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No problem, really my pleasure to follow your grows. I love seeing succesfull indoor organic grows to motivate me into going that way.
Thanks so much for passing by! I wish you could smell and taste it, and the frost is great! Hope the Deez Nugs turns out similar and with fruity flavors!
Speaking of the D.N., a couple of pics of it from today, at day 14:
bf80255
Head Breeder Humunya Seeds (Hoo-moo-nyah)
you do a smoke report on her yet?
Can you steer me in the direction of that schedule you're referring to? Thanks!UPDATE
Day 7 today. She was stretching a bit i believe, so i got the light down to 30 inches from 37 i had it initially. Stretching stopped and leaves started getting bigger but also brown spots started showing up around day 4 or 5. I watered on her fifth day with a stronger dose of CalMag (used 80 ppm to precharge the coco, but for the day 5 watering i increased to 100ppm), and AFTER seeing the spots, I have been doing foliar application of CalMag at 250 ppm before lights on. Only precharged de coco, and gave 1 watering on day 5, with 250 ppm of MC1 + 70 ppm tap... so with calmag she's gotten about 400-420 ppms... pH 6.0-6.3.
@bushmasterar15 what do you think? I'm following your schedule... should I wait until day 15 for the next watering? or considering the def symptoms should i water earlier? Or should I use more MC1 or calmag since I don't have many of your other ingredients?
Sorry, I know this is an old post, but I got a question...
My plants are just a little younger than yours. But your plant at day 35 look a heck of a lot bigger than mine does at just a week younger. I'm wondering if I have my LED (HLG 260xl) turned up too high. My autos are in week 4 and light is around 210 watts at 25 inches (started at about 130 watts at 30 inches and adjusted over seedling stage into veg). Looks like you were giving yours a whole lot less light with better results. I think I figured that as long as I wasn't burning them and they're kicking off healthy green leaves, then I can just give them as much light as they can handle. But seems like that might not be the case. Thoughts? Maybe next grow I scale back the wattage during veg? THANKS!!
Or maybe you answered that elsewhere in this thread and I need to keep reading...
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Yes, I did. Sugary leaves, which i usually trim wet to have something to try out in the vaporizer while i wait for buds to dry, smell like very sweet guava, but in the vape their flavor is a bit over-taken by leaf taste. Effects with just 3 tokes are very pleasant for daytime and manageable to do tasks.
On the other hand, I took one bottom-larfy bud the day I passed the harvest into jars and have been smoking that this whole week, and the first load of it in the vaporizer produces very very pleasant head high... a second load makes me struggle to keep my eyes open. This bud has really sweet and sometimes citrus flavors, but flavor was not the same guava taste from the sugary leaves, but still really nice… I feel it some times tastes like peaches, other times like passion fruit, but always first hit has this fresh-sweet-metalic taste that turns into sweet fruit flavors and lasts a whole lot of time.
What still remains of said larfy bud:
Sure no prob: https://www.autoflower.org/threads/bushmasterar15-another-grow.71106/page-2#post-2084006
If you have a journal or some pics, I wouldn't mind taking a look at it to give some better input, but what i would say right of the bat is that genetics play a great role on those aspects of vigor and size, but it seems in general with autos (specially from reputable breeders) you shouldn't underestimate them... as long as they look healthy and with all conditions dialed in, by weeks 4-6 they will explode in growth... what you are not seeing is the root development going on during the first weeks. So comparing an auto with another one a week younger won't tell you much because that week can really change your plant in incredible ways... just be patient and let them amaze you. If you have time, take a look at this other run i did of a Auto WWxBB: https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...r-under-budgetled-qb-or-single-autocob.73691/... she exploded in growth after day 27 and by the end was at least twice the size of my 24catx3bog you ask about, and was basically under exact same conditions and under same time frame... and she even had worse root rot. Point being again genetics are a huge factor, so don't worry just yet... just make sure to keep temps and humidity in check, and feed light and don't change to bloom nutes until buds are actually forming (about week 6 or 7).
And well... let me say I do what you do, too.. I like to compare my plants to other's plants to make sure i'm on right track... but i've learnt that you shouldn't expect them to be the same unless they are the same genetic and even then, conditions and phenotypes might just be a tad different in each person's grow so don't worry too much if they are smaller or different. And if you do compare them... a week's difference is not a fair comparison specially during those weeks from 4-6. Hope it helps.
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Appreciate the detailed response. Yeah, I guess I am right on the cusp of hopefully having a decent growth spurt (both plants started showing sex over the last 24-48 hours)...so I'll be patient, or try to be (that's always the toughest part of this for me!). Do you have any general thoughts on light distance/wattage at the various stages of growth? Or have you just done enough growing that you can read the plants a bit? Anyway, I'll check out your other grow too. And I'll get some pics uploaded in the next few days. Thanks for sharing some knowledge -- this board rocks!
