Grow Room Ljufmennid cabinet grow // LED - CFL - DWC //

[GoAuto6]

take your hinge line it up with the edge of the location like here on this line



.. putting the barrel out, then trace around the hinge.... I suggest after tracing use a utility knife to cut along the pencil line be careful not to over cut The corners and to cut as deep a needed per the hinge...Then nice and easy with the angle edge down........ slowly work to the depth of the hinge..

 

[Another One Bites the Dust1]

I suggest after tracing use a utility knife to cut along the pencil line be careful not to over cut The corners and to cut as deep a needed per the hinge...Then nice and easy with the angle edge down........ slowly work to the depth of the hinge..

Good call A6, yea been so long since I have done it, using a utility knife is a certainly the way to go.. And yes SLOWLY....And I am sure this is a no brainer, but always go WITH the grain with the chisel.

 

[Feenix]

Brilliant thanks, should I chisel the doors first, fit hinges and then make a stave to mark out where door will fit on the cabinet ?

I am just so sure I will fuck this up, I design the cabinet it self to allow tremendous amount of error but not the door or at least not the hinges

I bet you don't screw it up. You have done a pretty clean job of it so far.

One sure fire stealth is a last resort kill switch that shuts it all down.
It won't bother autos for the short time a stranger is likely to be there. A LEO is another story. Its hard to fool a trained nose. I keep a small bag of buds in a drawer by the front door to leave open on the table if the wrong type shows up on camera, better to take a ticket for a few grams in hopes of flooding his smell senses right off the bat. If he's convinced that you just buy good weed he will probably stop there, if not, his nose is acclimated to the smell already.
If he's there, a smell probably brought him through a neighbor complaint. We smokers don't fool non smokers as much as we may think we do but are usually tolerated if we are good neighbors.
Then there is the neighbor from hell like mine.:Sharing One:

 

[Bigolnoob]

Ya doors are a bitch.. Light sealing is even harder if that is what you are going for. Cabinet locks work well with 3M foam tape because you can always bend the lock spade to make a tighter fit. Warning however, in this type of environment, you need to replace foam tape due to degradation because of heat and moisture. But it's an EZ fix.

 

[ljufmennid]

Good call A6, yea been so long since I have done it, using a utility knife is a certainly the way to go.. And yes SLOWLY....And I am sure this is a no brainer, but always go WITH the grain with the chisel.

thanks yeah I I am going slowly as possible, already fitted the lock and it looks good

I bet you don't screw it up. You have done a pretty clean job of it so far.

One sure fire stealth is a last resort kill switch that shuts it all down.
It won't bother autos for the short time a stranger is likely to be there. A LEO is another story. Its hard to fool a trained nose. I keep a small bag of buds in a drawer by the front door to leave open on the table if the wrong type shows up on camera, better to take a ticket for a few grams in hopes of flooding his smell senses right off the bat. If he's convinced that you just buy good weed he will probably stop there, if not, his nose is acclimated to the smell already.
If he's there, a smell probably brought him through a neighbor complaint. We smokers don't fool non smokers as much as we may think we do but are usually tolerated if we are good neighbors.
Then there is the neighbor from hell like mine.:Sharing One:

Yeah I got a kill switch for the setup and no idea about the neighboors, they seam nice but the country I am in have some serious cannabis haters that I am even to afraid to mention the name of it

Overbuilt a bit!
As for your exhaust muffler. try a bit of that eggcrate foam in the exhaust tube. you can put it in long wise (all the way through)
and not significantly effect the discharge but it will absorb a lot of sound.
Rubber fatigue pads, they sell for standing on in shops and such, make a great vibration dampner as well.
And an aquarium on top of the cabinet will work perfectly as an explanation for the cab.

PS one of the best things I did to hide noise on my cabinet was putting a 30 gallon aquarium on it.
It dampens it significantly with just the added weight of the water, but also even a simple waterfall filter provides enough noise to provide cover for any background noise of your cabinet.
I have always found the burbling to be soothing

hehe yeah I over build because this is like my first serious carpeting job so I actually calculated failure into the design, so thicker support and a very thick back plywood board and sides, I also got the eggcrate foam inside the tubes and adding a 12 liter aquarium on top of the cabinet

its been the plan from start as I been sketching and re-sketching this cabinet for nearly a year now

take your hinge line it up with the edge of the location like here on this line

View attachment 405772

.. putting the barrel out, then trace around the hinge.... I suggest after tracing use a utility knife to cut along the pencil line be careful not to over cut The corners and to cut as deep a needed per the hinge...Then nice and easy with the angle edge down........ slowly work to the depth of the hinge..

thanks for the tips, I be doing this in about an hour or two
was going to do this yesterday but to tired and spend the evening watching wood shop videos on youtube to pick up some tips but very irritating that everyone was just using rotary drill

Ya doors are a bitch.. Light sealing is even harder if that is what you are going for. Cabinet locks work well with 3M foam tape because you can always bend the lock spade to make a tighter fit. Warning however, in this type of environment, you need to replace foam tape due to degradation because of heat and moisture. But it's an EZ fix.

yeah actually going with a 3 cm thick foam



but thanks yo all for the great tips and help !!! :clap:

 

[Feenix]

Ya doors are a bitch.. Light sealing is even harder if that is what you are going for. Cabinet locks work well with 3M foam tape because you can always bend the lock spade to make a tighter fit. Warning however, in this type of environment, you need to replace foam tape due to degradation because of heat and moisture. But it's an EZ fix.

