I am wondering if I should just water them with straight RO water and not worry about a pH swing and hope the soil will do it’s job buffering the pH when I add just the RO water.
Using rain and air conditioner condensation water (should be close to RO), I switched to MegaCrop from AN pH Perfect, mostly in coco/perlilte, and continued to never bother to check pH, and have seen no deficiencies or excesses. I am currently not checking pH using BioBizz Light (soil). I recall others have reported MegaCrop being rather forgiving (bioavailable over a wide range of pH, like pH Perfect) such that no pH adjustment is needed.
Is all this checking of pH really needed in soil when the nutes are highly bioavailable over a wide range of pH? Another 'myth' plaguing growers, requiring needless work? Doesn't soil easily buffer any non-excessive salts-containing feed solution its given? I would presume that starting with RO would be even better with soil vs. coco in terms of the medium self-buffering, not needing adding even more salts to bring it to some set pH.
So it seems you agree with me -- If you use good nutes (bioavailable over a good range, such a pH Perfect and MegaCrop) and don't add too much salts-containing supplements from there (should not need much, if any, added with MegaCrop), you don't need to pH nutes fed to healthy soil.Agreed. With we active microbiology pH should be managed on a root level by microbes. If you were hydro I would say to add .3 EC of CalMag to your nutrient solution but it isn't necessary in soil.
I just got some bloom booster but to eliminate ph up and down I'll be mixing ro with tap and alternating calmag and bloom. Same would work in veg. Feed, calmag, feed, so you would eliminate a water only. Then adjust accordingly, also its best to mix nutes and calmag the night before. I noticed a major ph change overnight.
My tap is 7.5 and 152 so I mix 60%ro and 40%tap. With my full strength bloom it comes out perfect at 6.75.