I,ve never used that brand but it got a lot of good shit in it.When i made my first batch i used kellogs potting soil,i was not pleased with it at first,way to many sticks.Let me know how you like it,it looks like a pretty good base soil.I started making soil last year and it just keeps getting better.Peace.
Organic Forum Discussion
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Compost ,compost,oh and compost.That,s a real nice start to put in your bins.Looks like a lot of organic material to work with.Prolly to course for a seed starter,or you could screen it and get the bulky stuff out.Pick a soil recipe,get all your shit online, or if you can locally.If you don,t deviate from the recipe you will be OK,and just let it cook for at least 2 months,the longer the better .Looks like you got a lot to work with.The fun of organics is you can invent your own style.Peace.
Last edited:
Some questions guys , I am cooking some soil at the moment , but I want to add some more things to it . I have 2 other batches that I will have for the next grow or 2 which will be at least 3 months old , so I gather there would be no harm in adding to the new batch as it will get plenty of age on it ? Also can you leave soil to long before you use it ? Now this one has got me 
Balancing the soil .
0.5cup Mexican Bat Guano [10 - 1 - 1]
1c. Peruvian Seabird Guano [12 - 11 - 2]
2c. Jamacian Bat Guano [0 - 10 - 0]
2c. Indonesian Bat Guano [0 - 7 - 0]
8c. Down to Earth's Bio-Live [5 - 4 - 2]
8c. Alfalfa Meal [2.5 - 1 - 1]
4c. Kelp Meal [1 - 0.1 - 2]
4c. Oyster Shell [35% Ca]
4c. Soft Rock Phosphate [0 - 2 - 0 + Ca 16%]
4c. Langbeinite [0 - 0 - 22 + 10.8%Mg + 22.8%S]
2c. Azomite a.k.a. Glacial Rock Dust [micro nu
Ok if you add the NPK s up you get 36 N - 34 . 1 P - 30 K , as they are all close is this what you mean by balanced . Then doe's the plant just take what it needs ? Now bear with me , I know I am missing something here , is this not high amounts of N.P.K .
Balancing the soil . 0.5cup Mexican Bat Guano [10 - 1 - 1]
1c. Peruvian Seabird Guano [12 - 11 - 2]
2c. Jamacian Bat Guano [0 - 10 - 0]
2c. Indonesian Bat Guano [0 - 7 - 0]
8c. Down to Earth's Bio-Live [5 - 4 - 2]
8c. Alfalfa Meal [2.5 - 1 - 1]
4c. Kelp Meal [1 - 0.1 - 2]
4c. Oyster Shell [35% Ca]
4c. Soft Rock Phosphate [0 - 2 - 0 + Ca 16%]
4c. Langbeinite [0 - 0 - 22 + 10.8%Mg + 22.8%S]
2c. Azomite a.k.a. Glacial Rock Dust [micro nu
Ok if you add the NPK s up you get 36 N - 34 . 1 P - 30 K , as they are all close is this what you mean by balanced . Then doe's the plant just take what it needs ? Now bear with me , I know I am missing something here , is this not high amounts of N.P.K .
In a well balanced mix,the plant will take what it needs.I found that the longer it sits and cooks the better it is.I have three bins of soil ,ready at all times.I also keep a separate container for my seedling mix.I think your NPK numbers are OK.You might hit up EOF ,but it looks ok to me.I use oyster flour in my seedling mix.I have good success with germination,with this mix.If your soil is balanced you will be able to grow anything.My first grow was a little hot,but after it cooked for several months,i have grown autos and photos with little to no help,except aloe and coconut.I find this style a lot easier and very productive.I use occasional teas in transition or bloom if needed.I have not tried SST but plan to.You will hit your own groove.My current grow is doing very well the photos are over 6 ft tall,and my little Heisenbergs are over 2 feet tall.MY super soil is rocking these bad boys.Peace.
IMO the thing to remember if you're are using a hot amended soil, is that your'e are really growing BOTH the soil AND the plant. (I know that soil is not really an organism, but in this context it is useful to think of soil that way.) One organism, the plant, grows by feeding off the products of the other (soil). Healthy soil is a necessary, but not a sufficient condition for good plant growth, light and water being the other basics.
