New Grower Ok, ive been debating it, but heres my 1st grow journal.

  • Thread starter Thread starter growbewan
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ok, i just want to update real quick. (big suprise..haha) anyways, just read through 11 pages or so of this journal, and it made me realize how im stressing way too much over stuff that could be easily fixed. I guess i just want everything to go perfectly, but i gotta just sit back and realize that these are plants, and nothing can be done overnight. I have been so overwhelmed by tiny problems that i have asked the same questions over and over again, when they couldve been fixed if i just chilled, listend, and let things take their course. Squid, if you read this, I know you have tried multiple times to chill me out, and for that im greatful. It takes me re-reading my posts to realize how stressed i sound. Anyhow, just want you guys to know, im gonna take a different approach- less questions, and less stress. And ill listen closer to advice, cuz u all know what ur doing. Everythings going ok right now, and im sure its gonna be fine all the way through. One things for sure, youve taught me so much in such a little time, and for that i will be forever greatful. Anyhow, thanks again. :smokeit:
 
I would start out with 1/4 strength on the nutes. If I remember correctly your soil mix already has a lot of castings and manure in it. Also, the cal/mag may not be necessary at this point unless you're seeing some signs of deficiencies. As far as when you feed, it doesn't really make much difference. Personally I prefer not to feed right before lights out.

ok, i got another dumb question if someone can help me out. Now that ive got my soil PH stabilized, I want to start these girls on nutes. Im gonna give them all a veg feeding, and i want to add cal mag to it, possibly root boost. do you recommend i do all 3? How much should I give, quarter, half? I know not a full dose. I plan on feeding tomorrow morning or afternoon, should i do it in the early a.m.? that seems to be when theyre thriving, or should I wait until after their nap in the afternoon. Technically that is the girls' morning, right? Last dumb question, ive got my water sitting out in a 5 gallon bucket, to de-chlorinate it, should i put my nutes in tonight, so it settles in the water overnight? or should i put it in the water right before the feeding? i know, dumb, but itll be the last time i ask these! Thanks guys!
 
ok, quick update. came home from work the other day, and it finally happened..haha..whole house was stunk the "F" up..i had to run out and get me a scrubber. I cant wait to see my electric bill..that room is using more electicity then the xmas tree at carnegie hall.
 
ok carbon filter working great! smell completely gone. I finally gave my girls their first veg nute feeding today. 1/4 strength. My soil ph is still not right, runoff comng out at 5.8-6.0. I added a little more lime, as its been a week since i did last time. Anyhow, i went ahead with a veg feed anyways. My girls look awesome, even though some of the leaves are def showing signs of something, theyre drying out and what looks like "shrinking". Its on some of the new growth, but only on a handful of leaves. I cant help to think its due to the PH. Not too worried. I was gonna upload a few pics this morning, but my camera was dead. Ill take a few pics in a bit.
 
Day 29 akr 3 side.jpgDay 29 akr 3 top.jpgDay 29 akr 3 (2).jpgDay 29 Flower.jpgDay 29 Leaf Probs.jpgday 29 bad leaves.jpgDay 29 bad leaf.jpgyounger girls.jpgday 29 Dina WW.jpgDina ww problems.jpgwell here are some updated pics. all of which are labled. Heres a list of whats going on:
The two pic of the two under the t45's are White Widow photo's about day 20
The pic of my setup is of all 4 oldest-i just lowered the light, 2 1/2 feet away now
The ones labled AKR 3 is my best baby..shes doing awesome, but as i stated a little earlier, has a few leaves that i think either are effected by PH, or maybe the light. either way, there are some close ups of the leaves, they almost resemble melted plastic, and feel very dry, but only a handful.
The Dinafem WW is the one that looks like its in the worst shape. It was in great shape up until a week ago, and alot of the leaves are drying out. Ive already either trimmed leaves down, or cut some off from the bottom, about 4 ive cut off. Any ideas? Maybe its Nute lockout from the low PH'd soil? Thats what my thoughts are, and the ph is working its way up, so im hoping for the best.
Last there are a couple close ups of beginning of flowering, real exciting! ive got 2 more Akr's not shown, theyre doing real good, just a smaller version of #3.
Comments welcome! Thanks! Oh yeah, ill be lowering the light down inch by inch until i reach an optimal height, hopefully 16" or so..
day 29 29 inches.jpg for the most part, im very pleased~:thumbs:
 
The ones that you labeled "Bad Leaves" and "Bad Leaf" look to me like Potassium deficiency. Check this out:

1134potassiumdef2.jpg


I copied this from 420Magazine:

Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red colour and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of colour (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.

When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish colour in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.

Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/environment.

Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium deficiency. Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency , Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food.( Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption. (FFGB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Might be something else, though, so maybe wait for a second opinion.
:smokebuds:
 
thanks for the info noods! yeah, i figd it was a nute lockout of some sort due to my low PH'd soil problems..hopefully thats fixed, if my soil wasnt so bad, i think this would be going perfectly right now. oh well, part of me is "happy" it happened, for it made me learn how important checking your soils ph is. :wiz:
 
I'm sure it was lockout from the low pH. You said it's coming back up. What were the latest readings?
 
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