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Aye..that is Cracking...BOMBUDZ....:thumbs:...
I Love seeing time-lapse girls.

See how effective the pea screen is...you could get away with this in a garden...

Now you see them...

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now you don't...

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I was growing them for their nitrogen fixing properties..hadn't thought of screening..
 
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I was growing them for their nitrogen fixing properties..hadn't thought of screening..
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Nice Wiz! Makes me mouth water


Can I use that soil in the bag that's never been opened, but was subject to a sever fungi infection and expect a clean grow?
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Assume it is contaminated and get new / clean...
reason being... one spore on the outside of that bag makes it into the soil... and you're re-infected. and spores are sooooooo incredibly tiny (microscopic)


for disinfecting surfaces... use H202 in place of bleach :2cents:
 
Ref:
Septoria Leaf Spot

Symptoms
Septoria can infect all above-ground parts of the plant other than the fruit but infections are most obvious and extensive on the foliage. The infections are characterized by small (1/8″), circular lesions with dark borders and grayish centers. Close inspection reveals tiny black or brownish dots within the lesions. These are the spore producing structures (pycnidia) of the fungus. The leaves eventually wither and die. The disease progresses up the stem and total defoliation of the plant may finally occur.
Survival
Septoria survives the winter on infected plant debris including tomato and related plants. The fungus may also be transmitted by infected seed and spores can be present around growing facilities such as greenhouses, cold frames, flats, etc.. Where spores have survived the winter, initial infections may begin early in the year. Otherwise, the fungus will not sporulate below 59oF which delays the onset of infections. The spores are splashed by rain, blown by the wind, or carried by insects and other animals (including man) and once the initial infections have started the fungus can produce new spores which rapidly increases the rate at which the disease spreads.

Control
  1. Use disease-free seed or if the seed is suspect use a hot water treatment (122ºF for 25 min.). This practice may reduce seed viability.
  2. Remove and destroy crop refuse at the end of the season. Where this is not practical, plow the refuse into the soil at the end of the season which will promote rapid breakdown by soil micro-organisms.
  3. Practice rotation (3 years) to non-susceptible crops. The most effective rotations will also try to exclude susceptible weeds.
  4. Promote good air circulation by spacing plants properly.
  5. Hand-picking infected leaves will reduce the number of spores available for new infections.
  6. Stay out of growing areas when the foliage is wet.
  7. Water early in the day and, if possible, avoid wetting the foliage.
  8. Stake plants.
  9. Be sure plants have adequate nutrition.
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Ultimately, you'll need to keep humidity very low to prevent re-infecion and not get leaves wet when watering... it cant live without moisture.
 
John Mondello said:
Nice Wiz! Makes me mouth water




Assume it is contaminated and get new / clean...
reason being... one spore on the outside of that bag makes it into the soil... and you're re-infected. and spores are sooooooo incredibly tiny (microscopic)


for disinfecting surfaces... use H202 in place of bleach :2cents:
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I though. Thanks John. I knew I'd get a quick respons here. I checked the leaves a long time ago with my scope to verify the septoria. I think I read the same thing you posted, thanks man. Fuck, it's a huge bag of soil to. Just cleaning the outside wont do it either huh? Damn it.
 
Aye..I'm with JM..

always been told ANYTHING with mold..bag it up..don't breathe it in..and get it out of the grow room as fast as you can..
It is hazardous to Your health as well as the girls...:thumbs:
Not worth the risk..

Ripster..although this is my thread..it is the drop in centre..owt like that throw it in..coz most of the Experts pass through..so you get your answers Quick.
 
I had a reply with multiple quotes and layers of writting, i goofed up and its gone...
so i'll just say wow, i love this site, this thread, this plant!
 
ak-47

hi guys i was wondering if anyone could shed a little light on this. i took 4 badly shocked heat stressed nearly dead auto aks of a friend as he hadnt a clue what he was doin, anyway ive had them for 9 weeks and doing good theyre a bit small but to be expected after the start they had but no signs of a white pistil yet. i have them under cfl and sunlight to veg as i dont want to waste my 600w hps on 4 little plants untill they start to flower properly, could i have non autos? should i put them on 12/12 or let them grow?:peace:
 
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