In this discussion of soil development and how long it takes to be usable once mixed, one factor is missing, and that is temperature. Like the three bears, not too hot and not too cold. Microbiological activity is very slow at cool temperatures, but really ramps up with increasing temperature. There is a maximum temperature though, beyond which the micro-organisms will start to die from heat. This suggests that there is an optimum temperature, but it will vary somewhat depending on soil composition. Instead of trying to find this optimum temperature, lets just find a good temperature range that requires little effort to achieve and maintain. (I am all about easy-to-implement solutions.)
I make about 150 liter (5 cubic feet) batches which I age in a couple of closed black RubberMade-style containers. In the summer, I set them in a place where they get about 5 h of direct sunlight a day. Now, I live in Alaska, so 5 h of solar heating per summer day here might be more like 3 hours in a lower latitude. This is easy to optiimze. Pop the lid off a container about 2 hrs AFTER the daily solar heating has occurred. Push your hand down into the soil .(if you are squeamish doing this with your bare hand, you have probably chosen the wrong pastime.) The soil should feel a bit warm to the skin. Note that if you cannot easily work your hand to the bottom of the container, you need to lighten up your soil (think perlite) a good bit.
Do this same check again in the morning just BEFORE the heating cycle. The soil should feel a bit warm to the touch. If that is the case, you are in the zone. If not, adjust the solar heating up or down to get to the right point. The biggest danger here is in overheating the soil to the point where the microbes start dying. If the solar heating is too little, it will just slow down the process, but won't kill it.
Of course in Alaska, solar warming just isn't going to happen in the winter months, and I usually do one wInter batch of soil. If I were to put my containers outside, they would freeze solid in a couple of days. This would REALLY slow things down! I resort to the garage method.Instead using a heating pad (actually a couple of 60W car battery heater pads (they are pretty common up here) to a total of 120W, but heating from the bottom. Gives the same "warm to the touch" effect as solar heating.
Summer or winter, I have found that this soil culture can be used in a little as 2 weeks. However, it comes into its prime at about week 6, and is good for several months... but for me it usually does not get that test of time B4 using.
One other issue here is mixing /stirring of the soil during agIng. Of course you want the beginning mixture as homogeneous (well-mixed) as possible Common wisdom says that it should be stirred frequently during aging. I disagree. Part of natural soil evolution is the forming of soil horizons; strata or layering forming as the soil organsim matures. I am a non-stirrer. I just let the soil do what it wants to do. In a finished container, I can did a hole into the soil and see 3-5 distinct color layers. When it gets to this point, it is good to go.
A couple more pointers. As the soil ages and the microbes get going, the odor gets stronger. Not in an bad sense at all, though, just real "earthy". A lot more so than the original base soil in the bag. This means that the microbes are multiplying and outgassing as a result of their chemical reactions. With a little practice you can tell how far along the cure is, then the soil is good to go by the smell alone. (If it smells in any way nasty, e.g., overly mouldy, sharp and rancid, then you have the wrong biochemistry going on.
When your soil get to the point that you are thinking "if I was a cannabis plant THIS is where I would want to grow", you are there.
Best thing is to dive in and go for it. Find a good recipe (most important), keep it warm and moist (not wet), and it will do all the work for you. I have never added any nutrients or messed with soil composition in any way for the last ten or so batches I have grown. The soil and the plant have co-evolved to do their jobs w/ little to no human intervention. I have been proven to be able to mess up a grownng plant in a lot of other ways, believe me, but I have never had a soil problem.
PS I DO use a dilute liquid bone meal supplement in my watering after flowering commences, but I am not convinced this makes much difference one way or the other.
In this discussion of soil development and how long it takes to be usable once mixed, one factor is missing, and that is temperature. Like the three bears, not too hot and not too cold. Microbiological activity is very slow at cool temperatures, but really ramps up with increasing temperature. There is a maximum temperature though, beyond which the micro-organisms will start to die from heat. This suggests that there is an optimum temperature, but it will vary somewhat depending on soil composition. Instead of trying to find this optimum temperature, lets just find a good temperature range that requires little effort to achieve and maintain. (I am all about easy-to-implement solutions.)
