Problems starting up...

That greenhouse tube heater is super cool! It seems like they are available(cheap!) in the UK but not so much in the states.
I could use a 3 prong adapter...but I won't :(
I am going to get the smallest oil filled heater I can find and fit it in there.
I put a 100w bulb in for now and the temp. has gone up a few degrees.


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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRSGM5W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACIAU6YNB8H7B&psc=
 
VPD climate around 70-73F

you need to run at around 26c to 28c 78f to 82f, for cannabis preferential growth, to control root temperature,..root temperature has a major effect on nute uptake....... the clawing is related to 'Low" respiration temperatures, stoma struggling to breath out due to high RH differential........... the plant is of ericaceous and tropical origin...... see VPd guide below, room temp controls RH = Vpd............... room temp controls soil temp needs to be 23-24c........ green band is sweet zone.... get your room temp at 26-28c........ it will all re-align itself.....
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root temp controls nutrient assimilation, in other words root matrix Ph......... this needs to be within these ranges to assure correct nute uptake and avoid nute deffs..... see how the mg & phos drop out below "Ph5.8"............ asuming matrix temp is above 21c............. ALR
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I'm gonna pick up a little oil radiant heater later today unless anyone has another suggestion?

these are the better choice to heat the cab lights out, and to assist cab temps lights "On" if, you use "LED's"....... if not it's a light out thermo fan with safty tilt switch 1kw thermo controlled, so you can have it go "OFF" at 28c................come on at 24c.................. the other bennefit is. During flower, the hot metal AAA rated heater ellements, when the room stinks of fruits, in flower, it "Burns Of" some of the terps, delivering the stink !!............. helps take some of the VOc's = terps = aroma flavanoids, removal strain, off the carbon filter...... around 18 quid in Uk............ 1 & 2kw option, and thermo tune dial............

80w tube heaters run at to loew a temp to hit 26c lights out, 24c minimum....... so as to keep RH down during lights out, critically, if "RH" rises above 65-75%.................and the flow over the carbon from the fan is "Too Fast"............... aromas will "Bypass" the carbon filter, as it begins to fail due to dustt logging and high RjH, combined with high air flow ratio's........ oil rads, expensive, and take far to long to reach service temps, you need to set lights off heater fan 'Control Timer" to go "OFF" 15mins after lights come on, so no temp drop during transition from lights off, to light on, when the thermo heater fan goes off....... hope that is of some help there Mr K....... all the best with the grow.................ALR
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Addendum;
The plants are at 5 to 6th internode stage, so are ready for topping out "Prune" centre stem, above 5th internode............... energy re-direction will begin, end result is 20-25% more weight at drying time......... plus height control in fems.......... the Tooth looks the one to me........ a toothless alien hybrid i wouldn't wonder........... monster strain, tent dominater !! good luck K.........ALR
 
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:yeahthat: :wiz: ...Thank you again ALR, your help here has been a real treat for all! In fact, I'll be PM'ing you shortly about topping photo's for outside season,.. I'm over the "nice fat main cola " thing, the damn mold almost always hits there first and worst, so what's the point? :doh: :rofl:... less girthy colas seem to fair much better.... this season, everybody gets topped!
 
greenhouse tube heaters 1ft,2ft,3ft, 60/120/180w are a bit strange,kinda useless as far as creating heat goes,designed to avoid a chill(enclosed space no venting)dont know how that converts into the weed in a tent/cupboard grow world.
i have a 2ft tube in a real small space,raises my temps up a few degrees,but if ambient temp drops below about 10c i may aswell turn the tube off as its not upto the job.a 450w oil rad be a better option.
my whole cupboard is less than 250w,dont make sense for me to stick an oil rad in in winter,better off shutting up shop for 2 or 3 months.
an inkbird 308t can be a handy tool in the cupboard £30 inkbird.JPG
good luck n kep er lit.
:pighug:
 
my whole cupboard is less than 250w,dont make sense for me to stick an oil rad in in winter,better off shutting up shop for 2 or 3 months.

for the price of running a .5Kw heater in a small space, over the 4mnth winter period, got to be worth it for the harvest in spring !!.............. if you did shut down, would you summer yield dried flower volume, see you through the 3-4mnths of winter, (No Grow) add to that the 3mths for the new grow to yield,...... like 6mnth before the next fresh harvest came in............... @1g/day, you would need 200g, 2g/Day 400g........... to get through the 6mnths, winter no grow, then new grow period............... ALR
 
I've increased the cal-mag level but I'm still seeing some new issues developing. Here are some new pics of the SODK. Any ideas as to what's still happening here?
Thanks all!
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You could switch to HPS, I know some that run hps thru the winter months 24/0 to keep the temps up some.... but with HPS your leaf temps change and we run cooler due to the high IR.
 
Mr K 75f = 23c = to low a temperature for the root ball,...........................= whole leaf yellowing is phos lock out.......... due to low grow medium temps...................... and a low medium Ph.................. raise the feed Ph to 7.0, then raise the temp of the soil.................... before the phos lock out spreads up the leaves, your leaves are very dark green, as the cal/mag has a high nitrogen vector included in it...... you dont have Ca = calcium or K = magnesium deff................... if you dont address root temps, and grow space temp, your harvest will be affected negatively............... warm 2ltrs to 23c Ph it to 7.0 using Bi-Carb of soda.............. get 200ml of fresh run off and take Ph and post it up here........................ i can tell you it will be below 6.0................ you need to raise it with bi-carb to raise the Ph of your normal feed....................... feed as normal with elevasted Ph to drag up the grow medium Ph, back into nute assimilation range.......................as chart "Previously" posted here......ALR
 
I've increased the cal-mag level but I'm still seeing some new issues developing. Here are some new pics of the SODK. Any ideas as to what's still happening here?
Thanks all!
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For what it's worth, I've only needed to add Ca/Mg supplement when using distilled water. Tap water will probably have plenty of Ca, and if you do see a Mg deficiency, add a wee bit of epsom salt. I don't recommend using a combination additive (Ca/Mg) if you are only addressing one deficiency, i.e. Mg. Especially if it also piles on more nitrogen.
 
Still waiting on ph tester to arrive, but I've made arrangements I'm using warmer 22c water at every watering.
All plants received straight water till a slight runoff at their last watering.
I'm hoping that warmer ambient temps and warmer water will clear up the Phos. lock-out!
Day 56 for the SODK and Ghost Toof [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG].
SODK is in the middle on the left.
The two little ladies are 4 Assed Monkey in 3 gallon Rain Science bags. They're 8 days...
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