I was deemed by the locals to be kama‘aina. One of the first times I ever went to the west side of the island, I helped this old guy with some car problems and got his car running again pretty quickly. He turned out to be an old time long board surfer. He helped me with my surfing and even gave me one of his old long boards. It was a bit rough but after I went through it and fixed it back up it was quite a good board. It was huge though! But everybody knew who's bored it was. By the time I had left the island he had passed away and I gave the board to his grandson. Lots of good times there !Easy Was standing on the cliff and the beach there this week last year. Not so easy! Cold water is good! Controls the lineup population. That was one of the good things in Northern Cal. Water is 55 in the summer and 53 in the winter. Between that and the great whites, it keeps all the wuss' out of the water!
Makaha is nice though. Just don't piss off the locals!!! Houlie!
I hate cold, Winter and I especially hate cold waters! The only time I want to wear a wetsuit is when I'm diving, not surfing!