Tetra9
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Such a valuable source of information, extremely helpful - nicely done!
Quick and Dirty deficiency picture depot (expanded to include other issues as well)
- Thread starter Waira
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This thread is amazing! 
Wow! I am going to have to look at this thread many more times. There are so many possible problems and reasons for them and a few look a lot alike and also resemble over watering symptoms.
I will look back at these pics often.
Thank you for this thread.
I will look back at these pics often.
Thank you for this thread.
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- fine-ass '22 harvest!
......don't forget to use the other half of this, with lots of text info, in the Tips & Tricks section, titled Self Diagnose you plants, put together by our awesome brother JM,... until a major redo is done, the best thing to do is use both at the same time,...
...don't forget to use the other half of this, with lots of text info, in the Tips & Tricks section, titled Self Diagnose you plants, put together by our awesome brother JM,... until a major redo is done, the best thing to do is use both at the same time,...
Anthropolis
Canna Jedi in training.
Hi peeps! I've got an interesting example to add in the hopes that perhaps someone down the line might be helped if they come across this strange looking situation. It looks scary, and I can imagine if I saw this a couple years ago as a newbie I would be freaking out haha.
This is what can happen when you mix up a fresh batch of soil (I'm organic but this could happen otherwise too) and if you don't give the soil time to "cook" and stabilize. (couple weeks to couple months, depending)
_
It can look like this:
Very strange indeed huh? Notice a couple things, the plant is otherwise healthy, and different leaves are only half or partially affected.
_
Cause? What is happening here is this: Plants uptake nutrients and water from the roots through the fibrous material which acts like highways. In the root system each little root is like a road which individually feeds up to specific places, and thus collectively the root system all together feeds the plant. (You can test this by that old trick of taking a stemmed white rose or carnation, splitting the stem into fourths, and placing each into a different colored water, in a few days different parts of the flower will be different colors.)
Here, a few of those root roads encountered a very strong "hot spot" in the soil where far too much of one or more nutrients are too concentrated. Thus this hot spot will lock out other nutes by clogging up the traffic at those roots. This is what caused the "chlorosis" or yellowing of just parts of some leaves.
_
Fix? By the time you notice it, probably a few weeks into the grow, it's too late to do much except ride it out. If you're lucky like I was, just a few leaves in one small area will be affected. If you're unlucky, well it could render the plant incapable of surviving.
_
Prevention? Be sure to do a couple things if you're mixing your own soils (actually probably good advice for store-bought soils these days with all the probs members are having). First things first, test pH and PPM of some good distilled water runoff. It'll probably be crazy high on both, but just so you have it recorded. Time!! Let it sit and "cook" for a time (time determined by many factors like temp, strength of amendments, ect ect) but at least a couple weeks. During this time you want the myco and good bacteria to be doing their hard work breaking things down, making nutrition more bio-available, and starting to normalize the pH. Stir it up (Marley song!) and stir it up some more, like every few days or twice a week or so, just stir up the soil with a shovel or pitchfork. It needs to breathe some too, and be moist during this time. Some warmth helps, so I keep mine in big huge rubbermaid bins outside in the sun with some air holes drilled. This will help cook out the hot spots and get the beneficial soil life working for you.
_
Too late! Oh no! If you've got this happening now, you've got options. 1.) let it ride 2.) attempt a transplant 3.) cull the plant and start again with diff soil. I'm always for letting it ride. The plant will try it's best. Transplanting autoflowers mid grow is just not really good practice, it shocks the plant a little bit (or a lot) and can throw off its' timing for everything. Culling is your choice, but unless it's really truly completely doomed, it's best to let it play out. Good luck gardeners!
This is what can happen when you mix up a fresh batch of soil (I'm organic but this could happen otherwise too) and if you don't give the soil time to "cook" and stabilize. (couple weeks to couple months, depending)
_
It can look like this:
Very strange indeed huh? Notice a couple things, the plant is otherwise healthy, and different leaves are only half or partially affected.
_
Cause? What is happening here is this: Plants uptake nutrients and water from the roots through the fibrous material which acts like highways. In the root system each little root is like a road which individually feeds up to specific places, and thus collectively the root system all together feeds the plant. (You can test this by that old trick of taking a stemmed white rose or carnation, splitting the stem into fourths, and placing each into a different colored water, in a few days different parts of the flower will be different colors.)
Here, a few of those root roads encountered a very strong "hot spot" in the soil where far too much of one or more nutrients are too concentrated. Thus this hot spot will lock out other nutes by clogging up the traffic at those roots. This is what caused the "chlorosis" or yellowing of just parts of some leaves.
_
Fix? By the time you notice it, probably a few weeks into the grow, it's too late to do much except ride it out. If you're lucky like I was, just a few leaves in one small area will be affected. If you're unlucky, well it could render the plant incapable of surviving.
_
Prevention? Be sure to do a couple things if you're mixing your own soils (actually probably good advice for store-bought soils these days with all the probs members are having). First things first, test pH and PPM of some good distilled water runoff. It'll probably be crazy high on both, but just so you have it recorded. Time!! Let it sit and "cook" for a time (time determined by many factors like temp, strength of amendments, ect ect) but at least a couple weeks. During this time you want the myco and good bacteria to be doing their hard work breaking things down, making nutrition more bio-available, and starting to normalize the pH. Stir it up (Marley song!) and stir it up some more, like every few days or twice a week or so, just stir up the soil with a shovel or pitchfork. It needs to breathe some too, and be moist during this time. Some warmth helps, so I keep mine in big huge rubbermaid bins outside in the sun with some air holes drilled. This will help cook out the hot spots and get the beneficial soil life working for you.
_
Too late! Oh no! If you've got this happening now, you've got options. 1.) let it ride 2.) attempt a transplant 3.) cull the plant and start again with diff soil. I'm always for letting it ride. The plant will try it's best. Transplanting autoflowers mid grow is just not really good practice, it shocks the plant a little bit (or a lot) and can throw off its' timing for everything. Culling is your choice, but unless it's really truly completely doomed, it's best to let it play out. Good luck gardeners!
How would you fix this?Nitrogen: Generally, an over-all color fade, veins and all, no spotting, etc., until well advanced,... starts from bottom up....
Toxicity symptoms:
Anthropolis
Canna Jedi in training.
To fix it, well it kinda depends on a few things. You'll have to take a look at your fertilizers and your plant. Nitrogen is the first number of three numbers on your fertilizer. If the plant is mid to late in the flowering stage, it doesn't need much Nitrogen, some say none at all even. Your feeding during the flowering stage should have very little, like 1-10-10 or 2-20-20 or something like that. If it's in the growth stage, it will need a good bit of Nitrogen, and a feeding could look like 10-3-3 or so. If your leaves are yellowing from not enough Nitrogen, then you'll have to find a way to feed them more Nitrogen. This now depends on your growing medium like soil, hydro, whatever. You could always mix up a foliar feeding spray too at like 1/10th of the recommended feeding strength but that depends too. If you're having too much Nitrogen, a Nitrogen toxicity, you'll have to immediately stop feeding with whatever you're feeding with and take a good look at the numbers. The feed might be too high in N or it might not be dosing right. You might have to find a different feed with zero N for a bit, the plant will slowly use the N built up in her and slowly recover. Hydrophonics is going be a little harder though, it just depends.
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nice thread guys
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