In Soil: Use RO or Tap Water?

Can I/we also presume that the water source has no impact on living soil, microflora, etc., something no one has mentioned?
I believe this is the reason for off-gassing or dechlorinating the water by hose-filter etc....the rest is likely very water-specific, like how some folks need to PH just a little (my tap is over 8 on the natural I believe), and others can give it straight to their plants (post-chlorine). Some folks' tap water may not be nice, or even fit for human consumption in some places unfortunately :condom:
 
Tap has so many variables it's hard to recommend one over the other without knowing how good/bad the tap water is. Mine is around mid 7's and that's how I use it in soil grows....no phing anything. I don't bother off gassing or anything else...straight from the tap to the plants or mixed with nutes. Even with mixing nutes I don't bother with ph. No water to runoff either.
But!.......I know my water works fine like that from experience......someone else's may be totally different.
Short of having tap water tested or from using it to see how plants respond there is no cut and dried answer to which is better. The great thing about ro is it is consistent and predictable. Making it the better over all recommendation for someone not sure on their tap quality.
 
With no one commenting, can I/we conclude that in soil it doesn't matter what your water source is - RO, tap, a mix, etc. - as long as the soil and/or nutrients used provide the plants with optimal levels of Ca, Mg and some other salts/minerals? Can I/we also presume that the water source has no impact on living soil, microflora, etc., something no one has mentioned?

Hey, I know this has been sitting for a while but one thing I know to watch out for with tap water is chlorine vs chloramine. I had a coral reef tank for a while and the chloramine was something we had to deal with eliminating a lot. It doesn't come out of the water the usual way chlorine does - sitting, cycling, treating overnight etc.

With the way chloramines kill stuff in fish tanks I would expect that they would do the same thing to soil bacteria and helpful living things in it. I haven't grown enough cannabis to know if it effect that plant but I would think so.
 
Tap has so many variables it's hard to recommend one over the other without knowing how good/bad the tap water is. Mine is around mid 7's and that's how I use it in soil grows....no phing anything. I don't bother off gassing or anything else...straight from the tap to the plants or mixed with nutes. Even with mixing nutes I don't bother with ph. No water to runoff either.
But!.......I know my water works fine like that from experience......someone else's may be totally different.
Short of having tap water tested or from using it to see how plants respond there is no cut and dried answer to which is better. The great thing about ro is it is consistent and predictable. Making it the better over all recommendation for someone not sure on their tap quality.
Has this been accurate for you for any organic soil grows of autos...if so, how many gallons/liters of soil?
 
FF soil with FF trio nutes in 3 gal bags
Ahh, you feed nutes, and I assume actually test ec/ppm or something...still interesting you don't ph anything and grow well in HF/OF and bottle feed :cheers:
 
Ahh, you feed nutes, and I assume actually test ec/ppm or something...still interesting you don't ph anything and grow well in HF/OF and bottle feed :cheers:
No ec or ppm in soil either......just mix desired amounts and pour in in. A healthy soil will buffer itself as long as you stay within reason. Excess nutes, over/under watering can all screw that up. Of course it can get screwed the same way even with phing.
 
No ec or ppm in soil either......just mix desired amounts and pour in in. A healthy soil will buffer itself as long as you stay within reason. Excess nutes, over/under watering can all screw that up. Of course it can get screwed the same way even with phing.
That is fascinating you can do that in 3galllons of FF soil consistently without issue through harvests. If you are getting a QP+ per 3g pot every 90 days, and are happy with the product/effort, grow on with your bad self :pass:
 
That is fascinating you can do that in 3galllons of FF soil consistently without issue through harvests. If you are getting a QP+ per 3g pot every 90 days, and are happy with the product/effort, grow on with your bad self :pass:
Here's 2 of current grows all autos...and some closeup pics of the Strawberry Gorilla finishing up. I know my tent is dirty...cleanup day today. :baked:
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But my real question is broader: In soil, does it matter if you use pure (RO/DI) or tap water? What are the (dis)advantages of using RO, tap or mixing in terms of improved plant productivity and quality (presuming Ca/Mg deficiencies not an issue, with suitable preventative Ca/Mg supplementation provided during the grow)?

To circle back to the original topic for posterity/other readers:

The main reason for using a neutral media (e.g., coco or peat) with pure water (RO/DI) in a mineral feed-based approach is so that you can calculate / know / control the cation balance (i.e., ratio of K:Ca:Mg) ahead of time and avoid Ca/Mg deficiencies from occurring in the first place.

That is, by the time any deficiencies are evident during the grow, then (technically) productivity and quality have already been impacted (to a degree). However, if you're used to adapting / compensating for that during the grow and correct it in time, then the overall impact on final harvest (i.e., final weights and quality) is typically negligible (or, at least within an acceptable and/or non-noticeable range for an individual grower).

The main reason I don't use tap water is that you don't really know how much Ca is in it. Municipal water reports are published after-the-fact, and you can't really measure Ca ions individually at home. Many municipalities switch water sources depending on season, local arrangements with neighboring counties, etc. My area sources from the Potomac too, but my county sometimes purchases excess supply from neighboring counties which pull from different locations in the Potomac - so, the Ca levels can change randomly without me knowing.

The second reason is chlorine. The 'just let tap water sit for 1-2 days' method is a bit antiquated and ineffective in a sense. Most municipalities use chloramine which is a more-stable combination of ammonia and chlorine (NH2Cl) that eventually breaks down into free chlorine (Cl-). It's the free chlorine that evaporates, but the remaining chloramine must be filtered out or left to decompose naturally over time. I've seen reports that this can up to weeks and/or months. Overall, I suspect that free chlorine is more of a concern for the soil biome and organic-based grows rather than for mineral feed-based grows and the plant itself. However, I have not tested that hypothesis yet.

Another (dis)advantage is micronutrients. Tap water does include some, which can be beneficial. For RO/DI, you need a feed component that adds these back in (for the OP, that's what one of the FF trio bottles does for you). Micronutrient issues typically do not become apparent until around 8-10 weeks into the grow (at which point, it is too late to do anything about them for that grow). However, their impact is mainly cosmetic - i.e., discoloration and/or burnt tips starting in the fan leaves of the upper buds (i.e., new growth). As long as they don't spread to the buds / sugar leaves, they are not a huge impact - just possibly more trimming / manicuring.

Another potential concern is incidental / toxic elements in tap water, and I can't really say whether it should or should not be a concern in practice. I don't know how much bioaccumulation there actually is in cannabis, or how that's impacted by the final extraction / concentration / processing / ingestion methods (e.g., smoking vs. edibles vs. oil concentrates, etc) that we use. I will just say that pharmaceuticals are manufactured using USP-grade water (essentially RO/DI), and tobacco is grown using non-potable water from agricultural sources (which can be 'worse than tap water' in a sense...at least, I wouldn't drink it).

The last (dis)advantage between the two is just convenience / cost. RO/DI filters can be annoying because the final IX (ion exchange) cartridge has a high pressure loss and slows down the overall flow rate. A 1 gal bucket that can be filled in 30 secs from the tap can take 30 mins to fill from a consumer RO/DI filter. However, the majority of the Ca and Cl should be removed in the first stages (i.e., the upstream sediment / charcoal filter cartridges) and the IX cartridge is just removing the final remaining small elements / free ions. That is, I suspect just 'filtered water' (i.e., through a sediment and charcoal filter) would work just fine as opposed to 'pure' RO/DI water (i.e., sediment, charcoal, and IX cartridge) - but, I have not tried a grow like that yet.
 
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