New Grower New grower vast and vast auto

[Learninggrower]

Day 55. Looking good not much to say besides they are drinking about a gallon a day and I’m doing about half strength nuits with calmag and hydroguard.

 

[Learninggrower]

Day 56. Ok everything is starting to move along with the flowering. New problem now I just got my humidity reader and mines between 66-80 depending on the time of day. Do looks like I need to get a dehumidifier before mold or what not arises. Lol more money out of my pocket grrrr doing to put some white rice in there to try and combat it a little tell I get one

 

[Learninggrower]

Day 57. Got a small dehumidifier in the tent now hopefully that will help. Both are starting to flower more everyday. No sure how much longer each plant has left but the left is looking like a champ but the right looks like it’s going to give very little bit should be some for smoke but most probably for ether butter or oil. Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome.

 

[Learninggrower]

Day 59. Ok so the left plant has some yellow tips and the right has some yellow and browning leafs. I think it’s to much nuits so I cut them back even more. Hope that fixes the issue

 

[Boradan]

Just read through the journal. Nice going
I am also a new grower using DWC - doing my second grow now, both journals are in my sig.

Regarding ppm and some people having significantly higher readings than yours, they may be using a different ppm set.
The base read for ppm/tds is EC (electrical conductivity) - this is what TDS/ppm meters actually measure (you can see the 2 probes on the base of your TDS pen - the meters measure how much electric charge passes from one to the other) and they then convert this to ppm/tds.
Some meters use a 500 scale, where 500ppm = 1.0EC
Others use a 700 scale, where 700ppm = 1.0EC
Because of this, if you have a solution with 2.0EC, some meters will read that as 1000ppm and others will read it as 1400ppm.
Different plants have different needs (even ones from the same strain), so just use other peoples readings as a guide and not an instruction.
There is also a difference in ppms used between Hydro and soil grows (I think)

I came across an invaluable chart regarding pH/EC(ppm) and water level:

This chart has definitely saved my bacon on a boatload of occasions.

If you check out my journals (all hydro) you will see a few hiccups along the way and how I counteracted them.
I am now basically ignoring suggestions from the manufacturer regarding strength and, once I get dialed in, use the above chart as a guide as to whether or not I need to change my feed (in addition to checking the plant to ensure no other issues are occurring - Cal/Mag etc). I went with manufacturer suggested strength initially in this grow and it caused no end of issues - now all is rosy.

**NOTE**
I am only on my second grow, so feel free to ignore anything I say

 

[Learninggrower]

Just read through the journal. Nice going
I am also a new grower using DWC - doing my second grow now, both journals are in my sig.

Regarding ppm and some people having significantly higher readings than yours, they may be using a different ppm set.
The base read for ppm/tds is EC (electrical conductivity) - this is what TDS/ppm meters actually measure (you can see the 2 probes on the base of your TDS pen - the meters measure how much electric charge passes from one to the other) and they then convert this to ppm/tds.
Some meters use a 500 scale, where 500ppm = 1.0EC
Others use a 700 scale, where 700ppm = 1.0EC
Because of this, if you have a solution with 2.0EC, some meters will read that as 1000ppm and others will read it as 1400ppm.
Different plants have different needs (even ones from the same strain), so just use other peoples readings as a guide and not an instruction.
There is also a difference in ppms used between Hydro and soil grows (I think)

I came across an invaluable chart regarding pH/EC(ppm) and water level:
View attachment 918690
This chart has definitely saved my bacon on a boatload of occasions.

If you check out my journals (all hydro) you will see a few hiccups along the way and how I counteracted them.
I am now basically ignoring suggestions from the manufacturer regarding strength and, once I get dialed in, use the above chart as a guide as to whether or not I need to change my feed (in addition to checking the plant to ensure no other issues are occurring - Cal/Mag etc). I went with manufacturer suggested strength initially in this grow and it caused no end of issues - now all is rosy.

**NOTE**
I am only on my second grow, so feel free to ignore anything I say

Thanks for the visit and comment. Yes I’ve had a few ups and downs so far but nothing major luckily. The left plant hasn’t had any real issues at all so far but that right plant is a problem child. It’s super touchy to nutes and it’s just growing really tall with less colas than the left and they are the same strain lol. Just so long as the left plant makes it to the end I’ll be happy. If I complete this one with a successful harvest I’m going to try soil. I love dwc cause it’s seems pretty basic to me but soil is quiter and takes less electricity. I plan on learning and just keep on growing!

 

[Boradan]

Don't worry about the 2 plants being different.
You are growing from seed instead of clones, so your plants will ALWAYS be different, even if the same strain.
It's like trying to compare 2 sisters. Unless they are identical twins (or clones) there will always be differences between them.
Nothing to worry about.

 

[Learninggrower]

Day 60. Right plant looks worse and worse each day lol don’t know ignore I should cut my losses there or just let her go and see what happens happens. Left plant is chugging along

 

[NateNobody]

What's happening @Learninggrower? I haven't been able to check you out in a while.(new business) Whatever the problem the one plant is having, I would suggest that you just empty and sanitize the rez and then start over with your nutes. I have done dwc a few times. No matter what issues popped up, that always did the trick for me. Also, not sure what nute regimen you are using, but I went with a basic three part series (General. Hydroponics) in order to be able to adjust NPK myself. The first try was successful, but I listened to everybody saying I should be running at least 1200ppm at mid to late flower. The smoke was very harsh, even after flushing it. The next few runs, I started with a rez ppm of 350-400 for seedlings, and I NEVER went over 900ppm....even in late flower. Buds were very dense and frosty. You just have to know when/what to increase/decrease, and at what time. All fert companies have feed charts for their individual recommendations. I would just top out at maybe 75% of their suggested amount, but get there gradually.

If someone covered this already, I apologize. I have not had time to completely catch up. If you have any questions, pop over to my Killingfields or Toxic Blue and Girl Scout Cookies thread in my sig. Be glad to help you out any time. Hope this helps you brother. and to you.

 

[NateNobody]

One more thing. That is a great chart that @Boradan threw up. Easy to get set in your way of growing, especially if you have been having back to back great harvests with no issues. You can get kind of lazy, get mixed up, or just plain forget. Even for us seasoned growers, that is a good tool to have.