To help with a fussy tight seal, if needed, Eye hooks on the inside of the edge of the door and corresponding ones aligned at the back of the cab will let you use bungees on the inside to pull it tight. Go high and low enough so they and the plants don't interfere with each other. A small inconvenience to have to hook and unhook them with the door held ajar but they will deal with the slight warping that sometimes comes with or develops in over the counter lumber. The latches seal the centers.. Yes you could just use additional latches but as the wood reacts to the moisture generated they can become mis-aligned over time.The simple flexibility of Bungees will allow for that.

 

[ljufmennid]

To help with a fussy tight seal, if needed, Eye hooks on the inside of the edge of the door and corresponding ones aligned at the back of the cab will let you use bungees on the inside to pull it tight. Go high and low enough so they and the plants don't interfere with each other. A small inconvenience to have to hook and unhook them with the door held ajar but they will deal with the slight warping that sometimes comes with or develops in over the counter lumber. The latches seal the centers.. Yes you could just use additional latches but as the wood reacts to the moisture generated they can become mis-aligned over time.The simple flexibility of Bungees will allow for that.

That is actually a really nice idea but I went with water prove MDF for the light shield behind the door and the whole inside is covered with white/black mylar then I got two pin latches top and bottom off the door and the light shield has 3 cm/ 1,2 inch thick soft foam that is pushed in 1,5 cm or half the way when the latches hook up and then I can lock the door

when the light shield starts to give because of age .... and mostly wrong size screws ... I might go with rubber bands or actually new water prove mdf and actually water prove where I sawed them also

 

[Another One Bites the Dust1]

You my friend deserve some rep+ points for your great work!

Peace.

 

[ljufmennid]

To help with a fussy tight seal, if needed, Eye hooks on the inside of the edge of the door and corresponding ones aligned at the back of the cab will let you use bungees on the inside to pull it tight. Go high and low enough so they and the plants don't interfere with each other. A small inconvenience to have to hook and unhook them with the door held ajar but they will deal with the slight warping that sometimes comes with or develops in over the counter lumber. The latches seal the centers.. Yes you could just use additional latches but as the wood reacts to the moisture generated they can become mis-aligned over time.The simple flexibility of Bungees will allow for that.

I actually went kind of with your eye-hook because the latches were being a pain in the arse

I will update tonight or tomorrow depending on how lazy I feel tonight

 

[ljufmennid]

Update nr. 4 - day 15 from sprouting - Polarlight#3

Finally my plant is home in its micro cabinet

Its about 95% done and what is left is to short out the vibration, get new fans for my LED light and figure out the best place to keep the air pump and yeah it has to be inside the cabinet

Anyone here figured out the best way to get rid of the vibration from the airstones/airpump ?

But here it is finally ! :dance:



I manage to get it 99,99% light proved and sucking in air so I can see the filter over the bottom intake getting sucked in


The cabinet is a bit of a mess as I am shorting out some details like placement for the air pump, thinking about making a tiny wooden table for it so it can sit right about the water line but right about the intake vent also to get the coldest air, I also been wondering about wrapping my DWC tote in either mylar or silver tape because black is maybe not the best color when it comes to heat problems but I will short all of this in the coming week and also make it tighty and nice, I was just totally sick of working on this in the afternoon and wanted a break, what I want to do is wrap the fan box in white mylar, fix nails for the cables but now I just needed to see were I would lead all of them first and then work on holders for them

also if anyone can notice then my "water meter" tube is actually black non-see through plastic, I bought a clear one I am going to install into the other tote that I will be mixing a new res. into tomorrow with the cannazym that I needed to buy and finally spend the extra penny, dont think I could use rain water without it and dont think I would get the results I want either



the plant has been in the living room for 24-28 hours instead of the terrible kitchen cabinet and looked MUCH better after that, hope she keeps improving inside the new cabinet as the air exchange is superb !!! ... right now the PPM is around 400 and water 19-20 c°, lets see what the thermostat says tomorrow after spending the night in the box, I am trying to keep it closed at all times so I can get the best reading



I watched the Dutch passion time laps of the Polar light over and over again, amazing videos and the amount of professionalism and positive reviews was the reason I chose the company, right now mine has just broke the 2 week mark and looking pretty good, very little room between notes/branches but I have no idea what to expect from an AUTO anyway so I am hoping to get some tips and answers from the people of this forum to tell me if that is good or bad, but I am sure she is going to look very different next Sunday after getting a better mix of nut. better light and TRILLION times better air exchange



that is just an 12,5 cm wide plastic air vent with egg crate sound absorbing foam on the inside and works amazing, to bad I fucked up the measurment and also chanced the design half way though so I am missing the last 90° bend that is suppose to come there but as I am sick of spending more money on this it is going to stay like this until spring, the LED light is though getting some new fans because I would have to look high and low to find as LOUD fucking 80mm fans that came with it but for 100 bucks and the inside of the lights are well made and sports good reviews I am happy, this is basically just a 300w (180w) Mars hydro light that now I am worried is just a 90 W light .... :slaps: ... not sure if I want to even measure it, better just to live in denial until I buy a really good LED in the future, I plan on building a little box outside the cabinet to house the fan to safe space inside the cabinet instead of trying to fit all in such a small space



So next Sunday its going to be much cleaner inside and I have fixed the small issues that I am basically just to lazy to fix, I still have half my Christmas shopping left including painting a picture for my GF in secret, I promised her last xmas but ended up buying something instead because I am a prick

But please people ... come and comment, tell me what you think and any ideas or advice are really well taken even though sometimes I dont listen until I fucked up royal :smoke:

Thanks for reading and pass the dutchie on the left hand side
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