I make about 150 liter (5 cubic feet) batches which I age in a couple of closed black RubberMade-style containers. In the summer, I set them in a place where they get about 5 h of direct sunlight a day. Now, I live in Alaska, so 5 h of solar heating per summer day here might be more like 3 hours in a lower latitude. This is easy to optiimze. Pop the lid off a container about 2 hrs AFTER the daily solar heating has occurred. Push your hand down into the soil .(if you are squeamish doing this with your bare hand, you have probably chosen the wrong pastime.) The soil should feel a bit warm to the skin. Note that if you cannot easily work your hand to the bottom of the container, you need to lighten up your soil (think perlite) a good bit.
Do this same check again in the morning just BEFORE the heating cycle. The soil should feel a bit warm to the touch. If that is the case, you are in the zone. If not, adjust the solar heating up or down to get to the right point. The biggest danger here is in overheating the soil to the point where the microbes start dying. If the solar heating is too little, it will just slow down the process, but won't kill it.
Of course in Alaska, solar warming just isn't going to happen in the winter months, and I usually do one wInter batch of soil. If I were to put my containers outside, they would freeze solid in a couple of days. This would REALLY slow things down! I resort to the garage method.Instead using a heating pad (actually a couple of 60W car battery heater pads (they are pretty common up here) to a total of 120W, but heating from the bottom. Gives the same "warm to the touch" effect as solar heating.
Summer or winter, I have found that this soil culture can be used in a little as 2 weeks. However, it comes into its prime at about week 6, and is good for several months... but for me it usually does not get that test of time B4 using.
One other issue here is mixing /stirring of the soil during agIng. Of course you want the beginning mixture as homogeneous (well-mixed) as possible Common wisdom says that it should be stirred frequently during aging. I disagree. Part of natural soil evolution is the forming of soil horizons; strata or layering forming as the soil organsim matures. I am a non-stirrer. I just let the soil do what it wants to do. In a finished container, I can did a hole into the soil and see 3-5 distinct color layers. When it gets to this point, it is good to go.
A couple more pointers. As the soil ages and the microbes get going, the odor gets stronger. Not in an bad sense at all, though, just real "earthy". A lot more so than the original base soil in the bag. This means that the microbes are multiplying and outgassing as a result of their chemical reactions. With a little practice you can tell how far along the cure is, then the soil is good to go by the smell alone. (If it smells in any way nasty, e.g., overly mouldy, sharp and rancid, then you have the wrong biochemistry going on.
When your soil get to the point that you are thinking "if I was a cannabis plant THIS is where I would want to grow", you are there.
Best thing is to dive in and go for it. Find a good recipe (most important), keep it warm and moist (not wet), and it will do all the work for you. I have never added any nutrients or messed with soil composition in any way for the last ten or so batches I have grown. The soil and the plant have co-evolved to do their jobs w/ little to no human intervention. I have been proven to be able to mess up a grownng plant in a lot of other ways, believe me, but I have never had a soil problem.
PS I DO use a dilute liquid bone meal supplement in my watering after flowering commences, but I am not convinced this makes much difference one way or the other.
hi guys,
I'm in the middle of constructing an aquaponic DWC setup so I guess I qualify as an organic grower
once I get enough fish crap and the healthy bacteria producing nitrates I will need to supplement with organic (and non toxic) nutes as aquaponics can be deficient in potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and iron. Anyone reccomend something on the market to dose up while flowering?
it will be a perpetual grow in a secret jardin loft tent, vegging plants will be on drip feed organic nutes before going DWC in the flowering chamber, also need a recommendation for that and I guess I need a comprehensive flowering organic nutrient as a failsafe in case my fish keel over.
so in short I will need;
veg nutes
budding supplements
bloom nutes to use with the budding suppliments in case I loose my fish.
any pointers be greatly appreciated!
I'm in the middle of constructing an aquaponic DWC setup so I guess I qualify as an organic grower
once I get enough fish crap and the healthy bacteria producing nitrates I will need to supplement with organic (and non toxic) nutes as aquaponics can be deficient in potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and iron. Anyone reccomend something on the market to dose up while flowering?
it will be a perpetual grow in a secret jardin loft tent, vegging plants will be on drip feed organic nutes before going DWC in the flowering chamber, also need a recommendation for that and I guess I need a comprehensive flowering organic nutrient as a failsafe in case my fish keel over.
so in short I will need;
veg nutes
budding supplements
bloom nutes to use with the budding suppliments in case I loose my fish.
any pointers be greatly appreciated!
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Hot or cold?
