Seed Stockers Seed Stockers Sampler

[GeorgeCloney]

Agreed. I have problems with alternating feed and plain water and skipping cal mag. Especially this age.make sure get good runoff this feed too @4d-Rock going into stretch I always water/feed a little extra to make sure going forward ppms are fine.i do 1.5 gallons for 3 gallon fabric with promix before every stretch.roughly day 27-30.

I know @pop22 makes a concentrate first with his MC, then mixes into water.

 

[Boognelson87]

I know @pop22 makes a concentrate first with his MC, then mixes into water.

One of my best friends do this or similar. just mix it in cup of warm water or something before putting in the gallon I'd imagine is all need to do if needed to break it down more. My buddy I go visit does something similar. He was complaining to me about floating stuff in his water after mixing it recommended this. Unsure if he does a cup or what. Just said it helped. I haven't had any issues for a while so I haven't switched anything up. it's almost autopilot so i just let what works for me do its thing lol. It's by no means the right or only way. Hopefully go another year without that infirmary lol

 

[pop22]

GC, I'm going to have to disagree with you. I've used every version of MC and From V2 on I've never had to ad cal/mag. I've probably run 60+ strains and not a one had cal/mag issues. Spotting and veinal cholorsis is a sign of PH too low in the medium or over fed, which is obviously not your issue. Chlorotic leaves at the top of the plant indicates micro nutrient def, chlorotic leaves at the bottom is NPK deficit, most of N. Check your run off PH.

Feed MC @ 500 ppms. I recent;y had this issue, ended in yellowing leaves with spots. I raised my PH to 6.6 for two feedings, then back to 6.45. Water heavily get some good runoff, a gallon or so. What happens also is if the pots get too dry, nutrients get left behind, and stick dry to the medium. which skews the ph and creates pockets of too much nutrient, exacerbating the problems.

and no matter what you do, it's going to get worse before it gets better. Don't be discouraged, you'll get them on the right track again! Hell, look at this rough looking beast. but you know what? she's recovered and is growing STILL, and she's well into flower.

I think you have answered your question.
By answering mine.

You have been under feeding , its now clear.

I get nute burn with MC around 700ppm.
At this point your first concern is the calmag, so dose at 70-80ppm and add your MC between 450-500ppm.
Do this for the next 3 feedings and observe damage/progress.
In the future, do not alternate with MC.
Feed low, and constant (450-550ppm).

 

[pop22]

Yes, it serves two purposes, every feeding is uniform, and I find it easier to measure.

I know @pop22 makes a concentrate first with his MC, then mixes into water.

 

[GeorgeCloney]

One of my best friends do this or similar. just mix it in cup of warm water or something before putting in the gallon I'd imagine is all need to do if needed to break it down more. My buddy I go visit does something similar. He was complaining to me about floating stuff in his water after mixing it recommended this. Unsure if he does a cup or what. Just said it helped. I haven't had any issues for a while so I haven't switched anything up. it's almost autopilot so i just let what works for me do its thing lol. It's by no means the right or only way. Hopefully go another year without that infirmary lol

There are so many variables when growing pot. Getting everything prrfect is an ideal.
You should also water your plants at the same temperature as the soil.
How crazy do you want to go???
When you're having fun you learn and grow ( better than your plants).

 

[GeorgeCloney]

GC, I'm going to have to disagree with you. I've used every version of MC and From V2 on I've never had to ad cal/mag. I've probably run 60+ strains and not a one had cal/mag issues. Spotting and veinal cholorsis is a sign of PH too low in the medium or over fed, which is obviously not your issue. Chlorotic leaves at the top of the plant indicates micro nutrient def, chlorotic leaves at the bottom is NPK deficit, most of N. Check your run off PH.

Feed MC @ 500 ppms. I recent;y had this issue, ended in yellowing leaves with spots. I raised my PH to 6.6 for two feedings, then back to 6.45. Water heavily get some good runoff, a gallon or so. What happens also is if the pots get too dry, nutrients get left behind, and stick dry to the medium. which skews the ph and creates pockets of too much nutrient, exacerbating the problems.

and no matter what you do, it's going to get worse before it gets better. Don't be discouraged, you'll get them on the right track again! Hell, look at this rough looking beast. but you know what? she's recovered and is growing STILL, and she's well into flower.

