Need some advice/help

[Eyes on Fire]

well I have seen and done these things myself.I wasnt criticizing at all,just simply stating facts.just because a grower jumps off a bridge. . . LOL when someone says flush to you they ultimately dont understand the intricate balance of thing in a soil medium.especially organics! thats all,,we all have to start somewhere broham. I did years ago and have flushed.but to do it right is a rinse over a cpl days not a deluge of water all at once. thats an emergency type of thing.last ditch effort. its about prep and proper mixes with feeds ,but a soilid mix of medium(soil) will literally eliminate this need to do anything short of a week rinse or so at the end prior to harvest. Happy harvesting dude!

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

Ok then kill that plant and start over............. Just kidding. You are in a very difficult situation because without expensive lab equipment there is just no way to know the status of your soil. This is what I would do. Dig as much of the soil out of the pot as you can without damaging too much root structure and replace it with the same OF you started with especially on the top - do not add anything else except PHed to 6.5 - 6.8 aerated water (no chlorine) and 1/2 teaspoon of molasses (no sulphur type) in 2 gallons of water and only add the sugar once. The idea here is to replace the microbial colony and feed it sugar to multiply fast. Only water to slight or no runoff. The water will help distribute the new living colony. The plant should respond well in a few days although some damage from what has happened to this point may continue to show for a while. The new soil is going to be higher in N than ideal for bloom but at least there will be some balance.

A common first timer mistake is getting the available nutrients out of balance and then they chase the symptoms with additions that further the out of balance status. Soil chemistry is very complex. It is the living microbes in the soil that make the elemental salts (NPK) and minerals available for the plant to take up and use. Flushing them out just leads to more deficiencies. Learning how to nurture those microbes is more effective than feeding any of the thousands of nutrient mixtures out there as long as you are starting with good balanced living soil.

I have talked about balance and what I mean is call Liebig's Law of the minimum. It is a simple concept with far reaching effects.

I hope this helps. If it is any consolation I have killed many plants and even trees over the years. Some lessons are learned in the school of hard knocks!

Good luck

Leibigs Law visualized.

What is left out is the complex part, about the bio-chemical processes of nitrification, ammoniafication, minerilazation, fixation etc. That's what I love about this forum. There are so many experienced growers here that even though I have a lot of book knowledge and gardening experience I am constantly getting better through AFN support.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Leibigs Law visualized.

What is left out is the complex part, about the bio-chemical processes of nitrification, ammoniafication, minerilazation, fixation etc. That's what I love about this forum. There are so many experienced growers here that even though I have a lot of book knowledge and gardening experience I am constantly getting better through AFN support.

View attachment 837071

GG:

Yes, Leibig's Law is just one facet of hundreds of things contributing to soil management. The ecosystem of microbes and fungi is really the basis of making the elements in Liebig's "Barrel" available to the plants. You can buy and use all manner of microbial/fungal additives to enhance poor soil but when you pay big money for commercial soil you should not need these. In fact you should need nothing other than water - period. There are many growers on this forum that only use water for an entire grow and do so quite successfully. The problem is we have been brainwashed by all of the hype to the point that we believe we "NEED" all of these miracle nutrients to grow a weed. It is this additive activity that makes understanding the law of the minimum so important. For example we see a Cal-Mag deficiency on some leaves so we add Cal-Mag but the problem does not improve because we really needed manganese to allow the Cal-Mag that was there already to be taken up. Of course many times all we really needed was Cal-Mag and it works perfectly. My approach to this dilemma is to add everything in balance.

I have a bad back and cannot move containers of soil in/out of my grow space. I use to move Live Soil in and out from my organic vegetable garden. I went to hydro years ago and pumps do all of the heavy lifting now. Of all of the things I have learned about hydro PH and balance is key. That knowledge in turn has made me a better gardener outdoors!

Yes, I have fallen into the "snake oil trap" and to complicate matters further there are some additives that have proven themselves to improve harvest volume and quality. The only one I have personal experience with is Mammoth P. In two side by side grows I did the Mammoth P plants were better. Now this is a very small sample statistically but it is all I have. I am not going to use it in my current grow because I am already changing too many of the variables as I move to Dyna-Gro in my rockwool blocks. Follow my Wedding Cake grow and learn with me.