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Oh, yeah.. patience is what growing will teach us all... not easy in these fast moving times though. And I'm a wordy person, so you'll have to be very patient with my answers
.And, no... I can't read plants yet to set light distance.... I wish i could... maybe during the seedling stage it's easier because stretching and plant leaning to look for light is quite evident at that point, but past that I feel completely clueless so i try to go by DLI numbers and research what distances others use.
BTW, I have friends who began growing with LEDs at the same time as I did and while they have been growing meeting optimum numbers in terms of lighting, I decided to use half of what they used so I could see the difference and also because when i used HPS lighting for my personal cannabis needs, I never found it necessary or easy to manage to produce big dense buds in my humid and very unstable RH conditions... so I liked using less watts of that kind of light and was happy with results. BUT doing this same thing with quality LEDs has -to my great delight- produced much better and even more buds than with HPS, and with Autos this also seems to be confirming what BigSm0 and others have said about the importance of DLI... you can use less watts or lower ppfd numbers as long as you meet certain minimums of DLI and get good quality herbs and in decent quantities... in my case I've been quite happy reaching DLIs of 15-20 (if i fill-up the whole the tent space and becuase i don't mind small fluffy buds) while having in mind that 35-40 DLI is the optimal without CO2 addition, and 40-65 with CO2.
Any how, my point of mentioning all this is that my freinds are in the 40-60's DLI range without CO2 and their plants are freaking healthy so I think that as long as leaf temps and RH are in check, there's no such thing as too much light after seedling stage has passed.
So, since I started with LEDs i've been trying to play with/use DLI which seems to be a very good way to determine lighting needs if you still can't read plants. I even invested in a quality PAR meter recently to kinda help with that since the manufacturer of my current tent light never provided PPFD numbers for my specific lamp.
If I had your lamp I'd contact HLG and ask them for PAR data on it if it's not already somewhere on their site, and use any online DLI calculator to estimate your DLI and go by that... and to know what DLI per stage... I've been using this chart which is based on Photoperiods but I just treat seedling stage as clone stage.
Ah, and yeah... these forums are the best! BTW, these forums have taught me that something that is also really really improtant is VPD... if you feel your plants are a bit slow and light is enough... temps and RH could be the reason. I started upping my temps and noticed better vigor... but didn't align temps with RH to meet proper VPD and have had some other issues but nothing that couldn't be fixed.
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Oh, yeah.. patience is what growing will teach us all... not easy in these fast moving times though. And I'm a wordy person, so you'll have to be very patient with my answers
And, no... I can't read plants yet to set light distance.... I wish i could... maybe during the seedling stage it's easier because stretching and plant leaning to look for light is quite evident at that point, but past that I feel completely clueless so i try to go by DLI numbers and research what distances others use.
BTW, I have friends who began growing with LEDs at the same time as I did and while they have been growing meeting optimum numbers in terms of lighting, I decided to use half of what they used so I could see the difference and also because when i used HPS lighting or my personal cannabis needs, I never found it necessary or easy to manage to produce big dense buds in my humid and very unstable RH conditions... so I liked using less watts of that kind of light and was happy with results. BUT doing this same thing with quality LEDs has -to my great delight- produced much better and even more buds than with HPS, and with Autos this also seems to be confirming what BigSm0 and others have said about the importance of DLI... you can use less watts or lower ppfd numbers as long as you meet certain minimums of DLI and get good quality herbs and in decent quantities... in my case I've been quite happy reaching DLIs of 15-20 (if i fill-up the whole the tent space and becuase i don't mind small fluffy buds) while having in mind that 35-40 DLI is the optimal without CO2 addition, and 40-65 with CO2.
Any how, my point of mentioning all this is that my freinds are in the 40-60's DLI range without CO2 and their plants are freaking healthy so I think that as long as leaf temps and RH are in check, there's no such thing as too much light after seedling stage has passed.
So, since I started with LEDs i've been trying to play with/use DLI which seems to be a very good way to determine lighting needs if you still can't read plants. I even invested in a quality PAR meter recently to kinda help with that since the manufacturer of my current tent light never provided PPFD numbers for my specific lamp.
If I had your lamp I'd contact HLG and ask them for PAR data on it if it's not already somewhere on their site, and use any online DLI calculator to estimate your DLI and go by that... and to know what DLI per stage... I've been using this chart which is based on Photoperiods but I just treat seedling stage as clone stage.
Ah, and yeah... these forums are the best! BTW, these forums have taught me that something that is also really really improtant is VPD... if you feel your plants are a bit slow and light is enough... temps and RH could be the reason. I started upping my temps and noticed better vigor..but didn't align temps with RH to meet proper VPD and have had some toher issues but nothing that couldn't be fixed.
I'm going to reach out to HLG right now. Thanks a bunch -- this has been awesome
bf80255
Head Breeder Humunya Seeds (Hoo-moo-nyah)
SHEEEEESHHH!!!! winner winner nuggie dinner! lol
thats a fuckin knockout right there man, great yield, frosty af and I loooove fruity/tropical terps!!!
good shit
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