yellow. Sometimes its just barely yellow and sometimes its slightly darker. The darker it is your plant may get crispy leaves and funky growth.

Here are some pics I just took 5 mins ago. The first is cs from the batch I am currently using and the second and third pics is a plant that I have been spraying for a week or 2 now.
It's just a personal project I'm working on so I didn't keep track of the timing..



The pic makes it look a little darker then it is..

 

[Epic Genetics]

ill be making a batch for a stone dragon fem seed run ive started , ill try to remember to post a pic , when i give people a jar of c.s. they always ask the first time "is there anything in this ?" because mine stays so clear

i once had some that looked like the pic you posted evol , yes it looked that dark by looking at it and not a pic , it was due to my wires being too close , not only did the c.s. look like rusty water or piss , but the adaptor was hot when i went to unplug it , made another batch right away because i didnt want to trust the colored stuff , kept my wires further apart (approx 1 inch) and got clear c.s. , and the adaptor wasnt hot that time either

how close are your wires evol ?

peace

 

[evol]

My wires are probably about an inch apart. I use cheap 9v batteries not a wall plug. I think since you run a slightly higher voltage (12v correct?) your wires can be farther apart and still produce good cs. Maybe the particles are too small (possible?) in my clear 9v produced cs...???
For some reason I have less success when my CS is clear and I check with a laser pointer to make sure it is CS.

 

[Epic Genetics]

My wires are probably about an inch apart. I use cheap 9v batteries not a wall plug. I think since you run a slightly higher voltage (12v correct?) your wires can be farther apart and still produce good cs. Maybe the particles are too small (possible?) in my clear 9v produced cs...???
For some reason I have less success when my CS is clear and I check with a laser pointer to make sure it is CS.

i run 6 volts 500mA

only time i get discoloured c.s. is if its made in a brightly lit area (like my veg room once DOH!) and the time my wires were very close together , i dont think the particles could ever be too small , as long as the ppm's were a minimum of 20 but trying for 30-40 when and if possible , they would simply penetrate more efficiently if smaller imho

peace

 

[EverythingsHazy]

Well the yellow cs didn't appear to ruin the leaves as badly as the other premade stuff if at all. Probably going to just save it for 2 weeks for some seedlings to test it on from the start.

Also, the grey cs started to turn yellow........ Not as dark or urine colored (yet), but yellow tinted now.