 

[Buzzybones]

Ok then kill that plant and start over............. Just kidding. You are in a very difficult situation because without expensive lab equipment there is just no way to know the status of your soil. This is what I would do. Dig as much of the soil out of the pot as you can without damaging too much root structure and replace it with the same OF you started with especially on the top - do not add anything else except PHed to 6.5 - 6.8 aerated water (no chlorine) and 1/2 teaspoon of molasses (no sulphur type) in 2 gallons of water and only add the sugar once. The idea here is to replace the microbial colony and feed it sugar to multiply fast. Only water to slight or no runoff. The water will help distribute the new living colony. The plant should respond well in a few days although some damage from what has happened to this point may continue to show for a while. The new soil is going to be higher in N than ideal for bloom but at least there will be some balance.

A common first timer mistake is getting the available nutrients out of balance and then they chase the symptoms with additions that further the out of balance status. Soil chemistry is very complex. It is the living microbes in the soil that make the elemental salts (NPK) and minerals available for the plant to take up and use. Flushing them out just leads to more deficiencies. Learning how to nurture those microbes is more effective than feeding any of the thousands of nutrient mixtures out there as long as you are starting with good balanced living soil.

I have talked about balance and what I mean is call Liebig's Law of the minimum. It is a simple concept with far reaching effects.

I hope this helps. If it is any consolation I have killed many plants and even trees over the years. Some lessons are learned in the school of hard knocks!

Good luck

Thanks for this info. I'll try this later tonight when I get home

 

[Waira]

Sorry Buzzy and Arthur.. missed the tag and have been busy elsewhere,....

Buzzy, I need whole plant pics in normal light please, to assess symptoms properly,... what I see looks Ca defc.on the bigger leaf, can't see the seedlings well enough to say yet,... Ca defc.will not correct in damaged leaves, you're looking for a halting of progression,... what's the soilless half of this soil mix? If it's coco, that explains the Ca issue in part,... Ca is poorly mobile within the plant, so a steady supply needs to be present for uptake,...
That soil meter is not to be trusted, but that and the run-off at least shows the soil is leaning too alkaline... BTW, straight run-off isn't an accurate in-pot measure either, a crude estimate at best... keep in mind, decimals matter especially when at the edge of acceptable soil pH... this is a logarithmic scale, meaning a +/- 1.0 jump is in fact a 10-fold increase/decrease in H+ content,.... (get an Accurate 8 soil pH probe, not that $, accurate enough at +/-0.2 resolution),.... pH your water to 6.4,... what's the source, tap? Do you have a pH and EC/TDS reading on it? Is it hard water..?
Flushing, the guys have covered,... don't do it in any soil/blend unless there's a critical issue that need immediate action to save the plant! Even then, it has to be done right, quickly, and drained as fast as possible,...

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thanks for this info. I'll try this later tonight when I get home

Buzzy:

It is Monday, are the plants looking better on the new growth?

 

[Buzzybones]

@Waira hey man thanks for stopping by again. And life has been super busy so I haven't gotten around the garden in a few days. Gf been checking on the girls while I'm away. I'll be back tomorrow: I don't have any picture updates atm. The soilless is coco. Ph on the tap comes out at 7.2-7.3. I let it sit for a few days and ph it down.

@Mañ'O'Green heard from gf. Stretching stopped about two weeks ago, but she said the browning is slowly spreading but not nearly as fast as we noticed. Said there was some brown spotting on a few sugar leaves. But then she also said the whole plant is turning a bright green/yellow

This plant might be cut short. Something came up and I'll be out of town for a week and a half. Sucks but I'll have to harvest next Friday which would be day 65. Probably just give straight water til then. Learn from this lol and pay more attention to my feedings and ph on my next two girls

 

[Waira]

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Waira hey man thanks for stopping by again. And life has been super busy so I haven't gotten around the garden in a few days. Gf been checking on the girls while I'm away. I'll be back tomorrow: I don't have any picture updates atm. The soilless is coco. Ph on the tap comes out at 7.2-7.3. I let it sit for a few days and ph it down.

@Mañ'O'Green heard from gf. Stretching stopped about two weeks ago, but she said the browning is slowly spreading but not nearly as fast as we noticed. Said there was some brown spotting on a few sugar leaves. But then she also said the whole plant is turning a bright green/yellow

This plant might be cut short. Something came up and I'll be out of town for a week and a half. Sucks but I'll have to harvest next Friday which would be day 65. Probably just give straight water til then. Learn from this lol and pay more attention to my feedings and ph on my next two girls

That plant might just be finishing. water it well and harvest when you get home; unless you don't feel safe leaving things on automatic while you are gone?

 

[Buzzybones]

Yea it sucks, but got a lot to learn

That plant might just be finishing. water it well and harvest when you get home; unless you don't feel safe leaving things on automatic while you are gone?

I thought about that but wasn't sure. Pots usually dry out after 2-3 days when watered with 1.5-2.5 gallons. I can give it a try and see what happens