Sts.. Is it ok?
- Thread starter yodabuds
- Start date
Cres are you saying two treatments total?
The spray schedule I quoted is whats being done in Holland and Eastern Europe as of 2011 or 2010. Is your final solution a 0.02n or different?
yes two sprays total... maybe a thrid at three weeks if its a long flowering photo strain...
I have over 4+ years of fem seed making. Its not that much experience... many time when I sprayed to much I got a sterile plant/male...
herbal.experience
[NOVICE] micro.grower
is it necessary to reverse the whole plant or would a branch or two be ok?
allowing you to collect pollen and or self pollinate the plant.
are there any cons to reversing a couple branch vs a whole plant?
I can chime in! The plant is useless, you need to use the pollen on another female. You reverse, collect, pollinate same strain female. Cres cleared that much up for me.. :dance:
As far as the cons of a whole plant vs a branch, I'd say spraying less of that toxic shit in the air, lol.
As far as the cons of a whole plant vs a branch, I'd say spraying less of that toxic shit in the air, lol.
I was under the impression that they stopped at day 10 because of that sterility issue. I also think that some of the greenhouse's interviewed for the article I referenced have strains that work with a specific proceedure as the strains would rapidly be selected for making pollen by the "house" method.
i use the stock solution as diluting it further makes it weaker and doesnt reverse asgood. if your solution is weak then u need to spray alot more.
if u use a strong solution then u only spray once every two weeks because the solution stops working after some weeks. so for optimal result u wanne do a last spray when the sacs have formed and the soltion last long enough to make pollen. otherwise its possible the sacs wont make pollen and the solution stopped working and the normal hormones are taking back control.
if your solution is strong enough then your whole female will turn male. if the solution is weaker then u will have a combo of female and male sacs.
the original recipe from non cannabis related plant biology site where the spread recipe online is based upon.
Prepare a 0.1 M Sodium Thiosulfate (STS) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of Sodium Thiosulfate (Product No. S 7026) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 M Silver Nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of Silver Nitrate (Product No. S 7276) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solutions in the dark until needed to prepare the STS.
In general, the STS is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of
[Ag(S2O3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 M STS by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 M silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 M sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The STS can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the STS just prior to use is recommended.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
this part is wrong and doesnt achieve the 0,02 strength
Part A: 0.7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40 ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 distilled water
this is the correct formula to create 0,02 strenght sts solution, basicly u have 200ml of stock solution which u need to dilute 1:5
basicly u add 800ml to make it 1 liter. i would not dilute more then that. 1:6 could already prove too weak.
whatever formula u use, the 1 liter solution u end up with is the stuff u need to spray and not dilute any further.
like
if u use a strong solution then u only spray once every two weeks because the solution stops working after some weeks. so for optimal result u wanne do a last spray when the sacs have formed and the soltion last long enough to make pollen. otherwise its possible the sacs wont make pollen and the solution stopped working and the normal hormones are taking back control.
if your solution is strong enough then your whole female will turn male. if the solution is weaker then u will have a combo of female and male sacs.
the original recipe from non cannabis related plant biology site where the spread recipe online is based upon.
Prepare a 0.1 M Sodium Thiosulfate (STS) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of Sodium Thiosulfate (Product No. S 7026) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 M Silver Nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of Silver Nitrate (Product No. S 7276) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solutions in the dark until needed to prepare the STS.
In general, the STS is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of
[Ag(S2O3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 M STS by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 M silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 M sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The STS can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the STS just prior to use is recommended.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
this part is wrong and doesnt achieve the 0,02 strength
Part A: 0.7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40 ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 distilled water
this is the correct formula to create 0,02 strenght sts solution, basicly u have 200ml of stock solution which u need to dilute 1:5
basicly u add 800ml to make it 1 liter. i would not dilute more then that. 1:6 could already prove too weak.
whatever formula u use, the 1 liter solution u end up with is the stuff u need to spray and not dilute any further.
like
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it takes about 10`14 days like a regular male plant needs to form balls. however if u sprayed too late and female buds already started forming then offcourse u wont have a complete male as the balls will start to form between the female buds. since new sacs will form on top of eachother u gonna end up with a budsized male balls. the newly formed balls are on the outside, if u need pollen u might wanne open the bud a bit and use the male balls inside which will be already releasing pollen.
since male balls grow in tight formation like female bud would do this prevents the spread of the pollen, the new balls block the older balls and thus pollen cant fly away as easy as a normal male plant where formation is more loose.
oa good way to pollinate at the right moment is do not use any ventilators in the room when balls started forming. the reversed plant cant pollinate without wind. keeping an airstill envirenmont removes timing u need to do for right moment of pollination. basicly shut off any air movement till the moment u wanne pollinate then put a ventilator near your plant so it can start to spread pollen. toucch the male buds regularly to also open up the pollen deep inside it. most of the pollen will be inside as these will be oldest first formed ones.
since male balls grow in tight formation like female bud would do this prevents the spread of the pollen, the new balls block the older balls and thus pollen cant fly away as easy as a normal male plant where formation is more loose.
oa good way to pollinate at the right moment is do not use any ventilators in the room when balls started forming. the reversed plant cant pollinate without wind. keeping an airstill envirenmont removes timing u need to do for right moment of pollination. basicly shut off any air movement till the moment u wanne pollinate then put a ventilator near your plant so it can start to spread pollen. toucch the male buds regularly to also open up the pollen deep inside it. most of the pollen will be inside as these will be oldest first formed ones.