At the ends of the composting spectrum are two methods: hot and cold. A cold composting system is one in which organic waste is simply dumped in a pile to decompose. The gardener expends little or no energy managing the pile and just waits for it to decompose. Hot composting requires a system that raises temperatures high enough and for a long enough time to destroy weed seeds and plant pathogens. This requires some work on the part of the gardener, either up front with careful layering of materials, or later on with maintenance of pile temperatures. In between the two techniques are numerous degrees of intervention.
Actually, the term cold composting is a misnomer, as even in an untended pile, temperatures will rise. I use these terms to differentiate between active and passive composting. A cold pile may be as sophisticated as a three-bin system or as simple as a heap of leaves. The beauty of cold composting is that you just pick a spot to plop your organic refuse and then add to it. Although this non-method appeals to the laziness in all of us, cold composting takes longer to produce finished compost.
The hot method requires monitoring the moisture content of the pile, aerating to keep oxygen-hungry microbes fueled, and balancing the brown and green material you add to your system. Planning, vigilance, and work bring about fast decomposition of organic material, with bin temperatures high enough to destroy most plant pathogens and weed seeds.
Composting is a method of recycling naturally decomposing matter. Ingredients, size of the pile, local weather conditions, and your maintenance habits will affect the outcome. Note that shredded leaves, chipped wood, and chopped food scraps generally decompose more quickly than whole or large pieces.
HOT, OR ACTIVE COMPOSTING
The quickest way to produce rich garden humus is to create a hot, or active, compost pile. It is called “hot” because it can reach an internal temperature of 160°F (140°F is best) and “active” because it destroys, essentially by cooking, weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. The size of the pile, the ingredients, and their arrangements in layers are key to reaching that desired outcome.
Size: A hot compost pile should be a 3-foot cube, at minimum; a 4-foot cube is preferred. The pile will shrink as the ingredients decompose.
Ingredients:
One part high-carbon materials (shredded, dry plant matter such as leaves, twigs, woody stems, corn cobs)
One part high-nitrogen green plant matter (green plant and vegetable refuse, grass clippings, weeds, trimmings, kitchen scraps—but avoid meat, dairy, and fat) and good-quality soil
Pile the ingredients like a layer cake, with 2 to 4 carbon materials on the bottom (twigs and woody stems here will help air to circulate into the pile). Next, add a layer of soil. Add 2 to 4 inches of nitrogen-based materials, followed by soil. Repeat until the pile reaches 2 to 3 feet high.
Soak the pile at its start and water periodically; its consistency should be that of a damp sponge.
Add air to the interior of the pile by punching holes in its sides or by pushing 1- to 2-foot lengths of pipe into it.
Check the temperature of the pile with a compost thermometer or an old kitchen thermometer. A temperature of 110°F to 140°F is desirable. If you have no heat or insufficient heat, add nitrogen in the form of soft green ingredients or organic fertilizer.
If a foul odor emanates from the pile, flip the compost to introduce more air. And consider: Did you add meat or dairy products? Remove and discard them, if possible.
Once a week, or as soon as the center starts to cool down, turn the pile. Move materials from the center of the pile to the outside. (For usable compost in 1 to 3 months, turn it every other week; for finished compost within a month, turn it every couple of days.)
COLD, OR PASSIVE COMPOSTING
Cold, or passive, composting uses many of the same type of ingredients as hot composting and requires less effort from the gardener, yet the decomposition takes substantially longer—a year or more.
To cold compost, pile organic materials (leaves, grass clippings, soil, manures—but avoid dog, cat, and human waste) as you find or accumulate them. Bury kitchen scraps in the center of the pile to deter insects and animals. Avoid adding meat, dairy, and fat. Also avoid weeds; cold compost piles do not reach high temperatures and do not kill weed seeds. (In fact, weeds may germinate in a cold pile.)
COMPOSTABLE GOODS
In addition to the ingredients mentioned above, any of these items may be added to a compost pile:
Coffee grounds and loose tea or compostable tea bags (note that most tea bags are not fully compostable so tear them before adding to compost)
Dry goods (crackers, flour, spices)
Eggshells
Hair
Nutshells
Pasta (cooked or uncooked)
Seaweed
Shredded paper/newspaper
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorny/2010/11/cold_compost_not_a_bad_alterna.html
http://www.growinganything.com/compost-how-to-make.html
http://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/7-solutions-common-compost-problems
At the ends of the composting spectrum are two methods: hot and cold. A cold composting system is one in which organic waste is simply dumped in a pile to decompose. The gardener expends little or no energy managing the pile and just waits for it to decompose. Hot composting requires a system that raises temperatures high enough and for a long enough time to destroy weed seeds and plant pathogens. This requires some work on the part of the gardener, either up front with careful layering of materials, or later on with maintenance of pile temperatures. In between the two techniques are numerous degrees of intervention.
