Suspecting mold in my first outdoor grow

[Lil Dab]

Ao you think I should harvest as soon as possible and throw that bud away? Or the whole plant is not safe to use for now?

The spots without mold are fine to consume just be sure to throughly check the whole plants the thickest densest spots will be the worst. I don't know if its ready the trichome tell it all

and yes it started on the side of a small bud, should i cut that bud away maybe?

Yeah that's sounds like a good idea cut out the bad stuff

 

[Shugrows]

Dude I lost 2 plants my only 2 outdoors this year to mold. It was so wet out they never got a chance to dry out. Even use some gnome genetics thinking he breeds alot to resist mold. It was sad to throw it all away. Was dank too. But Mother Nature does what she wants. Once it hit It was over. Should have harvested at first sign just didnt have time or my kid was with. Smh. Lesson learned

 

[JP1]

You're gonna want to wash your buds. The peroxide bucket will kill whatever might still be growing on the leaves for dry/cure. I lose most of my outdoor plants every year to bugs and mold

 

[Son of Hobbes]

Hi all,
I just started my first autoflower outdoor grow, just small one for testing it’s a 2L soil pot 2.5months old.
What do you think about current situation, is it ready for harvesting? As I started seeing some white spots I’m afraid it could be mold! Should I harvest or cut this part away?

Do you have any sort of budget for purchasing some basic pesticides? There's a number of relatively cheap products that are helpful both as a preventative and when you're seeing issues. It's far, far, far better to prevent the problem then it is to treat, but you have some options if you're wanting to let the plant keep growing. The highly infected (that massive white spot) should be cut out and discarded, but without treating the plant it's going to get worse.

 

[Son of Hobbes]

You have a few different options!

• Any product that contains citric acid is beneficial when it comes to PM prevention; citric acid adjusts the pH of the plant surface, creating an environment that is inhospitable to powdery mildew.
  
  Dr Zymes and Lost Coast Plant Therapy both contain citric acid (and are very commonly recommended IPM products; you'll see both these recommended over and over again for a wide variety of IPM, because they WORK and are relatively inexpensive.) They are also both 25 (b) exempt products, meaning they classified as minimum risk products.
  
  
• Any product that contains bacillus subtilus works VERY well when it comes to powdery mildew and other molds.
  
  Bacillus subtilus is beneficial bacteria that helps trigger plant defenses, include the production of reactive oxygen species (called ROS; they are unstable molecules that contain oxygen that very easily react with other molecules in the same cell) and cell wall reinforcement (which provides some of the same benefits of using silica in your grow.)
  
  Bacillus subtilus also promotes defense-related enzymes which can help plants tolerate stress from pathogens, and can disrupt the cell membranes of powdery mildew spores, which can prevent them from germinating.
  
  The product "Cease" specifically contains bacillus subtilis and can be sprayed appropriately on the plants. It's NOT a 25 (b) exempt product, and you'll absolutely want to mask up while spraying it (it's a bacteria, you don't want to breathe this in open air.)
  
  If you've ever heard anyone mention using a home-brewed "milk spray" to combat powdery mildew, many dairy products contain bacillus subtilis (personally I would rather use something more specific that milk on my plants though.)
  
  
• A wettable sulfur product would work well while the plants are still in veg (you can use sulfur in flower, but only very early on.
  
  It smells like rotten eggs and if you spray it late in flower, there's a good chance you're going to trap those particles in the flowers which can cause an off-taste in your bud.)
  
  Sulfur kills the disease spreading spores by disrupting respiration within their cells. With intents and purpose to our plants, it does this by residual action (meaning that it keeps working after it's sprayed on through direct contact with the spores.) You'll want to mask up spraying any sulfur products as well.
  
  There's a product called "Silver Bullet" by the company Key to Life that works great!
  
  Regardless of the option; if you know that you're growing in an area prone to powdery mildew and other molds, PREVENTION is the key here. It's far easier to provide preventative maintenance than it is to try to treat an issue after it's already happened.

 

[bamdamhigh]

@Son of Hobbes Thank you so much for the very detailed answer.
Could you please recommend something from Amazon? I live in Europe, so not all the products are easily accessible to me.
what about this as an example? Amazon product

 

[Son of Hobbes]

@Son of Hobbes Thank you so much for the very detailed answer.
Could you please recommend something from Amazon? I live in Europe, so not all the products are easily accessible to me.
what about this as an example? Amazon product

I can't see the pic/link for some reason; what's the product called so I can look it up?

 

[bamdamhigh]

COMPO Green and Flowering Plants Pest-free AF:
Amazon product​

 

[Son of Hobbes]

COMPO Green and Flowering Plants Pest-free AF:​

Amazon product​

I.... am not familiar with "rapeseed". Which. I mean they could have picked a better name for whatever that is. I'm googling it now. lol

 

[Son of Hobbes]

Rapeseed (Brassica napus subsp. napus), also known as rape and oilseed rape, is a bright-yellow flowering member of the family Brassicaceae (mustard or cabbage family), cultivated mainly for its oil-rich seed, which naturally contains appreciable amounts of erucic acid. The term "canola" denotes a group of rapeseed cultivars that were bred to have very low levels of erucic acid and which are especially prized for use as human and animal food. Rapeseed is the third-largest source of vegetable oil and the second-largest source of protein meal in the world.