Yes, but I would ph it down into the 6.2-6.5 range to be safe. That way at least some of the nutrients in the soil might become available to the plant.
Ph meters, soil probes, and ppm meters are all tools of the trade.nmust haves if you ask me. I can't see getting through a solid grow without them. Some people will say it's too much money, or that they aren't needed... But when problems arise (and they always do) they are the only tools that can help you diagnose your issues as well as eliminate others.. I bet you a dollar that your ppm run off is in the thousands right now. Using plain ph'd water for the next days or week should bring that number down significantly.
This is my ppm chart for how I feed and check ppms.. I use a 4 day cycle of -nutrient mix- plain water - plain water - nutrient mix.. With a day or so in between waterings if needed. These are raw numbers for nutrients using RO water. If you're using tap water, you'll have to add the plain water ppms to this number to get your total ppms
clones / seeds -
week 1 - 140ppm / 0.2 ec
week 2 - 210ppm / 0.3 ec
veg
week 1 - 350ppm / 0.5 ec
week 2 - 420ppm / 0.7 ec
week 3 - 550-650 ppm / 0.8-0.9ec
bloom - transition
week 1 - 700ppm / 1.0 ec
week 2 - 800ppm / 1.1 ec
full bloom
weeks 3 - 5 (or more) - 800-900ppm / 1.2-1.3 ec
ripening (shock flushing)
15 days before flushing - 400-500ppm / 0.6-0.7 ec
flushing
15 days before harvest - 0-200ppm / 0.0-0.3 ec
My guess is that your ppms are in the 3000 range, if not higher.