Actually, the term cold composting is a misnomer, as even in an untended pile, temperatures will rise. I use these terms to differentiate between active and passive composting. A cold pile may be as sophisticated as a three-bin system or as simple as a heap of leaves. The beauty of cold composting is that you just pick a spot to plop your organic refuse and then add to it. Although this non-method appeals to the laziness in all of us, cold composting takes longer to produce finished compost.
The hot method requires monitoring the moisture content of the pile, aerating to keep oxygen-hungry microbes fueled, and balancing the brown and green material you add to your system. Planning, vigilance, and work bring about fast decomposition of organic material, with bin temperatures high enough to destroy most plant pathogens and weed seeds.
Composting is a method of recycling naturally decomposing matter. Ingredients, size of the pile, local weather conditions, and your maintenance habits will affect the outcome. Note that shredded leaves, chipped wood, and chopped food scraps generally decompose more quickly than whole or large pieces.
HOT, OR ACTIVE COMPOSTING
The quickest way to produce rich garden humus is to create a hot, or active, compost pile. It is called “hot” because it can reach an internal temperature of 160°F (140°F is best) and “active” because it destroys, essentially by cooking, weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. The size of the pile, the ingredients, and their arrangements in layers are key to reaching that desired outcome.
Size: A hot compost pile should be a 3-foot cube, at minimum; a 4-foot cube is preferred. The pile will shrink as the ingredients decompose.
Ingredients:
One part high-carbon materials (shredded, dry plant matter such as leaves, twigs, woody stems, corn cobs)
One part high-nitrogen green plant matter (green plant and vegetable refuse, grass clippings, weeds, trimmings, kitchen scraps—but avoid meat, dairy, and fat) and good-quality soil
Pile the ingredients like a layer cake, with 2 to 4 carbon materials on the bottom (twigs and woody stems here will help air to circulate into the pile). Next, add a layer of soil. Add 2 to 4 inches of nitrogen-based materials, followed by soil. Repeat until the pile reaches 2 to 3 feet high.
Soak the pile at its start and water periodically; its consistency should be that of a damp sponge.
Add air to the interior of the pile by punching holes in its sides or by pushing 1- to 2-foot lengths of pipe into it.
Check the temperature of the pile with a compost thermometer or an old kitchen thermometer. A temperature of 110°F to 140°F is desirable. If you have no heat or insufficient heat, add nitrogen in the form of soft green ingredients or organic fertilizer.
If a foul odor emanates from the pile, flip the compost to introduce more air. And consider: Did you add meat or dairy products? Remove and discard them, if possible.
Once a week, or as soon as the center starts to cool down, turn the pile. Move materials from the center of the pile to the outside. (For usable compost in 1 to 3 months, turn it every other week; for finished compost within a month, turn it every couple of days.)
COLD, OR PASSIVE COMPOSTING
Cold, or passive, composting uses many of the same type of ingredients as hot composting and requires less effort from the gardener, yet the decomposition takes substantially longer—a year or more.
To cold compost, pile organic materials (leaves, grass clippings, soil, manures—but avoid dog, cat, and human waste) as you find or accumulate them. Bury kitchen scraps in the center of the pile to deter insects and animals. Avoid adding meat, dairy, and fat. Also avoid weeds; cold compost piles do not reach high temperatures and do not kill weed seeds. (In fact, weeds may germinate in a cold pile.)
COMPOSTABLE GOODS
In addition to the ingredients mentioned above, any of these items may be added to a compost pile:
Coffee grounds and loose tea or compostable tea bags (note that most tea bags are not fully compostable so tear them before adding to compost)
Dry goods (crackers, flour, spices)
Eggshells
Hair
Nutshells
Pasta (cooked or uncooked)
Seaweed
Shredded paper/newspaper
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorny/2010/11/cold_compost_not_a_bad_alterna.html
http://www.growinganything.com/compost-how-to-make.html
http://www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden/7-solutions-common-compost-problems