View attachment 1276774

You are absolutely right about the calmag issue vs the soil ph...and drying out etc.
I fix the calmag situation by dropping my ppm's to about 470 & bringing it back up to 550 with the calmag.
Is this good or proper advice...heck no.
But I'm one of the few still running ver 1 & milling it in a coffee grinder.
The milled MC should, in theory be more uniform. Experience now tells me, it is not ( no big improvements with milling.
So the dilution approach sound more enticing every time I see a def'c of any kind.

 

[Boognelson87]

GC, I'm going to have to disagree with you. I've used every version of MC and From V2 on I've never had to ad cal/mag. I've probably run 60+ strains and not a one had cal/mag issues. Spotting and veinal cholorsis is a sign of PH too low in the medium or over fed, which is obviously not your issue. Chlorotic leaves at the top of the plant indicates micro nutrient def, chlorotic leaves at the bottom is NPK deficit, most of N. Check your run off PH.

Feed MC @ 500 ppms. I recent;y had this issue, ended in yellowing leaves with spots. I raised my PH to 6.6 for two feedings, then back to 6.45. Water heavily get some good runoff, a gallon or so. What happens also is if the pots get too dry, nutrients get left behind, and stick dry to the medium. which skews the ph and creates pockets of too much nutrient, exacerbating the problems.

and no matter what you do, it's going to get worse before it gets better. Don't be discouraged, you'll get them on the right track again! Hell, look at this rough looking beast. but you know what? she's recovered and is growing STILL, and she's well into flower.

View attachment 1276774

One thing I've learned pop lol. I ain't growing leaves. Cuz if I was I may be in trouble lol. i agree with the worse before better and what's done is done.

 

[pop22]

I have a 1/2 gallon, solid white milk carton I store my solution in. I mix in a 1 quart jar ( and old plastic coconut oil jar ) i sue as a shaker. I put in 22 tablespoons of MC to a bit less than a quart of water ( need room for it to shake ) I shake the hell out of it and use a funnel and pour it into my jug. them make another batch. I top up the jug with water, ;leaving a little rim to shake it to mix, as at this strength, some nutrient settles out to the bottom. After a few feedings the ppms settle into a level you can predict. My current batch gives me about 420 ppms for 2 Tbsp. Another 1/2 Tbsp gets me to about 500 ppms. I don't swaet it being exact, I usually hit 520-550. With this solution, the nutrients are pretty evenly blended.

One of my best friends do this or similar. just mix it in cup of warm water or something before putting in the gallon I'd imagine is all need to do if needed to break it down more. My buddy I go visit does something similar. He was complaining to me about floating stuff in his water after mixing it recommended this. Unsure if he does a cup or what. Just said it helped. I haven't had any issues for a while so I haven't switched anything up. it's almost autopilot so i just let what works for me do its thing lol. It's by no means the right or only way. Hopefully go another year without that infirmary lol

 

[pop22]

Yep, V1 needed more calmag. I added 40 ppm to every batch. And even with that and the little bit of settlings, I still like V1 the best! I get great results with it, the newer versions are just easier to deal with.

You are absolutely right about the calmag issue vs the soil ph...and drying out etc.
I fix the calmag situation by dropping my ppm's to about 470 & bringing it back up to 550 with the calmag.
Is this good or proper advice...heck no.
But I'm one of the few still running ver 1 & milling it in a coffee grinder.
The milled MC should, in theory be more uniform. Experience now tells me, it is not ( no big improvements with milling.
So the dilution approach sound more enticing every time I see a def'c of any kind.

 

[4d-Rock]

Good stuff guys, thanks for all the info @Boognelson87 , @pop22 , and @GeorgeCloney

The reasoning for the alternating feeds has been that in past grows by now it always seemed that I was getting lockout and things spiraled. So I figured it may be that the peat was holding on to too much and the solution was to alternate feeds. However, as I’ve been monitoring the pH more in this and last grow I’ve noticed low soil pH the last grow (5-5.5) which lead to issues and on this grow 5.7-6pH soil when I’ve been doing higher inputs of 6-6.5. So rather than the issue being over feeding, it’s more improper pH, and now that I’m more on the proper pH range, the plant is looking for more nutrients which aren’t there. That in combination of not having enough runoff in previous grows.

I’ll follow your guys’ advice to take my water (base 50ppm) add Calmag up to 100-120ppm, then top up with Megacrop to about 500ppm. Ph’d to 6.4-6.5ish. And make sure the watering is hefty at about 1.5gallon per pot.

I’ll check on runoffs and report back